#6 Cylinder at 70psi. Losing Coolant. Burnt spark plug
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#6 Cylinder at 70psi. Losing Coolant. Burnt spark plug
95 4Runner SR5 4X4 185k. Did a compression test today. #6 came out to be 70 psi. The spark plug was dark brown, and I've been losing coolant little by little over time....oil as well. So head gasket is gone and a burnt valve??Do I buy a new, or re-built head to fix this problem? Or would it be cheaper to take it to a shop to have it repaired (the head)? I can do this work myself. The question is do I really want to. There is just so many steps just to getting the thing off! I don't want to keep it...just get it back up to par for whomever buys it from me.
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lots of info on a blown HG. you could spend hrs searching and reading.
its a 4-5 banana wrench job. you need more than the avg skils and a complete set of good tools to do the job yourself (ive done it)
its a 4-5 banana wrench job. you need more than the avg skils and a complete set of good tools to do the job yourself (ive done it)
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Got the skills...got the tools. Just don't know if I want to tackle this job if I just want to sell it in the end. Should I put a new head on or have mine checked out and fixed. If it's only #6, I would think that would be pretty easy to fix? and cheaper?
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Sounds like you have a little know-how skills. I would reccomend getting a book for the little stuff you may skip over, and simply for torque specs, and tightening sequences.
Take the head to you local machine shop, and have it preasure checked. Mine charges $16. This will tell you if it is cracked or warped. If it is warped, have them mill it. They should know the specs on how far is too far, but keep it too the least possible, deffinetely not anymore than say.... .020 in. (twenty thousandths).
If it is cracked obviously it will need to be replaced. Some people will say to buy a reman. and some will tell you to pull one from a yard, and rebuild it.
My local shop, who does all of my work, charges $16 for a preasure check, roughly $35-$40 for a mill. And about $60 for a valve job, not including parts.
Take the head to you local machine shop, and have it preasure checked. Mine charges $16. This will tell you if it is cracked or warped. If it is warped, have them mill it. They should know the specs on how far is too far, but keep it too the least possible, deffinetely not anymore than say.... .020 in. (twenty thousandths).
If it is cracked obviously it will need to be replaced. Some people will say to buy a reman. and some will tell you to pull one from a yard, and rebuild it.
My local shop, who does all of my work, charges $16 for a preasure check, roughly $35-$40 for a mill. And about $60 for a valve job, not including parts.
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Oh, and something obviouse but almost always skipped over.
I highly reccomend taking alot of pics of your engine compartment, and labeling Everything. I use masking tape for lables. Use small plastic baggies to keep bolts organized and lable where they belong.
I highly reccomend taking alot of pics of your engine compartment, and labeling Everything. I use masking tape for lables. Use small plastic baggies to keep bolts organized and lable where they belong.
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Sounds good. Don't you love digital cameras? So I would be fine replacing the one head, but not the other, performance wise, or is it good practice just to rplace both heads? How many more miles will the bottom end hold out...say oil pump, rings, bearings? All the other cylinders were at 180psi.
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Is it necessary to put the engine at Top Dead Center before you get to taking off the heads? Do you know how much it would cost to have all six injectors cleaned, or rebuilt? Thanks,Brian
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