Got my motor out and now have two good 3.0 motors. Was going to put one back in but have been looking at swaps lately. If I got a 5uz with harness and ecu what else would I need. The 3.o is the slowest thing i have ever driven. I was looking at the 2jz swap put the cost drove me away for now. Any help in this matter is appreciated.

 

Im guessing that you are talking about a 5vz. Check out this part of yota tech and read up.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/

 

Ok i was confused with the 1uz. I dont think I would swap out a v6 for another v6 unless it was forced induction. For a forced induction 5vz it would be worth It to just buy a 2jz motor instead for what 1500 bucks turbo's and all. A 2jz would get better fuel economy as well since it averaged over 20 mpg in a 36=3800lb car. Sorry for the confusion

 

5vz is a HUGE improvement over the 3.slo and from what I hear, a fairly easy swap.

 

Lexus 4.0

 

I wouldn't claim the 3.4 is the best swap above all others... but there is no comparison between the 5VZ-FE and the 3VZ-FE.

No comparison.

Plus as others have stated the 5VZ basically just drops in, uses the same tranny and requires minimal wiring.

 

The 3.0 to 3.4 swap has no equal for ease of installation. You need to pull your oilpan, dipstick, and oil pick up from your 3.0 and swap them on to the 3.4. Use the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate from the 3.4 and the throwout bearing from the 3.0 (assuming 5 speed swap). Bolt the old motor mounts from the 3.0 to the 3.4, drop the whole assembly in. Route your fuel line from the passenger side to the driver's side (I spliced the two lines together using a high pressure connector), relocate the battery tray over to the driver's side.

Wiring: use the two plugs under the dash and splice the old connector to the 3.4 harness, matching up the wires that have the same function. This is the hardest part, but you can buy a complete harness from Offroad Solutions. I'm too cheap. Swap the alternator from your 3.0 to the 3.4 and plug it in to the old harness.

There are a few other things you'll have to do, like wiring a small resistor to the back of your tachometer, but all these have been documented many times. One of the better ones I've found in Andy Zook's website, www.andrewzook.com.

Any questions, feel free to ask.