I was under the impression you on;y had to shim if you were using low profile stops on the droop stops. Something I have seen people do before adding BJ spacers. Again not sure if 4crawler references the diff drop or not. I am inclined to say his page doesn't and only having low profile stops in the droops.

Check out his page and you will see what I mean. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...owTo.shtml#4WD

 

i have read most of 4crawler stuff. its where i got my kit from. anyways why replace factory bump stops with low pros to shim them back to where the factory ones where lol
he says you might need to shim the factory ones if they bind unless you get the diff drop kit.

im sure you can get a little more droop with shim low pros if you do some test with it lifted up and shim just enough to prevent binding but who knows if this will be less than stock??

 

He's not saying to put low profile stops in and then shim, I think it's for people who might have had low profile stops in before hand. And I tell you what if I don't get BJ spacers soon I am going that route first since I lost a ton of droop by cranking my t-bars. I will be sure to keep those stops around though to throw back in once I get spacers.

He does say add about 1/2" worth of shim in, not sure what the thickness difference is between both though.

But regardless it's not the O.P.'s problems. Unless that kit is similar to how the old rancho arms were. It appears though that his is factory upper control arms.

 

aww, got me again lol i think you should get the BJ spacer, diff drop and dont forget the sway bar drop kit if you still have them. you will get a better ride and the lift you want still. plus you can run low pros on the up travel and not worry bout droop.

 

That's the way I wanna go, but $$$$ lol.

 

true, than you will need longer stocks as well. its worth it tho lol

 

Thanks for the info. The BJ spacers were something the PO installed so I never really researched it. It seems that the diff drop does address the low profile bump stops as its recommended either diff drop or bump stop shims to help with CV angle. I have the other ones that are about 1" tall just in case.

I'm going wheeling this weekend and I'll bring the taller set along just in case I feel a bind from droop. Its an easy install at least.

Again, great info and I appreciate it.

 

you wont feel the bind. it will bind but the power will over coming it and break the cv axle. the only way to safely test for a bind is to jack up the front end so its at full droop and turn the wheel to feel for binds

 

Thanks. Its already added to the pre-wheeling prep list.

 

that's what i was going to suggest too. check for bind before you go out again, with the front end off the ground. check the CV axle angles at full droop, which is when you're reporting the breaks occur.

turn the wheels by hand. use a second floor jack to lift the control arms if you want to watch it while you compress it. your bump stops may need modification to limit up/down travel and stay within the CV's tolerance.

once you know your bump stops are keeping your axles within their safe range of motion, then you can go wheel, and see if you break something. THEN you can determine if it's a low quality part that's failing, or if it's your driving that's too aggressive for conditions.

good luck.

 

good idea, ill try that out

 

so, I went wheeling this weekend with the "new" axle from oreilly instead of a reman. The axle didn't break when I hopped it over a bunch of rocks, but the lift bracket that holds the front differential to the frame mount bent. Now the differential is tilted up by the pinion and I am having trouble figuring out how to get it back down straight. I may have dropped it on a rock or something, so it looks like skidplates are in order. But the front CV axle didn't break.

 

With all the stuff that is breaking I would consider less right foot when wheeling. Without a lift that's grossly installed wrong, parts just don't break like on yours.