Duffdog

Hiya

So I have an 87 4runner with a 5" lift and locker in the front on 33's that keeps breaking the cv axles every time I put it in 4wd. Sometimes its the inner cup that blows up, sometimes the outer cub blows and sprays grease all over everything and twice, the inner axle twisted itself out of the cup and bent the steel on the cup so much I couldn't get it back in. All 5 times it was the driver side that broke, never the passenger side.

Granted, these are remanufactured Oreilly auto parts axles. My question is this: are the factory axles much stronger than these? I took out my original factory axles when I rebuilt my diff and added a locker and gears because one looked very rusted out and was full of dirt and the other was completely missing the boot.

I'm going wheeling this weekend, so I put in a "new" masterpro axle from oreilly. I guess I'm wondering if I should take an extra factory axle with me just in case.

What is everyones experience with this? Any upgraded axles out there? U-joint conversions etc?

xxxtreme22r

By putting it in 4wd do you mean breaking because your wheeling them and flexing them out? and is 4" of that 5" lift include a bracket lift?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

toyota cv axles have treated me well for years. That being said i never ran a locker in the front. i broke several of the auto parts store axles but never broke a toyota cv axle. I would think your driving style would need to be changed as well. Are you running a selectable locker or full time? or lunch box locker? I would think a selectable locker would be the best choice with cv's and ifs. Factory axles are the best in my opinion and well worth the money. I don't remember but can't you adjust the steering stops on the ifs trucks? I know you can on the solid axle rigs. If you can that would be something to look into as the driver's side is giving you trouble. If you're going through cv axles that fast it might be time to look into either upgrading to rcv axles $$$ or sas'ing your rig$$$ Tech tim on here is testing out some super tough cv axles and they seem to hold up well from what he has said. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f37/...k-peak-217626/ Have you changed out the bump stops, checked for binding of the axles while articulating the suspension?

Duffdog

I only put it in 4wd when I wheel. So everytime I go wheeling it breaks on a large obstacle/rock etc.

I actually have the old 6" lift from superlift. So its a 5" bracket lift with the torsion bars uncranked, so its only 5 instead of 6.

xxxtreme22r

Do you have the bump stop extensions in?

BC-Luc

I ran an Aussie in the front with no issues for several years, Toy CV's. I'd bring a spare just do to your braking spree. However, something more is going on. How long have you been running a locker in the front? Spinning wheels?

ttrmike

RCV axles

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-axles-226124/

Duffdog

I do not. The axles only break when at full droop, so I doubt that has anything to do with it.

As for driving style, I pretty much just point the wheels straight ahead and gas it. What else are you supposed to do when stuck on a rock?

(seriously, I don't really know how to wheel an IFS on the rocks. They don't articulate like my SAS rig, so I'm not sure what other people do with the IFS when stuck)

I have had the locker in for about 8 months, just recently I started doing things like going over rocks. Before it was just dirt.

xxxtreme22r

your not running ball joint spacers are ya? If so a ball joint spaced truck when running low profile bump stops might have issues with lockers and full droop. When stuck and in 4 lo 1st I only give it enough gas to make it move and it's more of a blip the throttle type thing. Or I back it up blip the throttle and bounce over. I hardly ever go above half throttle. But then again I'm not locked at all either. And pretty much stock on 33's.

ToyoTech559

post some pictures of the front end

Shoua

I second this.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

me too pics would be fun. kinda curious as to how, why and when the axles are drooping/binding. Post some pics of your set up. the 5" suspension lift is most likely your problem. Personally i like a stock or small lift on an ifs truck for wheeling with 33's. obviously this is just speculation as i'm sure you're not taking off a bracket lift to lower the truck.

Short answer to your question originally posted? Toyota cv axles are better, you need to change your lower bump stops to limit down travel, and you do need to modify your driving style when wheeling an ifs truck. If you upgrade the cv axles the next week link will be the front diff. Ask mudhippy on here i beleive he's broken one or two at the flange.

angrybob

This interests me a lot. I have 1.5" BJ spacers but also a 1" diff drop so my CV angle is not too bad. I have a Lockright up front with low profile bump stops, 33's and 4.88 gears. I have a new front diff with an ARB that I'm going to install in the next couple of weeks now that the AZ summer heat has cracked for good. The more info the better

Is it just at full droop or full droop plus axle load or full droop plus wheel spin that causes problems?

Couldn't agree more. Not to be douche, but I think adding some finesse to your driving style will most likely fix your problem if your CV's are not at an angle (from the lift) beyond proper function.

I installed a 4.7 gear set in my t-case and it was probably the best thing I have done to reduce the abuse to the hard parts of my rig. With the stock gear set, I would have to *bump* up and over bigger obstacles, but even then never just gassed it. Use just enough throttle to get the front end lifted up and over. Wheel spin followed by abrupt traction breaks axles. The 4.7 gear set now allows me use the further gear reduction / torque to lug right over the big stuff.

BACK UP. Seriously. Stop, back up and try a different line. If you are high centered, get the hi-lift out and stack some rocks. Way cheaper and less time consuming than changing axles every run.

Mine is also an '87 with the PO replacing the CV's with aftermarket units (I am guessing). I've not popped one in a year and a half of ownership and lots of rock crawling.

Duffdog

Heres a few pics from my bumper build. Only difference is that I have aftermarket front axles now. If I can find the right driver for my phone I will get a pic of the axle popped out while still bolted to the truck.

No ball joint spacers, just the factory upper bumpstops.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...s-pics-220756/

angrybob

The CV's don't appear to me to be at that bad of an angle. I am really curious now of the full droop being the problem. It would be interesting to get a pic next time you are out wheeling to get a pic at full droop if possible...you know..for the science of it

Duffdog

no problem,

I'm going this weekend, Ill be sure to get some kind of pics, unless my axle breaks before I can do that.

Has anyone tried to convert the cv axles into u-joint axles before? Seems like they would be way stronger.

xxxtreme22r

angrybob, if you look at 4crawlers write up on the ball joint spacers you will see he mentions the use of shims in those bump stops due to binding in the axles. And the bumpstops that are shimmed show the droops stops.

ToyoTech559

i dont think he needs to shim his bump stops as he never increased his droop.

xxxtreme22r

My last post was more towards angrybob then the O.P. I can't remember if 4crawler mentions the diff drop in his page or not.

ToyoTech559

woops, i missed that part sorry. i have 1.5 bj spacers and 1 inch diff drop. you dont need to shim your bump stops. you only need to if you dont want to do the diff drop but why would i wanna limit my droop. IFS already has poor flex, i dont want to make it worst lol. so the diff drop is worth it imo

oh i only have low pro bump stops for up travel and not on the droop because even with the 1 inch diff drop, i didnt want to risk it lol