Alright...I'll buy that for a dollar!!!
That gives me an idea...the intake I just got doesn't sit right, it hits the hook on the side of the head and is a bit short. If it's move it to the other side I don't have to worry about building a pipe stretcher to make it fit. I's about 5" too short.

 

Shorter run, cooler air (factory tube runs over the HOT rad.), and coll factor. There's a noticeable difference in power...and albeit more with the Supra AFM

My Batt/Intake swap



/threadjack


Edit: wow, i'm slow, dang fast typers and slow photobucket

 

I'm going to be making some calls tomorrow looking for the AFM and making the swap will give me a good weekend project next weekend. It'll go well with my exhaust enlargement project. The little lady has things for me this weekend. I gotta keep her happy or I can't play. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy!!!

 

I have to hand the credit to Junkers88. I haven't even done this mod yet, once I'm done my uni term and back at work full time.

 

I Think I'm going to swap the bat and intake, like I said I don't like how it is sitting now anyway. I'll have to see what I can fine in AFM though. I do have quite a few resting grounds near me. If I find more than 1 anyone interested...if?

 

Junkers: That 4 gauge running across the radiator. Whats it for? Stereo?

EDIT: Guessing its part of the Big 3 mod from when you swapped the battery/airbox?

 

Ah dude, I thought you had it all put together now!! Sorry! I do want to report that there is a noticable difference, but that's another thread about AFM's.


You know it!!! LOL!!

 

Hey Junkers, nice to see you are keeping the 4Runner. The whole take the top off coolness factor did it for you huh? Anyways, I appreciate the write up you did for the supra mod initially, it made doing the supra swap a piece of cake. Pic included, so it happened.... But when I picked up my 4Runner in January, I had an idle problem, but mine was the reverse of yours, My IACV was stuck closed, so it would idle at about 500 rpms until it warmed up, then went to its normal 750. If your idle comes down to normal, then its just a matter of adjustment. I had to do it twice, I adjusted it too high the first time, so I just wasted some antifreeze and an hour or so of my time. Good luck, and I would like to see some pics of the Runner!

 

That cable is the + on the battery. I'm having a hard time finding a cablt that size that's 7 feet long so I can route it around the back of the engine compartment.

I don't do stereo stuff anymore and am actually trying to find a factory 89 radio to put into the 4runner. I think thieves will look somewhere else when they see the 20 year old tape player I want to install.

 

Yeah being able to go topless is a big plus for me. That and the ability to sleep in the rear and not freeze to death, as well as being able to haul more than one person, really helped lean me in the direction of the 4runner. Of course it's going to need more work than the truck ever did but so far I'm still under budget and about 800$ under what I paid for the pickup to begin with.

Thanks for the info on the IACV. I know for a fact that Toyota didnt' design the 22re to idle at 2100 rpms when it's cold and finally found some stuff that indicated that's the place to start looking. I'm hoping to get it done this Saturday along with the bumper mods, although since my freaking drivers side door handle snapped off on the inside this morning getting ready for work I might be fighting with that instead of what I want to do.


It never really ends with these things.

 

I'm assuming that you all know this already, those AFM are hard to come by. I called about 10 places today and to no avail. I was told I could get a new one for about 600 or so. I don't need one that bad...I'll just wait for a bit, I have other things to play with for now.

 

Go to any car audio store. They have rolls from 16ga all the way to 0ga and they sell it by the foot.

 

Believe me, I know..........

 

Wow, I must have gotten lucky. I found a guy on craigslist parting out an 82 Supra first time I checked. Got it for 20 bucks!! But I guess I haven't seen one since. I will keep a look out for others so I can pass them on.

A couple junkyards around here wanted $150 for one. I guess they think the mod bug makes us stupid with money.

Junkers, congrats on staying under budget. I was over budget when I bought it. But It looks pretty good after redoing most of the interior panels. Sounds like you have some work ahead of you.

Oh yeah, almost forgot, idled at 500, adjusted, idled at 2100, fixed again, now starts up at 1500. Hope it goes easier for you.

 

Hey I was troubles too and I went thru and internet junkyard search hoohah thingy and I got three hits and I went with best deal. So, I would try that too.

 

Dang, of all the luck. If you are wanting those parts, I guess Washington is chock full of em.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/1090832495.html This one includes an LCE Big Bore throttle Body!! Damn, if I wouldn't be killed by my wife I would go get it for myself.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/1090198962.html Don't know how much they want for it.

If either of you guys want these and neither guy will ship it, let me know I will go pick em up and ship em to you for actual shipping costs... Thanks

 

Wouldn't mind that LCE set up but that 100$ is already going towards my spare tire carrier build. I wasn't kidding when I said I was going to build this one on a budget. I raided the couch cushions yesterday for the 3 bucks I needed to buy the butt connectors to swap over the mod.

Hey on that IACV when you made the adjustments did you screw the adjuster in or out? I'm guessing it's like the idle adjustment screw in that farther in eguates to lower rpms.

Oh and any advice on fixing the interior door handles? So far the drivers side door won't open from the outside and the passenger side door won't open from inside. My list for this weekend keeps getting longer.

 

What I would do, and you've probably all ready thought of this, would be to take apart the door panels and see how the darn thing works. It could be as simple as something just fell out. It sounds like a linkage thing to me...

 

That's the plan so far but I like to ask for advice before diving into something. This morning when I pulled the handle I heard something fall to the bottom of the door, same thing on the passenger side. I'm thinking the linkage clip (if it's similar to an International) worked loose and fell off.

 

I had something similar on an 82 Prelude a few years back. Pass door would not open from the inside. It ended up being one of those goofy lil spring clamps. Was not too bad to get back together. If I recall I made a valley with a hack saw and put 2 E clips in place to hold it.