Cold thermostat = high idle? yes no?

 

Crazy thread. If my runner didn't have this problem my life would be in shambles after reading this. Unfortunately I just wait to see what happens.

 

Oh boy, never a dull moment. We now know who "that guy" is.

The down side of replacing the little o-ring on the idle set screw is I had to buy 5 for $2 thus make a 5mm o-ring rather pricey in my book. And of course I've since lost the remaining 4. Oh well.

 

Yeah I did the same damn thing..... just like buying 5 of those damn resistors.... lost the other 4 of them.

 

He turned the idle down today and it is now working fine.

 

Someone owes someone who is not someone now an apology, way I see it.

 

Quick question. I don't want to hick jack this thread or start a new for something similar.

Were should the screw be set at that on the piece that moves when you hit the gas? Whats the purpose of the screw? I was under the impression that was the idle control.

 

That one? I think that adjusts the dashpot, for when you chop the gas all of a sudden.

 

It might work to temporarily solve some peculiar symptom. DOESN'T FIX THE VACUUM LEAK THOUGH DOES IT!He realized he could be wrong and tried to cover his tail. some people teuf.. some people. again.... Still chuckilng

 

Me too.

 

Glad to hear all is well.

 

As am I.. Isn't it funny though that it took 51 replies by the time all is said and done when Elton's first reply solved the issue??

 

Its lie it had a life of its own, amazing what hot air will do.

 

really guys must be along the lines of quantum physics

 

Looking into that site MudHippy posted, there is 3 different fuel cuts, only one of which takes its signal from the VSS, and that's the overspeed fuel cut. AKA, speed limiter/governor. the VSS has no bearing on the Over rev AKA REV Limiter nor does it pplay a part in the deceleration fuel cut.

I think Mudhippy is confusing the Over-speed Fuel cut with the other 2 fuel cuts that these engines have.

Nowhere in the descriptions does it mention Vehicle speed as a determining fact in any of them except the Over-speed fuel cut.

Now onto the real problem, why was the idle high? Most likely a vacuum leak. In most cases the Coolant temp sensor will not create a high idle, it will create a very erratic idle. Drop your coolant below the sensor location and you will see what I mean.

 

Good news. I always like the simple solutions.

 

True, out of curiosity i consulted my FSM and it said exactly what you said there.

 

Apologies for reviving this thread, but I really need some help with my 1990 22re 5speed, i posted this over at T4R.ORG, but I think maybe there's a little more mechanical knowledge over here:

I've had a hard time with my first 4Runner, I paid too much for it and the guy who sold it to me turned out to be a lying SOS, I've had to have suspension work done, replace the tailgate, the battery and the horn. i had to change my insurance company because my old insurer won't touch vehicles over 20 years of age and jump through all kinds of hoops just to get registered and plated.

Finally on Tuesday this week I get to drive it legally for the first time - I take it out of the city on a little 180km round trip to a job site, it's nosiy as all hell, vibrates like a bas**** and the Firestone 32s don't work great in the snow, but at least it runs okay and the heat works! I do the same trip the next day after fitting some smaller winter tires and it's a little quieter (and faster), use my iPod to block out the exhaust noise (K7N filter/straight pipe) and actually start to enjoy driving it, there's a funny vibration from under the left side of the hood just in front of the windshield over 40kph, but I just crank the Metallica and ignore it.

Today I drove it across downtown Toronto and back, no problems, other drivers are a little scared, but the usual Toronto maniacs don't seem to **** with me as badly as usual so that's all good.

Tonight my wife asks me to take her to work, truck starts fine but then the battery and brake lights stay on - I know the battery is fine, it's less than a week old. After 10 minutes the engine starts to surge between it's normal idle 800 and about 1200, after a couple of minutes I notice it's only doing this when I have my foot on the brake?!? When I take my foot off the brake it surges up to around 1800 all by itself and stays there. I limp home and when I turn off the engine I can hear a gurging noise from under the hood - I open it up and nothings leaking (that I can see), but I can't locate the exact source of the noise either.

I really need the truck for work, it's already into me for over $2500 and I can't afford to spend another dime, can anyone please, please give me an idea what might be going on?
__________________
1990 4Runner 2 door! 2.4L 22RE, 5spd Manual, 360,000km!

 

mechagouki: when my truck did these similar (not exact, similar) things,
It was my coolant temperature sensor.
Located on the front passenger side of the motor.
But you also need to check the radiator, when its gurgling underneith the hood, feel the top of the radiator and the bottom,
If the bottom is cold then you may need to take the thermostat out and drill a couple holes in it about 3/8's.
I've heard of different people having this problem and that fixed it.
But first I'd check that coolant temperature sensor.

 

man i could read this site forever.... just so much to learn