babyfood1217

what do the two have to do with one another? Nothing, but...

Am I missing a good source for new door seals/weather stripping? Places I've been scouring via the new are asking like $100. Looks like they come with new plastic tabs, but that still seems a bit excessive. Am I wrong? Glueing it back on is no longer an option, as much of the seal on my doors already has been glued and has ripped even more.

Sleeving - curious on what prices I should expect for a resleeve/bore hone for the 22re I'm pulling. It would have to be a long term project, as I have too many pots in the fire and not enough money to tend to them all right now, but I'm thinking this: between the new Engnbldr head/cam I've got and the about to be extra motor I'll be pulling when my new 22re comes in from OER, I could build (slowly) a nice 22re long block. It would be a long project as I would have to teardown the block, send it in for sleeving/boring/honing, and then reassembly would have to take place. Worth it? I'm thinking in terms first of money I could get from it done up verses money I could get from selling the new head as is and getting a few bucks back from the engine core going back to OER...

abecedarian

Can't help with the seals.

As for sleeving, I'd avoid it unless you're going to do all 4 cyinders- for obvious reasons you want all 4 cylinders to have the same volume. Then you're going to be out about ~400 for the sleeves and around 300 for the block prep- cleaning, machining, honing, etc. So about 700, give or take (assume more, but this is my estimate from just searching the 'net). Add another 300-400 for the master rebuid kit- rings, gaskets, etc. So you're up to about 1000, ~1500-1600 if you include the EB head's cost.
What does OER want for a longblock? And they have their warranty, right?

babyfood1217

Well I already sprung for the OER longblock. $1645 got me a steel T-chain guided long block shipped, and I should get about $180 back from the core deposit, so $1465 for the long block really. I was just thinking about rebuilding the motor in my own time at me own pace, but the sleeving will likely cost way too much to make it worth it. Why would I have to do all four? Couldn't just one be ok, as long as it was bored/honed to match?

Also, I'm assuming the sleeves are cast iron. Why are they so expensive? I do iron foundry work and I see no reason why a cylinder liner should cost so much. I might have to try making one or four...

abecedarian

I guess I should also ask why the need to sleeve #4? Low compression?

My reasoning behind sleeving all 4 is that the cost between sleeving and boring / honing is mostly a wash. Not sleeving and machining all 4 together to the same overbore, say .030 or whatever necessary, if your block will allow it is an option as well, and including the cost of pistons to keep the compression ratio up at stock, all work out to about the same, give or take. I'm also not sure if the sleeve would come with a piston to match and if so, that should weigh on your choice because if it does, you'll likely need another new piston for it when you bore it out to match the other three.

So would you rather have three old cylinders honed w/ one cylinder new but bored / honed to match the other three, 4 old cylinders machined, or 4 new cylinders?

And to muddle the pot a little more, japanengine sells alleged new castings for 900.

yoterr

yeah im kinda wondering on the sleeving myself, why not just bore em all .30 over...or get crazy and build a fun motor and go .50 over

babyfood1217

what if just one cylinder were cracked? Not scored, cracked.