neilan

Ok i have a 4=5 inch ifs lift on my 87 4runnerwith 33 inch tires. Most of the wheeling i do is just mudding and realitivly flat trails. Fist of all i am wondering if i can fit 35's on the amount of lift i have or would i have to do mabey 1 or 2in body lift?

Next i like the idea of just getting the toyota 4.88 thirds and yes i know they cant be regeared. Using some of the calculators around they say that 4.88 gears and 35's is actually lower gearing than my stock 4.10's and 30's. I liked the gearing with my 31's and 410 befor i got 33's which still arnt that bad.
Does anyoen run 35's and 4.88's? This is a daily driver as well but i dont drive very far only about 10 miles everyday to work. These thirds come out of toyotas 91 or 93? and newer that are v6 and came stock with 31inch tires?
How much am i looking to spend getting both thirds from a salvage yard?

And my last question is can i lock the differential without using dial indicators and such by using the mark method where you just tighten everythign the exact same amount?

neilan

any help is apriciated....

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

ok...first off, based on your 4.10 and 30" tires ...using the basic equation.... 4.10/30" = X/35" ...and solve for X ......means you need 4.92 gears to stay the same gearing as you had with 4.10 and 30". Let's assume true 30" and true 35" also. So 4.88 is pretty much right on the money. But don't forget that 35" tires are alot heavier.....so even though the speedo will read right on it won't feel "as fast" as before due to the rubber weight. MPG will suffer some....I can't say how much as your driving style can influence that.

I think you're right that those 488 gears come out of a V6 and 31" tire combo from the factory.....but it has an auto with the fantastic over-drive....so 488 is still good with them on the highway.

Yes, you can use the mark method as long as you keep the same case....that means you can put a lockrite in and not only will you use the mark method and put the ring adjusters back where they were...but you will tighten them equally on each side maybe 3 or 4 notches and that will give you superior strength and the backlash will remain as before. (carrier bearing pre-load has been "re-freshed"). http://www.powertrax.com/toyotalr.pdf You can add a Lockrite to the front if you want, also.

As far as the lift question.....others can help you more on that probably.....but I know 35x10.50 will clear with almost no lift......12.50 widths are gonna rub/tear the rear fender lips requiring a good amount of lift.

As far as cost of 3rds....200 each rings a bell.......car-parts.com I think.

just thought of this....but if your Runner is a V6 model then no worries at all of getting the front V6 carrier and it will fit in the front just fine. V6 front carriers have 2 slight differences....bigger carrier bearings and 30 spline sidegears as compared with 4 cyl models.
4 cylinder Runners have 27 spline sidegears......no issues cross-modeling as long as the axle stubs are not removed or traded out. I know of this issue cause I had a customer send me a True-trac for a front IFS I was setting up for him....he had a 4 cylinder truck and he sent me a TT for a V6 truck. It didn't work. I had to send the TT back and get a different part number one for the smaller 27 spline version.

Above paragraph is in error ...see posts below.ZUK

Good luck. ZUK

Sonofmayhem

so can the 4banger guys throw in front and rear v6 diffs on our ifs?

neilan

i realize that mpg will suffer but i can live with that cause i dont drive enough to have it really hit hard for like 4 mpg. If the gear ratio is basically the same and the tires will just weigh the truck down more i realize i might lose acceleration but how much harder wil it be to take of on a hill just because of a few hndered pounds of tires?

I do have the 4 banger model. SO your saying the vp will fit i just need to get the axel stubs from the v6 as well? Also if i buy tese from a scrapyard anyway of telling how good of shape there in? Is checkign the patern enough?

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

well, the loss of acceleration is a given....but there is some increased rolling resistance so it may slow down a little on the hills. Maybe you won't notice it....maybe you will.

Kinda tough to explain how to check if they are in good shape....really all you can do is a visual and a feel up. Make sure the pinion turns smoothly...no play is visible. Inspect the ring gear....are the teeth in good shape...no pieces missing .....no gouges in the teeth....smooth and shiny? You shouldn't need to check the pattern if those are factory gears.....just re-fresh the carrier bearings due to simple wear.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

correction



oops I see the confusion I might have.....it involves pn 911A342 and pn 911A445......both appear to be 27 spline.....and the only apparent diff is the carrier bearings... so you may be as good as gold even without the stubs. I would like you to verify this before you install them for my own info if you don't mind.

scroll down near the bottom and you can see they don't really mention a 30 spliner on the 7.5" part numbers(just mention the different bearings). It looks like I got that part about the splines kinda confused.. Sorry.
http://www.ringpinion.com/content/pr...p?vid=12&pid=3

http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/sh...ml/page44.html

beat me with a stick.


OK....so to re-iterate....the V6 and 4cyl will both be 27 spline.......the carrier bearings are a little bigger on the V6 model but that only concerns someone installing new gears/bearings or a new True Trac.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

85 4Runner on 37s and 4.88s when it was a dd...not a problem and 20 mpg

It all depends on how "fresh" your 4 banger is...mine is totally rebuilt

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

20 mpg is pretty outstanding for anything that has 37" tires.

neilan

ya mine is rebuilt with 600miles on it now. It all stock right now but when i do get the 35's and track down some of these gears used say i do notice some slugishness. Will the additiobn of the lc header and 2.25 tube with mabey a flowmaster help this at all?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I have a LCE header, high flow cat and a Delta 40 series FM.

neilan

I am startign to have second thoughts on jumping up to 35's. I already have 33's and it feels slugish with the stock 4.10's. instead of doing say the 35's and 4.88's which still keeps the stock ratio but may not feel stock considering the weight of the new tires and rims plus all the other crap i have waiting to put on (bumper, winch, ligts). Say i went with 34's instead how would this work?


And a few questiosn for people who have done the 4.88 mod out of a later 4runner. Where did you get your 3rds and if they came from a scrapyard, this is probably where i will buy mine is how much did you pay and what range do they run in?

all 4 mud

im lookn 4 a 22r motor if anyone could help me out im havong a hard tome finding one ..? 216 224 9407 my names corey or email me at all4_mud@yahoo.com

ovrrdrive

You don't quite understand this whole "forum" thing do you?

AH64ID

I have a 4" IFS lift, 35's and 4.88's. Until I had the heavy flywheel it was a little doggey on steep slow stuff. I can do most everything. I dont do mud, several reasons... its a pain to clean, it breaks things, 4cyls dont have the power....

I love my 35's, it amazing the capability over 33's. I had so do some conversing with the firewall, a 3lb sledge was my interpritor, and trim the rear wheel wheels, but no rubby any more. I get 18-21 mpg around town as a DD, and considerbially less at 65-80mph...

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

If you're putting 35's on your freaking IFS and bolting lots of crap to your truck, you'll want to be geared pretty low.

Do the math and figure out what gearing will give you about 3000rpm and 65mph (you won't want to take it any faster than that anyhow). Then get Zuk to set up all your R&P stuff because he know's what he's doing, or just do your best and hope it doesn't break (like I did).

AH64ID

I uploaded a excel chart that does all the math for you, its in this thread

If you already have 4.88's there fine, if not... then I would go 5.29 or 5.71... if you have the 4.88's its not worth the cash for the R&P swap, just get crawler gears for your xcase (this is what I am going to do)

ron86toy

process of sas on my 86.....putting 5.29's in and going to run 35x15.50x15's......should be running same rpms as stock

AH64ID

I would guess a few % over, which is good. My 4.88's and 35's make the speedo read 1.5% slow.... Assuming we both had the same stock combo of 225's and 4.10's

tc

I have driven a SAS 4Runner with the V6/Auto/571's and it's a DOG. Will NOT pull the overdrive on anything approaching uphill. If you have an auto, 4.88 will definitely be too low. If you have a manual, 4.88 will be OK, but I think you would like 5.29 better... just my $0.02