3vze timing marks, should i be concerned
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3vze timing marks, should i be concerned
So i have a very bad water leak at the number 2 idler pulley. I am tearing in to it and i see my cams like this. I think the factory marks on the plate behind the cams are above the bolt holes. It doesnt exactly line up on either one. The engine runs smooth but gets poor gas mileage. Is this of any concern?
Note: I PUT THE MARKS ON THE TIMING BELT
Crank at TDC
Passenger side cam
Driver side cam
Note: I PUT THE MARKS ON THE TIMING BELT
Crank at TDC
Passenger side cam
Driver side cam
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I'm by-no-means an expert - but I'm pretty sure the actual 'marks' for the cams to line up with are the little indents below the bolt holes.
That being said, I'd say you're definitely off a tooth for both cams and if you're following the factory service manual, I would adjust the cams and belt so that the marks on the cams are correctly lined up with the little indents below the bolt holes.
I redid my timing belt and the points (cam/crank) lined up perfect after installing the belt and doing the two revolutions of the crank test. I'd definitely fix that if I were you.
Steve
That being said, I'd say you're definitely off a tooth for both cams and if you're following the factory service manual, I would adjust the cams and belt so that the marks on the cams are correctly lined up with the little indents below the bolt holes.
I redid my timing belt and the points (cam/crank) lined up perfect after installing the belt and doing the two revolutions of the crank test. I'd definitely fix that if I were you.
Steve
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I'm by-no-means an expert - but I'm pretty sure the actual 'marks' for the cams to line up with are the little indents below the bolt holes.
That being said, I'd say you're definitely off a tooth for both cams and if you're following the factory service manual, I would adjust the cams and belt so that the marks on the cams are correctly lined up with the little indents below the bolt holes.
I redid my timing belt and the points (cam/crank) lined up perfect after installing the belt and doing the two revolutions of the crank test. I'd definitely fix that if I were you.
Steve
That being said, I'd say you're definitely off a tooth for both cams and if you're following the factory service manual, I would adjust the cams and belt so that the marks on the cams are correctly lined up with the little indents below the bolt holes.
I redid my timing belt and the points (cam/crank) lined up perfect after installing the belt and doing the two revolutions of the crank test. I'd definitely fix that if I were you.
Steve
Thanks for the advice
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11 around town, 15 best on the highway. I have bigger tires but it shouldnt be hurting it that bad. my speedo isnt off that much according to my GPS
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"funny, the passenger side pulley is on backwards."
Just so you know, I'm 99.99% sure that the cams are on correctly in your pictures. The drivers side is supposed to have the lip on the front and the passenger side on the back.
Just so you know, I'm 99.99% sure that the cams are on correctly in your pictures. The drivers side is supposed to have the lip on the front and the passenger side on the back.
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really? because the arrow is on the back of the cam, i can feel it
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there are timing marks on both sides of both cam sprockets; they are interchangeable, but one must go forward & one backward to prevent the belt from "walking"...
You will have to release the tensioner pulley to get the tension off the belt.
You will have to release the tensioner pulley to get the tension off the belt.
#13
It might take a few tries to get it right.
Last edited by ChickenLover; 09-02-2007 at 07:47 PM.
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Clamp the belt to the pulleys, then simply remove the #2 idler pulley to relieve tension. Unclamp one at a time, adjust each cam if necessary, put #2 back on (without rtv), rotate your crank twice to check alignment. If everything looks good, clamp the belt to the pulleys, remove #2 again, put down a bead of RTV, then reassemble.
It might take a few tries to get it right.
[IMG]
It might take a few tries to get it right.
[IMG]
#15
There is very little tension on it. It's a non issue. Take a look at my pic above; the belt needs to stay exactly as is, and you need to rotate the cam without effecting the belt. Keep one side clamped while you use the slack (after removing #2) to skip the other cam 1 tooth over.
Last edited by ChickenLover; 09-03-2007 at 12:32 AM.
#16
Get a new belt with the marks on the belt. Takes all the guess work out of the timing. As noted, the dimples near the bolt holes are the timing marks. All that white chicken scratch is just that and put there by some goober. The cast in triangle marks on the cam pulleys point to the dimples when properly timed. Crank has a similar notch for alignment with oil pump housing.
My $0.02
My $0.02
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I dont want to take apart the whole lower section to get a new belt in there. The belt is fairly new.
I'll try Chickenlovers trick today
I'll try Chickenlovers trick today
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took it apart, cleaned everything, Sealed it all up except the timing cover and fired it up. it runs nice, no leaks. tomorow i'm gonna borrow a cooling system tester and pressure test it. if all goes well i'll take the front hose back off and cover everything up.
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i plan on borrowing a timing light and cooling system tester from my school tomorrow. my idle changed so i'm sure the timing changed with it.
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