siarl

Thanks Scope. The belt is on and I simply just placed the cam shaft marks with the marks on the belt. There was slack on the belt so I turned the crankshaft to transfer the slack to the tensioner side. Do I need to adjust the tensioner in some way or when I pull out the pin does it automatically adjust the timing belt tension and take out any slack?

scope103

The adjuster (hydraulic or spring, depending on year) is not adjustable. You pull the pin (hydraulic) and it takes up the slack. If your cam sprockets (or crank) are no longer in the right place, you did something wrong and you need to start over. (Spin the crank twice if you're not sure, to make sure you've picked up all the backlash.)

Much easier if you just follow the manual: http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...67timingbe.pdf

siarl

Okay. After pulling the pin, I crank it through two revolutions, The camshaft marks ar right on the mark. The crankshaft pulley does not line up with the zero on the timing belt cover. It's off set on the 5 mark. This it the third time I've taken everything off and put it back on. Is it supposed to line up perfectly with the zero?

scope103

"Perfectly"? No. It can only be off by an integer number of teeth (it can't be off by 1/2 tooth). 5° is 1/72 of a rotation; I don't know how many teeth are on the the crank sprocket, but I'm pretty sure it's much less than 72 (but feel free to count them).

So realistically if you're off 1/3 or 1/4 of a tooth, feel free to call it good.

opie6837

scope103

"All"?

The marks on the SPROCKETS come back to the same place after two turns of the crank. (The cams turn exactly 1/2 as fast as the crank.)

Many new timing belts have marks that help on the initial installation. These do NOT come back after 2 or 20 turns of the crank (they actually come back after about 60 turns, but I'd have to count the teeth on the sprockets and do the math).