drew303

With the brace, the idler arm is essentially as strong as the pitman arm and steering box. When you turn, or the front suspension flexes you're apply stress on every pivoting joint in the steering system. Add balljoints and you've now effected how the suspension applies forces to the steering. BJ's cause the tie rod ends to bind up more which obviously puts more stress on everything if its binding. With the brace installed, you've focused the new forces directly on the idler arm.... which is just a hinge. The hinge rides on the bushings you speak of.

similar stress obviously occurs on a stock setup but not as much as after you change how the tierods move up n down. With balljoint spacerrs, they bind more as I just mentioned. Without the brace, your arm bends up. Usually about 1/2" or so. Just enough for the pass side rod to find itself a comfy home it likes. The Driver side still binds but the pitman arm/steering box arent weak enough to "bend"... but that force has to go somewhere so it's still more stress on the steering box guts than it was designed for but none the less I think its strong enough to take the brunt without whining. (or better known as wearing out)

Theres a lot of factors that could explain why you might experience premature bushing failure when no one else is. Like I said before, with the brace, the stress is centered on the idlers pivot, the bushings that harness the rod that connects teh idlers.. "arm" Factors like, well obviously the balljoints but also how the truck was aligned. The lower A-arm moves in and out (we all know this) but what I think we generally overlook is that if you move the A-arm in... when the suspensioin flexs, that tierod is pushed, in as the system compresses. I've never seen two trucks lower arms adjusted identical. The mounts bend, warp,... where you have your t-bars adjusted effects how the shop is going to align the wheels.

W/ BJ spacers the tire as it moves up n down, moves in andout of camber. Since the A-arms are no longer parallel the hub as it moves up n down changes camber all through the travel. So whereever you 'set' your front end when you have it aligned is where the shop is going to set camber to zero. This directly effects where the tech positions the lower a-arm mounts.

Which is a dynamic difference on everyones truck making no two alike and making no two persons experience with their idler arms the same.

To clarify, I never said big fat heavy mud tires didnt effect the suspension. I thought we were discussing how big fat heavy mud tires effect steering components?

drew303

I would support the notion that larger tires increase stress on the idler arm itself but in a rather minor way.

Obviously its harder to turn a larger tire, bigger footprint, more weight and depending on the tread to and whether the rubber is soft or hard.

It could be more difficult to turn a smaller softer tire than say one of those Costco brand (kirkland) hard as rock crappy tires that is of a larger diameter.

More force that is needed to turn a tire, means more stress on everything. I agree with that but I find it unfair to expect bushing issues with the idler arm by simply going to a larger tire.

Jay351

sorry, I ment to say steering. Typo

Countryhick

im running 33 12.50 15's on my 4runner and i have 14-15 town 16-18 highway.

With 5:29 gearing and a blown head. lol

4runnerguy

and its not only the tires that make a diff. i have 33x12.50 with a 15x10 rim just keep in mind the steel rims are heavy as i have aluminums and they make a big diff on the weight

stormin94

So aside from the all important debate over various IFS components being "weak", does anyone have any useful info relating to the subject at hand? No disrespect, I'm just looking for information without arguement.

Mic09dcsm

Have fun, it's your truck.

4runnerguy

well it all depends on how much u been on your truck when u wheel

Trustyrusty

Matt I didn't mean to say the spacer is weak, its a hunk of metal like you said, it weakens other things... Man Im tired..

stormin94

A little update since I've had my 33's in October.

At full flex in the rear, I do get some minor rubbing, and at full crank I still get some rubbing in the front, but nothing too severe.

Road noise is noticeable, but not overpowering.

Power loss is definitely noticeable, but I've adjusted my driving habits to cope.

MPG has dropped significantly, down to near 14 all the time, and it's a surprise to average over 15.5MPG

I got the recall done on the steering relay rods, and the dealership did an alignment for free, so it drives straighter down the road.

The tires are wearing very well, and I've put around 4000-5000 miles on them.

I've had to trim some of the metal bracket that holds the rubber shift boot in place due to some interferance from the body lift.



I am looking into regearing to 4.88's and possibly including a locker in that install.

stormin94

On a certain route, I can average over 17MPG round trip while driving normal. The best I've achieved so far is about 17.8MPG. Other than that... it's around 14MPG.