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33's come tomorrow

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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 10:55 PM
  #1  
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From: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
33's come tomorrow

I hope I made a good choice going with the Dunlop 33-12.50-15s. I'm also going to install my 1" body lift tomorrow to make sure I can clear those brutes. I've decided I have waited too long to destroy my MPG, and power, what little I had. Comments, Questions, Suggestions?


Pics will come soon.
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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When are you holding the service for your idler arm?
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 11:16 PM
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From: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
Originally Posted by Matt16
When are you holding the service for your idler arm?
Hmmm... will it die before it even makes it off the pavement?
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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your prolly going to rub alittle with only 1" of body lift. with cruiser coils and bj spacers in my rig i get rubbing when flexed. mines been thru a year of 33 x 12.5 and still havent had any issues with idler arms or cv's. knock on wood. gas is another story tho.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 02:20 AM
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I had a set of Dunlop RVT A/T 33x12.50's on my old F-250. They were great. Quiet on the road, had lot's of grip on easy to moderate trails. Great in the sand, not so great in the mud. When I replace my current Toyo A/T's on my Yota, I'll probably look to buy a good M/T for better off road traction.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 10:15 AM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Originally Posted by stormin94
Hmmm... will it die before it even makes it off the pavement?
No, of course not.. But I would re-build it when you put the new tires on.. Expect to go through a set of bushings each time you go wheeling (moderate wheeling, mudding doesnt count)...
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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If I ever went 33x12.5s, I'd personally get the Total Chaos idler arm:



BUt, 33x10.5 is the biggest tire I'd ever do personally.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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Not worth the price IMO. I would have to rebuild the OEM like.. 100 times to cover that.. I will have gone to SFA by then
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt16
If I ever went 33x12.5s, I'd personally get the Total Chaos idler arm:



BUt, 33x10.5 is the biggest tire I'd ever do personally.
$351.98<=====O SNAP!
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jason191918
$351.98<=====O SNAP!
No, you've got it backwards...OEM idler= a real SNAP Which is why 33x10.5s are a better choice IMO.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by shancerlelby
your prolly going to rub alittle with only 1" of body lift. with cruiser coils and bj spacers in my rig i get rubbing when flexed. mines been thru a year of 33 x 12.5 and still havent had any issues with idler arms or cv's. knock on wood. gas is another story tho.

Even with 4.88's the 33's kill your gass? What is your mileage? how is the seat of the pants dyno with 4.88's and 33's? Do you think 5.29's would be better?

Sorry for the hijack.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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From: quesnel b.c Canada
5.29's would be alot better im sure, 5.71'a would be best as im still autotragic. (parts are here for a 5 speed swap tho) as for fuel economy i don't worry about it much. 280km's to a tank on average and i only do short trips to work and the rest of the time it see's trail and that is never good for economy. Seat of the pants dyno well the 4 runner isnt fast on 29" highway terrains so why even think of it? it's built to go places not be eficient. thats why people own corollas.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 03:29 PM
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From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by stormin94
I hope I made a good choice going with the Dunlop 33-12.50-15s. I'm also going to install my 1" body lift tomorrow to make sure I can clear those brutes. I've decided I have waited too long to destroy my MPG, and power, what little I had. Comments, Questions, Suggestions?


Pics will come soon.
My Dunlops rub, 33" X 12.50" x 15" with 1" BL. I'm autotragic, too. Mileage is horrible, like 10-11, with 4.10's. Yep, I need help too.
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 01:07 AM
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From: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
Well, I did a road test, AKA driving home (Lake County) from Sac(about 100 miles) and I can't take the fuel economy numbers too seriously, since I was driving into a 40+miles per hour headwind. So far, I've gone 100 miles on 1/2 tank.....that's about 12 MPG so far. I'm guessing it's gonna be more like 14-15 average for this tank tho. The best I'm hoping for with the 33's is 16-17. Good thing gas prices are falling. Power isn't too terrible with 4.30 gearing. Maybe I should look into 4.88's? Also, one issue I had with the body lift is the rubber shifter boot is binding up 2nd and 4th gear. I'd rather not cut the boot, since it is a seal. I've already cut the metal ring that screws the boot down, and that helped out some, but I still have to hold it in those 2 gears. All the others feel fine.


PS, Idler arm is holding strong..... but I have ordered a downey brace for it instead. Before I saw the total chaos one on here, I thought downey's for $49.99 was expensive.
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by stormin94
PS, Idler arm is holding strong..... but I have ordered a downey brace for it instead. Before I saw the total chaos one on here, I thought downey's for $49.99 was expensive.
My last set of bushings lasted 9 months/ 9000km. That's with 31s. I don't rock crawl, but I drive over lots of old logging roads.
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 01:25 AM
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From: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
Originally Posted by Matt16
My last set of bushings lasted 9 months/ 9000km. That's with 31s. I don't rock crawl, but I drive over lots of old logging roads.
I don't rock crawl either. What's the symptoms of a bad idler arm bushing?
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt16
If I ever went 33x12.5s, I'd personally get the Total Chaos idler arm:



BUt, 33x10.5 is the biggest tire I'd ever do personally.
I've run 33x12.50's for my last four wheeling trips, my last trip out I popped my front end 5 feet off the ground and landed like a ton of bricks. I have not had ONE steering, suspension, or any other problems due to my tire size, an extra 2.5" of tire will do NO more damage to your truck. I beat on my truck, and I wheel it every weekend. My last wheelin' trip I was doing a little "pre-running" if you wanna call it that banging gears and romping over terraces and I haven't broke anything yet other then my tail bone..
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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From: (Rednecks Inbreed In) Kansas
Originally Posted by trbizwiz
Even with 4.88's the 33's kill your gass? What is your mileage? how is the seat of the pants dyno with 4.88's and 33's? Do you think 5.29's would be better?

Sorry for the hijack.
I run 33x12.5x15 BFG MUDS and a 3" Body lift and stock 4.10 gearing with my 22R and I get 19 mpg in town. Highway I get about 25. Keep your engine tuned right, and don't drive it like its got a V8 and it's good on gas, if I got my foot in it, I get around 17mpg in town, which is still better then most trucks anyways. Before I went to 33's I was getting 21 mpg in town, and 27-28 highway. Right now I'm sittin at half a tank of gas and I've gone 169 miles, Mind you I HAVE calculated for the 18% difference in my tire size to odemeter reading by multiplying my miles by 1.18.
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stormin94
I don't rock crawl either. What's the symptoms of a bad idler arm bushing?
Steering wanders a little and isn't as precise as it can be. Its not the end of the world, the truck is fine to drive, but once you put the new bushing in, the difference is impressive.
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:25 PM
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From: (Rednecks Inbreed In) Kansas
Originally Posted by stormin94
I hope I made a good choice going with the Dunlop 33-12.50-15s. I'm also going to install my 1" body lift tomorrow to make sure I can clear those brutes. I've decided I have waited too long to destroy my MPG, and power, what little I had. Comments, Questions, Suggestions?


Pics will come soon.
My only advice is to run 3.5 or 3.75 BS wheels and 3" of lift will get you NO rub. Pound the piss outta that pinch weld. I got a 3" body lift and I don't rub at all.

Edit: You might try BJ Spacers & Shackles if you get tired of the rubbing...
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