32x11.50s rub A-Arms with 1.5” BJ Spacer, OME T-Bars, Stock SR5 Wheels
Aug 2, 2018 | 07:25 AM
#22
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Maybe they dont rub at all. Looking forward to see the photos with the new shoes.
I'm interested in this thread because I'm planning to install the Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 32"/11.5 R15, same size but different brand.
I'm interested in this thread because I'm planning to install the Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 32"/11.5 R15, same size but different brand.
Aug 2, 2018 | 07:26 AM
#23
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From: Birmingham, AL
I think they would be fine except for the 1.5" 4Crawler spacers, which raise the upper control arm up. If I was just cranking T-Bars, It'd be fine as is.
Aug 2, 2018 | 08:12 AM
#24
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From: S. FL
Charles - so when I originally put my BJ spacers on is when I believe the problem happened. I did not notice at first, but then after a bit of driving, I happened to see the scarring on the inside wall of the tires. Mine were just barely rubbing, enough to make a mark through the whitewall letters. I did not want to grind my a-arm and I wasn't even sure if that would be enough, so I bought the 1/4" spacers and that did the trick. If you have already ground your a-arm lip, then you might be fine, the 1/4" spacers are good extra insurance.
Aug 2, 2018 | 08:53 AM
#25
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From: Birmingham, AL
Charles - so when I originally put my BJ spacers on is when I believe the problem happened. I did not notice at first, but then after a bit of driving, I happened to see the scarring on the inside wall of the tires. Mine were just barely rubbing, enough to make a mark through the whitewall letters. I did not want to grind my a-arm and I wasn't even sure if that would be enough, so I bought the 1/4" spacers and that did the trick. If you have already ground your a-arm lip, then you might be fine, the 1/4" spacers are good extra insurance.
Aug 2, 2018 | 12:31 PM
#26
Shocking news...
That lip actually is structural to an extent, much like the one that gets cut off behind the ball joint spacers, the 90° junctions serve to stiffen and reinforce the flat sections. It's been covered before.
There is a small change in the A arm clearances as it travels, picture a plane rotating in a balls centerline when the plane is parallel it protrudes farthest.
A small shim is likely all you need, tape measure and some mathematics would tell you for certain..
Keep in mind the quality of the work done while installing those BJ spacers. It's not unheard of for there to be discrepancy in the cut and grind of the arms which yields different clearances on each side in which case you might need different sized shims on each side to center the rubber with the frame.
Aug 2, 2018 | 01:07 PM
#27
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From: Birmingham, AL
That lip actually is structural to an extent, much like the one that gets cut off behind the ball joint spacers, the 90° junctions serve to stiffen and reinforce the flat sections. It's been covered before.
There is a small change in the A arm clearances as it travels, picture a plane rotating in a balls centerline when the plane is parallel it protrudes farthest.
A small shim is likely all you need, tape measure and some mathematics would tell you for certain..
Keep in mind the quality of the work done while installing those BJ spacers. It's not unheard of for there to be discrepancy in the cut and grind of the arms which yields different clearances on each side in which case you might need different sized shims on each side to center the rubber with the frame.
There is a small change in the A arm clearances as it travels, picture a plane rotating in a balls centerline when the plane is parallel it protrudes farthest.
A small shim is likely all you need, tape measure and some mathematics would tell you for certain..
Keep in mind the quality of the work done while installing those BJ spacers. It's not unheard of for there to be discrepancy in the cut and grind of the arms which yields different clearances on each side in which case you might need different sized shims on each side to center the rubber with the frame.
About 1” of clearances now - will be close!
Last edited by Charles4x4; Aug 2, 2018 at 01:08 PM.
Aug 3, 2018 | 08:27 PM
#28
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 265
Likes: 46
From: Reno Nevada
How you can have the money and the time you’ve put into this truck, but lack a proper understanding of tire aspect ratio and wheel offset boggles my mind. Clearly you are a smart and capable person.
Ball joint spacers are garbage, bottom line.
Why go through the quality, time, money, and restoration you are only to use ball joint spacers and non hub centric/specific wheel spacers? The fact that you had to grind into the upper control arm should sound alarm bells. You’ll spend the time looking up the led replacement you need for an lighted electrical switch, dismantle the switch and replace the led, but you can’t take out a ruler, do some math and a google search? There’s an incongruency here that I can’t understand.
All of this would be legitimately fixed by running the necessary tire size, or wheel offset, or combination of the two. Hub centric spacers optional. No grinding needed.
Also, your build thread should be in the build up section.
Ball joint spacers are garbage, bottom line.
Why go through the quality, time, money, and restoration you are only to use ball joint spacers and non hub centric/specific wheel spacers? The fact that you had to grind into the upper control arm should sound alarm bells. You’ll spend the time looking up the led replacement you need for an lighted electrical switch, dismantle the switch and replace the led, but you can’t take out a ruler, do some math and a google search? There’s an incongruency here that I can’t understand.
All of this would be legitimately fixed by running the necessary tire size, or wheel offset, or combination of the two. Hub centric spacers optional. No grinding needed.
Also, your build thread should be in the build up section.
Last edited by RASALIBRE; Aug 3, 2018 at 08:32 PM.
Aug 4, 2018 | 06:07 AM
#30
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 488
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From: Birmingham, AL
How you can have the money and the time you’ve put into this truck, but lack a proper understanding of tire aspect ratio and wheel offset boggles my mind. Clearly you are a smart and capable person.
Ball joint spacers are garbage, bottom line.
Why go through the quality, time, money, and restoration you are only to use ball joint spacers and non hub centric/specific wheel spacers? The fact that you had to grind into the upper control arm should sound alarm bells. You’ll spend the time looking up the led replacement you need for an lighted electrical switch, dismantle the switch and replace the led, but you can’t take out a ruler, do some math and a google search? There’s an incongruency here that I can’t understand.
All of this would be legitimately fixed by running the necessary tire size, or wheel offset, or combination of the two. Hub centric spacers optional. No grinding needed.
Also, your build thread should be in the build up section.
Ball joint spacers are garbage, bottom line.
Why go through the quality, time, money, and restoration you are only to use ball joint spacers and non hub centric/specific wheel spacers? The fact that you had to grind into the upper control arm should sound alarm bells. You’ll spend the time looking up the led replacement you need for an lighted electrical switch, dismantle the switch and replace the led, but you can’t take out a ruler, do some math and a google search? There’s an incongruency here that I can’t understand.
All of this would be legitimately fixed by running the necessary tire size, or wheel offset, or combination of the two. Hub centric spacers optional. No grinding needed.
Also, your build thread should be in the build up section.
Mos Hub centeric wheel spacers are 1.25”. Per my measurements, I only needed 1/4” at most. Research showed 1/4” Thin Spacer is not ideal, but works fine. Some had run them for 12-yrs with no problems.
The 32s make the truck!
Last edited by Charles4x4; Aug 4, 2018 at 06:15 AM.
Aug 4, 2018 | 07:45 AM
#31
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 43
Likes: 37
From: Las Vegas, NV
I would beg to differ on your opinion of balljoint spacers. I had them and ended up removing them. If you need convincing, please read the information in this link. It is kind of long, but it has some excellent pictures and information about our IFS and its limitations. You have done everything so well on this build, it would be a shame to put poorly engineered parts on it. Just some friendly advice.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...ou-mam-280708/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...ou-mam-280708/
Aug 6, 2018 | 04:29 AM
#32
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Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 102
Likes: 12
From: Jacksonville FL
Just a general thing about tire fitment, I run 33x12.50r15 KM2s on the factory 15x8 sr5 alloys with no lift at all and only had to clearance the back of the fenders. no issue with rubbing the frame or a arms.
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