I have a 1990 4runner, 4x4, 3.0L v6, 2-door that i bought for $1200. I've done some basic tune-up stuff and new wheels and tires, only to find out that i have a dead cylinder in #3. think its a toasted valve. the problem is, is no one wants to work on this motor, or they want a lot of money to do so. I'm not in the position to be spending much on this, (about $1000 left i can put in it) so I'm wondering if i should do the repair myself, or, find a 4.3 vortec in the junkyard to put in there, and how much trouble is that with an automatic tranny?, or does a 350 really fit? any and all advice on this is greatly appreciated. im trying to get this think put together so my wife can get rid of her stratus and drive the 4runner. thanks guys!

 

For about 100 bucks you can do it yourself. Get the manual or use the one on autozone website.

 

I do not believe that $1000 will put much of a dent in either of those engine swaps. You can either repair your current engine or possibly pick up a used one.

 

is there anything special i gotta know before tearing into this motor? i'm aware of some things:
1. a machine shop will have to do the work on the heads,
2. make sure you set the engine to TDC B4 pulling the heads and timing belt.
3. its gonna take some busted knuckles and colorful words.

i've never gotten this deep into engine repair and i just dont want to pull it apart, and then not be able to get it running again.

any tips, or advice on this?

 

do it yourself... make sure that you keep the fasteners and small parts clearly labeled in plastic baggies... its not hard... just not the funnest motor to work on...

also, while its apart, take some time to have your parts cleaned like the plenum and the valve covers... make sure everything is squeeky so that the next time it starts leaking oil you'll be able to see it...

also, ive heard to get the head gasket only from toyota... which brings up another question, did you see if the recall had been done on that motor?? if not,then they will do all of this for free.. or at least cheap...

 

Note: some toyota dealerships around the nation offer discount to toyota based forums, im part of 3 supra groups that get made discounts , 25-40 percent still haven';t done the math...

personally toyota gaskets and silicone sealer is some good stuff, i have had more then one instance which the cam seals from parts store would leak while toyota oem would not.

 

lotsa people use engnbldr gaskets and have no problems...I personally wouldn't hesitate to do that. But if the OEM toyota gasket will give you peace of mind, then by all means, go for it.

 

Like space junk said use plastic baggies labeled and indexed in a log. You can also take pictures and add those to the log to help jog your memory when it's time to put things back together. But first get a book or download the manuals and study up first so your not in with a blindfold on.

 

I just had this sam problem last summer however i had two bad valves one on each head. while you have it torn apart replace all gaskets waterpump thermostat and timing belt. i say water pump and thermostat because they are cheap and nearly impossible to change after it is all back together.
For me money break down.
water pump, timing belt, ideer pully, thermostat= $90 off ebay
Head gasket set, head bolts=$110 off ebay all gaskets worked good no leaks
hayes repair manual=$20 from local parts store
machine shop bill for both heads cleaned smoothed replace both valves and suction test others totaled $105
Grand total of $325 (not including new oil and radiator fluid)

 

i had a similar problem, and i figured it was the valves as well. i even did a leak down test to try to pinpoint whether it was valves or rings or headgasket. i had 0 comp on #6. Couldn't tell from the leakdown test anything conclusive so i decided to pull the motor and get the heads off to see what i had.

Turned out #6 piston had chipped from detonation, putting pieces into the cylinder wall and gouging it out. I ended up having to pull the whole bottom end apart, take the block in to get bored over .030.
Ted was very nice and sent me oversized pistons and rings in exchange for the stock ones i had already bought from him. (engnbldr)
Then i had to get the heads done and finish the rebuild.

i'm into it between $1k and $1500 now and i'm just about done. I also did the H20 Pump and clutch kit and a few other little things i didn't want to change while the motor was in the truck

 

rce311 FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, don't get discouraged!!!!!!
2-door 2nd gen 4Runners are very rare now-a-days, keep plugging away or at the very least sell that gem to someone who will love it!
If that was within a 150 miles of me and rust-free I'd give $2k for it even with a blown engine.

 

^word^

 

+1... dont hack up your 8th wonder of the toyota world by putting in another motor!!

 

thanks guys. started the dissassembly. taking lots of pics. got a manual, and studied it for a few days.

anyone know the price difference between engnbldr head gaskets and toyota head gaskets?

and how do i know if the timing belt needs replaced? i havent got the cover off completely but i can see that it looks black and really shiny. any thoughts?

 

i think the recall had been done. i havent checked for sure but it has 241,000miles so im imagining it had.

 

Not necessarily, possibly the p.o. didn't know about the recall.
Call or stop by any Toyota dealer with your vin # and they can tell you if it was done and also when/where.

 

the timing belt is something you should ALWAYS do while you have it apart. it makes no sense not to and then have it break sooner than you'd hoped. why risk it?

The full engbldr kit was like $400 IIRC, and that has basically everything you need except a water pump. and the timing tensioner if yours is worn out.

 

read the FSM's that are stickied on the 86-95 board. they literally have step by step instructions on how to do basically an entire rebuild.

 

toyotacarpart.com http://www.toyotacarpart.com/default.asp?p=8 it's a little more than you want to spend but it might be worth it.

Good Luck JonnY

 

well as far as the timing belt, im hoping to not have to pull the crank and everything down below off. so if its in good shape, id rather not. its not the fact of replacing a $30 belt, its the added trouble of more parts to keep track of. the teeth on the belt still have the grid from the factory on it. if i can get a good pic, ill post it so you can tell me what you think.i just got the lower intake off today, fuel rails, and wiring harness out of the way. the water outlet and the pulley attached to it on the top side of the timing belt may need replacing though, it spins freely, but not smoothly. any thoughts?