I got the headers raw from Downey, P/N 17410-3.4RAW (that was hand-written on the P/N decal). They are obviously non-egr, and no O2 fitting (as mine is in the Y-pipe). No leaks (yet), no sealant- just good gaskets. Downey sent a set with the headers... I think. They also send a bolt kit- but (don't laugh) I prefer studs.

Once I got the ball flanges to a spot that would allow easy access (simple 135 and 90 bends for R and L), The Y-pipe was pretty easy. The passenger side has to go down under the Trans and across, then merge with the driver side. A Flowmaster Y collector made that easy (it gives you slip-fit, so all you have to do is trim to length + .5", and get it flanged. I had a bunch of male / female ball flanges sitting here, so I just slipped one on the other end of both, bolted them in (aligned), and built out to the Y collector. I added a 6" stainless flex coupling in the middle to counter and header expansion / contraction, and make it much easier to put back on if I ever mess it up.

I got these straight from Downey, since time was of the essence. They started out looking like this: (shot to show the interference with the right framerail)



Then went to this: (down tubes added with ball-flanges, and the ports cleaned up)



Then to this: (A local coater did the Jet-Hot for me; he does great work)

 

one word awesome

 

Thanks for the info about the headers...do you mind sharing how much you paid for them? Are they on downey's website?

And do you by any chance live in Norcal? I wouldn't mind stealing your source for that sexy Jet-Hot

 

Lookin good!!
Very Clean!!!

 

ay where did u get those HID kit! n would it fit the older trucks?

 

Wow! Nice job.

 

From Downey, $310 + $20 shipping.

The HIDs are from Nathan at www.HID-source.com; they'll run ya $350-400 for the 9004 setup (4 ballasts and dual- mode bulbs). Nathan sells on LS1tech and several other sites- check his out & you probably find a kit for your ride. As for fit on an older ride, if your using rectangular sealed beams, your kit is much cheaper.

 

Dyno numbers from this afternoon- I still have an ignition miss. I used the original coils with new Toyota plug wires, dropped the spark gap to .035" (URD says .043). I think I have a 'leaky' coil, so I'll swap a few around tonight. Note the jumpyness of the line- it shows the dropped cylinder/cylinders. Since this uses a waste-spark system, I could be losing two cylinders each time this happens. Either way- we got the fuel right (I added 3% after the dyno run pictured), and the timing seems OK. We actually made 254 on the run before, but the miss got worse on the last run (the only pic I saved).

We believe there's a good 275rwhp to be had, based on the same experience with similar dyno runs (GNs, S/C'd Frontier, etc). Based on a 15-18% loss through the driveline for my 5spd, we should be making around 290hp right now, about 310-320 when the miss problem is solved.

Best news: The drive home was a blast! Not so much of a blast: The 18" Magnaflow. I'm starting to think my Flowmaster (on my 89) was quiter at 2500-3K rpm.

Last dyno:

 

Jeff, those numbers are quite impressive. I didn't remember seeing if you are using the stock pully or not, but WOW either way. I'm really missing the SC

 

Yup- stock 2.37 pulley for now. I'll put the URD pulley on in the fall.

 

Damn those are some sweet numbers for stock boost levels, is your A/F at 13:1? or is the dyno reading off... are you going to put in water injection when you put a smaller pulley? Love the truck (i cant wait to do the swap)

 

Nice build. Great pics.

With all the 4Runner 3.4 swaps happening on this board it almost seems like it will be hard to find a 3.0 equipped 4Runner.... almost.

 

Greg- Yes, on that run the AFR stayed just a tick below 13:1; I know it will make a wee bit more power at 12.0/12.5-ish, but until I get the ignition issue out of the way, it'll stay there. What you see there is full-throttle, on-boost #s; the tricky part is getting the driveability right. She cruises real nice- I spent a few hours this afternoon leaning out a few fat part-throttle spots.

Also yes to water (poss methanol) injection later- it gets real hot & humid here in FL.

 

Wow that was with the stock pulley, sweet numbers! What size tires you running?

 

waaay nice!!
my big question is about how long did it take & about how much cash do you have wrapped up into the swap?

 

First- the good news. The ignition miss was due to a coil that was grounding out through the long boot (pass bank). There was a small hole in the boot- it was arcing right through it. It's smooth as hell now!

You know what that means: Back to the dyno!

Dale- I'm running too-small 265/70/16s, which I believe are just a hair under 31", but this thing feels like it has 225/75s on it. My axle code says 4.56s, but it feels like 4.88s. She ain't no freeway-bomb!

fnrunner-- too long, too much. I'm about $3500 deeper into this than I wanted, but the results are worth it. I bought a R151F from a local 'Toyota' guy thinking (and sold as) good-to-go. Nope. 3rd, 5th were not pretty. I used one of Marlin Crawler's rebuild / upgrade kits, as well as their upgraded clutch. I also had to get:

1. pedal assembly (get the clutch cancel sw and cruise canc switches)
2. Clutch MC + slave cyl (Marlin)
3. Clutch MC line (local dealer)
4. Clutch soft line (local dealer)
4a. Clutch hardline from the slave cyl to the soft line
4b. Drive flanges from Marlin; the 87 pattern is different than my 93 auto shafts, and my local yard wouldn't even think of selling just the flanges. For my money- I like his better anyway.
5. Trans mount (actually cheapest at my local dealer)
6. Shift boot / trim pieces (off the board here)
7. cut / reweld shifter, as it was from an 87, and bent the wrong way for my 93. Same with the Tcase lever. The upper (gray leather, not the rubber) shift boot still won't work- thats on my TTD list.

Why did I list all that stuff? Cuz it happens on every system. Intake:

1. Intake Tube
2. Silicon adapters (x2)
3. T-bolt clamps
4. Air filter
5. various fittings
6. Supra MAF

Now think of exhaust, fuel system, wiring (can't just throw it in without adding some circuits / stuff, now can we?)...etc, etc, etc- it goes on and on. Some of the best advice I can pass (and ORS echo's this): Make sure your ready to go a bit deeper into your pockets than you might think. I always make a list of the various 'systems', and try to plan them out as best i can, knowing what I'll need, and how much time to do so.

But, if #s will answer your question a bit better than my soapbox tirade- about 5 months and around $8K (truck was only $900 with a dead 3.0). It could be done alot quicker, but I'm managing a few projects like this right now, and make a secondary living as the world's greatest procrastinator.

 

MAN! Alot of extra's....I thought your 93 was a manual to start with? or no?
by the sounds of your parts list, sounds like a no...

My 89 would be a great candidate for the SC 3.4 swap someday...that thing is so nice I don't think I could ever let it go....so an extra $8K would be worth it IMO.

Post your new dyno pull once you get it...eager to see what this baby can do!!

 

Hey 89934runr, nice job and I know you are loving life when you mash the go pedal. How much boost are you running? I got greedy with mine and got pinging so I had to back off on the pulley.... check link in signature for details...

again: nice job w/your swap.

 

You are at the top man bad ass job