funjumper

I got the fuel injectors back from WitchHunter. They look 100% better.
The injectors looked really bad when I sent them in. Dirty and ugly. I thought for sure that they would be clogged up.
The flow report is interesting. Even though they looked terrible, there was only one injector that didn't pass one part of the test. The flow difference was 4.1% between the best and worst. After servicing, all injectors passed all the tests and the flow difference was 1%.
Odds are the motor would have run fine without having the injectors cleaned. It was worth the 104.50 to me to know 100% that the injectors are good and all the rubber has been replaced. One less variable to think about when I turn the key for the first time.

I shipped the injectors via USPS P1 service on Tuesday. They likey got it on Thursday. The injectors were shipped Friday. I got them on Monday. Less than a week turnaround. Great service.

TNRabbit

Was that the extra $20 express ship or regular?

funjumper

6 @ 15.00ea = 90.00
Shipping to Bothell, WA via USPS P1 = 7.00
Standard Return Shipping Charge = 7.50

Total = 104.50

USPS Priority 1 is the cheapest 2-3 day shipping service.
I always include all shipping costs when tracking expenses.

funjumper

I am in the process of putting the 5vzfe back together. I am waiting on the crossover pipe to come from Jet-Hot coatings. ORS drop-shipped it to them. I should have it by the middle of next week.

Anyone know anything about installing the flywheel on a 5vzfe? I have bolts and the flywheel. Are there any other parts or does it just bolt right up?

funjumper

I am finally getting back to work on the swap. I plan to pull the 3.0 this weekend and hopefully drop in the 3.4.

I lost a bunch of bookmarks. I can't find a writeup I am looking for.

The writeup was how they managed to do the swap without removing and re-installing the AC Compressor. They left the plumbing and compressor in, swapped out the clutch, dropped in the 3.4, and bolted it back up.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Hints or tips?

Kutter

Not sure who's post you are refering to but this link to my swap has similar information for the A/C.

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1


Air Conditioner
Used the stock 3.0 compressor and lines. You do not even need to open the system and let out the freon when doing the swap. Used the compressor clutch and pulley from the 3.4 engine. Used the stock 3.4 compressor mounting bracket. It all bolts right up. Electrical connector on the 3.0 A/C compressor is compatible with the connector on the 3.4 engine wiring harness. No worries here. This way you do not have to buy the whole compressor from the donor vehicle only the clutch and pulley. Save a little money here and by not having in to reservice the freon. Use the stock 3.4 drive belt.

Good luck.

breknraj

I think it might have been Fallman that kept his A/C intact.

It would entail removing the compressor from the side of the engine before pulling the engine out. Difficult, but not impossible. Once the engine is out, then you can work on swapping the pulley on your compressor, before putting the 5V in.

You may also run into an issue with a slightly different set-up with engine mounts and the compressor. I had to do some grinding to make mine fit. You may not have this problem, but be on the lookout for it.

funjumper

I spent a bunch of time looking things over carefully. It looks like it is doable, but a PITA. I have to pull the ABS lines, so there will be a bit more room to work.

funjumper

I pulled out the exhaust downpipe back to the cat. I soaked down the fasteners with KROIL penetrating oil twice in the two days before I started work. KROIL worked like magic. I tried to loosen the fasteners before and they were seized up tight. They came apart pretty easily after the KROIL treatment.

KROIL - the best penetrating oil I have ever used.

funjumper

I talked to a very experienced Toyota mechanic. He says that pulling out the 3vze and leaving in the compressor is pretty easy.

Leave the bracket on the motor and disconnect the four bolts holding the compressor onto the mount. The compressor is connected via flex lines, so you can move it out of the way enough to pull the 3vze. Highly recommended is a second person while pulling/installing the motors. This person can guide the motor(s) so as to avoid munging anything. Always a good idea anyway. Put the compressor bracket on the 5vze before installing the motor. The compressor should bolt right up. The next issue is swapping the V-belt pulley out.

The parts diagrams we looked at show a lot of different version of the compressor pulleys. The cost for a new pulley was between US$130-600 or so, depending on which and how many parts were needed. I have a beat up pulley that came with a beat up used compressor. I cleaned it up and I'll be installing it and seeing how it goes. The cork ring is in bad shape. It will be interesting to hear the results of the crappy cork ring.

mt_goat

X2, I did too.

funjumper

Does this issue show up when installing the engine mounts and the compressor mounting bracket onto the 5VZ? In other words, can this issue be identified and resolved while the 5VZ is still on the engine stand? Or is it a matter of fitting and grinding while the 5VZ is on the hoist and being put in?

Belize Off Road Team

what does a 3.0 to a 3.4 conversion cost in american prices? with parts shipping and everything included?

funjumper

Take a look at http://www.offroadsolutions.com

They have all the info that you ask for.

I figure that I'll be into the conversion for about US$4500.00 or so. I haven't kept an accurate log. I don't really want to know... ;-)

breknraj

Funjumper,

I had to do some grinding on the housing of the A/C compressor, because the cast 3.0 motor mounts were thicker than the pressed 3.4 mounts. Since you are trying to keep your existing A/C, it probably won't be an issue for you. I was adding A/C along with my 3.4 swap, since my truck had never had it.

My guess is that yours should bolt right up, since it will be a 3.0 motor mount, and a 3.0 A/C compressor. I was using the 3.4 compressor.

It's in this part of my thread, starting at post # 62:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...light=3.4+swap

AllJumpStyle

I've been browsing for more info on wiring for my 22R to 3.4 swap and noticed this thread. How close are you to getting your swap done? Noticed that you're in SLO, and I'm about to start mine as well.

funjumper

I am pretty close to finishing up the conversion. I have an appointment on 1/11/08 for the exhaust shop to fab the 2.5" exhaust.

I could use some advice as to which way to route the engine wiring to the transmission and O2 sensors. The ORS crossover is right in the area that the wiring will pass through.

I can go under the crossover, across the transmission, and end up on the passenger side, where the original wiring was. This puts the wire under the crossover. I can protect the wire with some heat shielding.

I can go down the driver's side frame rail (2" lift is in) and secure the wires so that there is no interference with the torsion bars and suspension. I'll have to route the wiring from the O2 sensors over the exhaust system.

Or I can do something else. What would that "something else" be? ANy suggestions?

funjumper

Bump.

There must be some ideas out there.

Willcipher

Run the pre and post cat sensor wires through the cab, that's what I did. I used shielded wiring like the original and ran it across the dash and through the factory rubber grommet under the driver's seat, following the same path as the 3.0 O2 sensor.. It looks factory and eliminates the extra wiring going around the motor and down the transmission.

breknraj

I ran my front O2 sensor just like the original one, and I ran the rear one down the passeger side frame rail, and then crossed it to the driver's side near the back of the cab, zip tying it along the way, out of the way of the driveshaft. I just took advantage of whatever holes and brackets that were available to keep it clean, and it has worked pretty well.