Once you determine the plate isn't sticking and the cable has slack, adjust the Idle with the idle screw. It'll be sucking more air thru there now that it's clean.

regarding the oxygen sensor you can inspect the ceramic shielding for cracks or other damage. this will tell you if it was damaged in the backfire event, well damaged in that way, it won't tell you if it's just not reading w/in calibrated levels.

Do you have the owners manual, it lists the recommended shift points. When are you shifting?

Welcome home, now get back to work

 

Ill make sure to check this evening and make sure its not sticking. I also didnt think about it being "over-clean....makes sense though. Ill take a look at the butterfly and make sure its moving freely. Preciate the advice and ill let you know what I come up with.

 

Thanks for the welcome and lighting the under my a**!
I got the FSM off of here yesterday, would the shift points be in there or just the owners manual? I don't have one of those. Now that I think about it...I don't guess ive ever really payed attention to when I shift. I just listen to the motor most of the time but when I go to lunch today ill try to pay attention and ill report back.

 

Ok so I just got back from lunch and from what I can tell im shifting at about 2800 in every gear. Just to give everyone an idea of what its doing....it feels like someone is slighty tugging the truck as I accelerate in every gear. Its not like an all out buck....its just a slight tug here and there but its through every gear. Hope this helps.

 

Just a thought but if you have the button where it says ECT I think and beside it, it has normal or power and the light for the power option is on it'll cause it to shift in higher rpms, I believe that's for towing stuff cause my other yota I had did that and it was just on power mode but when I switched it to normal it shifted at the right rpms.

 

Mine is a 5 speed....?

 

Oh ya I didn't see that till I just read the first page. My bad.

 

No worries....thanks for the idea.

 

I had the same issue on my truck. Accelerates fine past ~2500-3000 RPMs but below that it feels sluggish and feels like something is holding it back? Now to just remember what I did to fix it...

I did a valve adjustment, had the injectors professionally cleaned, replaced the ECT, CSIS, replaced gaskets on TB, EGR, and CSI. One of those fixed my issue along the way

Basically, you'll need to start with the easy fixes and work your way up. It's hard to diagnose because everything is functioning, but something is not functioning well.

Start with running a couple of injector cleaners through your gas tank. Double up for more potency. If it does improve, you can either just run those regularly or pull them out and mail to Dr. Injector or Witch Hunter (I recommend Dr. Injector in Rancho Cordova personally, great guy to work with). My injectors were not in bad shape, flowed 42-45 ccs before, 48 ccs after, I had the professional cleaning done more for longevity.

Check for vacuum leaks with a can of carb cleaner with the engine running. Spray on EVERY vacuum line on both ends and if you notice a change in idle, there's a leak. Check around the EGR, CSIS, and Throttle body for leaks as well.

Forgot to mention, do not do this on a HOT engine! You could start a fire...

Grab a multimeter and check the ECT (engine coolant sensor, located on back side of engine on water bypass) sensor per the service manual. This is a silent culprit since when it breaks, there's no check engine light. This is more likely your issue if it feels full of power when cold but once the engine is warm it gets sluggish. Don't bother with the CSIS (cold start injector switch), that was unique to my truck.

If you're engine wobbles a lot side-to-side, you've most likely got a valve out of spec. That's why I did a valve adjustment and made a HUGE improvement on performance! It's a weekend job though and you'll need the right tools to remove the valve shims and measure correctly. Have a compression test done first (and possibly a leak down as well to confirm), any cylinders showing a low PSI rating (stock is 165-171) most likely have a valve out of adjustment.

These are not sure fire fixes, just what I did to improve performance. Every engine is unique in its issues so take this as a suggestion, not a to-do list.

 

Thanks for the advice....ill be out of town again this weekend but im going to run down this list when I get back and try to troubleshoot the issue. Ill post up what I find.

 

So you guys are never going to believe this but I swear its true. I was on my way home friday and I started smelling rotten eggs. I googled it and it said it was either the catalytic converter or the battery. Well I knew that it wasnt the cat because its brand new so I pulled over at walmart and popped the hood. What do ya know, the battery is spitting out acid. It had been giving problems and I was charging it almost every other day but I never thought it was that bad. Anyway, I run inside walmart and grab another battery...crank up the truck and it runs like crap for about 5 minutes. Drove it the rest of the way home and HOLY $&*! my hesistation is GONE. It was still idling high when I got it home so I adjusted that and now its running better than it ever has. A BATTERY.....really? LoL I guess it had some adverse effect on something that was causing it to hesititate intermittently. Oh well.....all good now! Thanks again everyone for the advice and ill make sure to post back in a few to update how its running. KCCO!!!

 

I know I said every situation is unique... I've never heard that one before! You must have had a really messed up battery!

Keep an eye on it and let us know if any of the problems return. By switching out the battery you also reset the ECU, so after a few days of driving the issues will return if they were not battery related.

 

This is a great point. I really hope for your sake that it was the battery causing the issue, but it could simply be that when you switched it out your cleared the ecu and so right now its still trying to figure everything out again. If the issues come back then my assumption would be that its a sensor causing your issues.

 

I know that trick well because I reset my MFI fuse every 2-3 days for a month or so until I had the time to fix it. Tricked my truck into running ok for a while instead of terribly lean!