I know I should be kicked in the head for attemping a rebuild on a 3vz, but i really don't feel like trying to track down all the necessary parts for a 3.4 or even a 4.3. I have the block, (nearly stripped now) and have a couple of questions for the experts.

First, what is this



it's right in the valley between the cylinders.



The Toyota stealership wasn't sure, they thought it was either a knock sensor, water temp sensor, or a water press. sensor.

Second is the oil cooler.


driver's side of the block...





At over $600 from Toyota, I am very tempted to try and bypass this thing. It works kind of like a filter, only it circulates coolant from the water pump around it then into the block. If it ever fails, I would suspect oil and coolant mixing and doing big damage. Has anyone ever bypassed one with success, or failure, how well does it really work?

 

The first thing is the knock sensor. The oil cooler, I wouldn't bypass. You can replace the o-rings on them. I replaced the washer and o-rings on mine, but didn't attempt to bypass it. After the replacement, i don't have a leak there. I doubt that that design would really fail, unless it was externally damaged. I do have a block at home that has something that blocks off that passage, but I don't know how the water hoses were run.

I'll take a look when I get home.

 

Anywhere else to get a knock sensor other than the dealer?

 

Pay the money for dealer knock sensor. I ordered mine from the dealer here on YT who's located in Houston; significant discounts! (25% or more)

There were 2 or 3 o-rings that come with a rebuild kit that will fix any issues you have with the oil cooler. It's a piece of cake compared to some of the other $h!t you'll have to deal with. Read the link in my sig for details. There are at least 5 VERY good threads on here about the 3vze rebuild; I highly suggest absorbing them all before you go any further....

Good luck~

 

1988 through 1990 (?) 3vzes didnt have the oil cooler, but a 91+ cooler will bolt right on, so blocking it off on yours shouldn't be an issue. You would have to do something about the little coolant hose coming off the side of the water pump, and find the proper plug for the block. As for the knock sensor, I got mine from 1st toyota parts for $145

 

From what I've read, the cooler came on trucks & 4Runners with the tow package option. My '89 truck had one.

wii_tard, I bought the cooler, valve, O-rings & both hoses at the time I was going to rebuild the 3.0 and now I'm stuck with parts I'll never use. If you are interested I'll sell everything together REALLY, REALLY CHEAP.

 

how much are you talking about cadman? And any idea on the shipping to 37921? Some have said that I don't need to replace it, but I don't know what this engine has been through, with that, I want to make it as new as possible.

 

I have found knock sensors on ebay, check the local bone yard as well. I got mine from ebay for a 22re.

 

Cadman, I am interested in purchasing these if wii_tard doesn't. I am just getting ready to do some work where I will need most of these parts. Please PM me.

Thanks,
Jason

 

Dont bypass the oil cooler , just clean it up and put new o rings . The o rings are cheap at the dealer.
I had to clean one that had the coolant lines completely clogged up at the oil cooler.

As far as them not available on the 88-90 models , that is not true I have an 88 4runner that has it and the last 2 4runners I parted out were 90 models and both had them.

 

The knock sensor for the 91 3.0 4runner was also used in these cars, the wire for the knock sensor is cheap at the dealer.


Niehoff Ignition Detonation (Knock) Sensor:

Part Number: WA1729
This product fits the following vehicles - click on a vehicle to see detailed engine information.
Lexus
1990 LS400
1988 - 1991 4Runner
1991 MR2
1988 - 1991 Celica
1988 - 1991 Pickup

 

hey wii_tarded, i just got thru rebuilding my 3vz motor 7,000 miles ago, and all you have to do is clean and blow the oil cooler out. The O-rings and gaskets you have to get thru the dealer, every parts store i tried they couldn't cross it and as for the knock sensor there are 2 types and i got mine thru O'reilly auto parts. they can cross ref it and its half the price. Don't take short cuts they will cost u in the long run, replace what you can when you got it out, it is lot easier to mess with.

 

That's what I'm planning on. This is a block that I have out and on a stand. Trying to finish it before the one in my runner detonates.

 

BUMP.....Anybody there with the Downey Off-road Headers on their 4x4 Runner? I need to know how the exhaust was routed under the truck?

 

also, what is the drivability of a runner without the sway bars? Mine is still a daily driver, with some interstate mileage. without the sway bars, will I notice a big difference on the road?

 

I have some but have not installed them yet.
If you have the 5 speed you can bring the passanger side back around the transfer case.
If you have the auto you will have to remove the cooler to do thet or just go under the tranny , I know this will bring the pipe very low but thats all I have seen people do with the headers.

 

when you have yours on, could you take a few pics and pm them to me?

 

If you remove the sway bars, your will have MAJOR top-heavy feel, steering won't be as sharp, as well as a tendency to understeer then at the limit toss the rearend out. I don't advise it. My $.02.

 

Well hey, it was nice to meet you today! Even though being chased down Western Ave. wasnt really the way i would have done it haha. If ya ever need an extra hand doin whatever gimme a shout im only a few miles away!

 

hey wii tarded, check out these guys for your build. i used their gasket set, head studs and i may also get the redesigned heads. i did the 3vze in a week with a chainsaw wound to my leg. it's not a difficult build, but make sure your do replace everything possible, especially piston rings and your valve guides.
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