Yeah I'm following. That would explain the buzzing sound I get when I turn the key to the #2 position on the key .It buzzes for about 5 seconds. I'll test it @ first light in the a.m.That should give me the answer.Thanks btw your post came through . The system must of gone a little haywire today all my pm's I received were double posted but they still made it.

 

Great call Matthew......The switch was bad. I had it out by noon. Had to pull the dash to get to the little screw that holds switch to steering column. I pmed you.

 

Holy Cow; let's hope that's it! Man, you've been through the ringer on this, Pete....

 

I feel like I'm out of the frying pan into the fire. I'm a proud yotatech member and I can do this .It is getting like that show on speed (chop cut rebuild)If I was smart I should fix My broken clutch bracket and broken e-brake now that everything is out . Now that I have taken the whole dash out tracing and organizing after-market wiring job.I still think Im going to find a remote kill switch some where from the old alarm system. There are a lot of old sound system wiring that go nowhere and old alarm system that go right to the harness side of the ignition switch plug. Now with the dash out the boogy man can't hide under there any more.

 

Pete, why do you keep posting a new thread every time you have another question?? Why not keep it all here in one thread so folks can follow along??!? ;-)

BTW: Any luck?

 

Yes I understand what you mean about the threads. I'm just all jammed up with my truck not running . I'll keep it right here from now on.
Well my progress is this. When I was in question about the new distributor and the wire color difference. Napa manager @ the store where I bought my distributor re-ordered another distributor. When I picked it up he had downloaded a lot of wiring diagrams. The diagram for my ecm (10-prong 18-prong 24-prong)was with the papers he gave me.It showed me were the location of the wires and the wire colors. Yesterday I pulled the ecm and checked it for voltage and it had it and it had continuity to ground but I seem to be getting no signal from the igniter.I also checked the cel and it had voltage @ the ecm. I also checked the igniter by doing tap test from thread http://www.yotatech.com/f2/no-start-...-89-95-a-10543 and igniter failed that test. The coil passed the test and the distributor passed the resistance test. I ordered a new igniter and I'm going to pick it up after I post this . I'll keep my fingers crossed . I'll post on this thread with my results.

 

I'll keep my toes crossed.....since you have the fingers covered.

 

I should have crossed my toes . I pulled a real brainless move. When I pulled the distributor out I set the tdc@ 0 degrees but when I went to check it I was a little past it so I backed it up a hair and left it on the crankcase bolt.I put the new distributor in and turned it over only a couple of times and had no spark.Then I tested the igniter and decided it was bad and ordered it last night. I got the new igniter and put it in and turned the truck over and hear metal crunching .That when I realized what I had done. When I got the ratchet untangled it was set on out so the bolt backed out but it sheared the threads inside. I tried to thread it back in but the bolt thread a little but threads must be stripped.I believe it threads into the bottom timing belt gear. So now my small project turned into my nightmare.
I'm not sure what to do but I'm sure I gotta fix it. Time for an education!!!
I know I'm still missing something with the no spark condition.but for now that's on hold. I gotta fix this mistake before I can go forward.
I'll post some pictures when Ifigure out how to.

 

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It doesn't look good to me.

 

Sorry to hear that, Pete. *big sigh*

I've done that before....left the ratchet on the crank bolt when I was adjusting valves. Nothing like feeling brainless. Nothing bad happened to mine, so maybe you're lucky and all you have to do is replace the gear. I believe that's where the bolt threads in, but I've never had my 3.0 torn down that far....so not sure. It's possible you could rethread it, but I'm not sure that would be trustworthy. You will probably atleast have to pull the no.2 cover off and turn the belt around to see if any teeth on the belt stripped off. Atleast, I would check it. Also, to see if the cams and crank got out of alignment. It might just be fine, though. People do use that method to loosen the crank bolt. Maybe someone else has better input on that.

Look on the brightside, Pete. Worst case scenario is a timing belt replacement. No real major engine work. A timing belt is a one day project and relatively inexpensive. It requires a bunch of wrenching, but it's really simple. I know...it means more money and more down time, though. Ungh...

 

Well I'll know more tomorrow. I'm hoping for just the gear.I'll start the tear down in the a.m.and I'll keep posting here.

 

well I have it torn down. I have the #1 timing cover off The tdc is @0* and the left timing cam and right cam are aligned with the Mark but the timing belt marks are off.I'm not sure if I more the belt when i pull it off or make new marks. I marked the belt with a marker.I have the crank pulley off but stopped there tonight.I'm not sure if where the bolt screws in is the end of the crankcase.I'll post pictures of the belt if I need to.

 

[QUOTE=pete f;50712404]well I have it torn down. I have the #1 timing cover off The tdc is @0* and the left timing cam and right cam are aligned with the Mark but the timing belt marks are off.I'm not sure if I more the belt when i pull it off or make new marks. I marked the belt with a marker.I have the crank pulley off but stopped there tonight.I'm not sure if where the bolt screws in is the end of the crankcase.I'll post pictures of the belt if I need to.[/QUOTE[/IMG]
sorry I didn't flip it but should I take the belt off and align the marks?

 

Should I move this factory Mark to the alignment mark on the right cam.

 

Well I was able to file the threads back (they were banged up @the end of the crankcase bolt) and get the bolt threaded into the crankcase . The timing belt appeared to be in good shape so I got it all back together and I'm back to square 1. I still have no spark so tomorrow I will go back over the ignition again. I have replaced everything so it all points to something overlooked.

 

The something I overlooked was when I replaced the efi main relay. The parts guy gave me the wrong one.When I was checking the Ignition system I found I had power @ the fuse box in the engine compartment. I took a wire and jumped the efi circuit and heard something energize on the engine . I tried to start it and it started. I got my cel back and ran the codes and it showed no malfunctions. I ordered the right fuse from Toyota. I'm going to wait till I have the new fuse to restart the engine and time it.

 

Congrats for sticking with it, Pete! I know electrical gremlins can be a royal pain in the @$$; good job!

 

Thanks Gary
I couldn't have done it without your support. Thook's support too. What a great sound when it fired off. I can't wait until tomorrow to get it going and timed.
Thanks again!!!!

 

Yay Pete!

How's it going so far?

 

I talked with him last night; still having issues. He was checking the wiring harness for breaks last night...