the shoulders face different ways. One is towards the engine one is towards the front of the truck.

 

DOes it matter which is which?

currently they are both have shoulders on the front side of the gear, facing the front of the truck.

 

Mine had a lip out and lip in as you see in my pics above from the factory. The only way it might matter is to help keep the Tbelt tracking true and center....

Aside from that I cant think of a reason else.

 

Got the front cover back on and cranked it, ran fine. popped the rad back in buttened everything up, cranked it and it ran fine for about 160 seconds, then started smokeing like crazy out of the exhaust pipe.

checked , the oil level is up, and water is down.

Im hopeing it damaged an intake mani gasket when it backfired.

its not skipping, so I think it has good compression, and is running on all 6.

grrrrrr.

I have considered transplanting a V-W turbodiesel in this baby, so I'd get 30+ MPG, but I really want to get this one running right so I could at least sell the motor for big bucks.

 

what color smoke and what did it smell like?

The coolant being low scares me.....you didnt reuse your headbolts did ya? The OEM units are TTY (torque to yield) which SUCK!!! When I went through the de-torquing sequence on my driver's side head some where torqued WAY down and others were barely finger tight!!!! I was like Whiskey Tango Foxtrot!!

but yeah I hope you didnt use your oem head bolts.

 

I used new head bolts.

i pulled the intake,
It seems that the gasket between the intake and head was messed up on one side. but that wouldnt account for the smoke.

I cant think of any way the oil could be getting in the engine, although the PCV tube was loaded with oil, could be sucking the oil in that way,

it appeared and smelled like oil smoke, not steam.

but that still doesnt account for the water in the oil, my oil level has gone up and looks tan colored.

can I reuse the intake gaskets or should I get new ones, and also should I use black or grey FIPG on the valve covers?

the ones I pulled off were grey and looked great, I should have just left them.

I will do a compression check later and see, but the engine runs smooth, doesnt skip.

I stripped the head on one of the head bolts though, when I was installing them a couple of weeks ago.

how do you strip a grade 8 bolt?

 

well stock head bolts are grade 8, they are TTY which is a torque to yeild and the bolt itself strecthes... I may be wrong but I dont think grade 8s will stretch or bend.... I thought they just snapped, but took a helluva lot more force to do so.

hence why im grabbing some Enginebuilder's grade 10.5 headbolts! I need to ask him what he thinks these beasts should be torqued down to and what's the max torque...

 

I got these bolts from engnbldr, paid good money for em too. and the head just rounded off on one of em.

 

oh wow! hmmm definately give him a call...

 

I thought about that, but see no point. I cant get it out, and if I take out one bolt, dont I have to replace and retorque all of them?

Should I use some type of sealant on the intake gaskets at the head?

 

This is a stupid question, but were you using a 6 point quality socket?

 

sounds like headgasket to me.


not for sure, but i think englbldrs head bolts are 12 point. most high strength bolts used for critical stuff is. i know for a fact the rod bolts are 12point, but not sure on the head bolts.

 

agreed oem headbolts are 12pt 14mm, and iirc his are 12pt 16mm grade 10.5s....hmmm

Moto - how much torque did you apply to his headbolt before it rounded off?

 

tqed it to 30 ft lbs then did the 90* & 90*, didnt have any prob with any other bolts.

most would up at about 60 lbs to do the 180*.