roundhouse

Finished the HG replacement.

set the crank to 0*, set the dist pointing to the wiring harness plug, which appeared to be the #1 cyl.

all I got was a pop and lots of grey smoke under the intake,
I can hear an occaisional puff and poof in the exhaust but wont run, I pulled a plug wire and have spark.
I can smell the burned duel, smells like my lawn mower. so I assume I am getting fuel, although Im not sure how to check with out a schrader valve, other than loosening a fitting,

I rotated the dist 180 incase that is was out. but no luck.

I also have a major oil leak under the valve covers, just at cranking it with the starter, yippie.

Any suggestions??

04 Rocko Taco

Sorry, no help here, but figured I would let you knwo I looked, and it sounds nasty. I figure this is a bump anyway, to bad you dont need it...yet. Im sure you'll get the help yuor looking for here though...

ChickenLover

Take a look at the dist, there are a couple of notches you have to line up. There is also a mark where you insert the dist. Line 'em all up and put it in.

Bumpin' Yota

chicken, can you be more specific? I have pulled my distributor and can only find 1 mark on the top of it's gearset. It sounds like Ill have to align 3 marks? Where are they?

ChickenLover

ovrrdrive

When you're 180 degrees out of time its not the distributor that needs to be rotated 180 it's the cam. If the V6 is anything like the 22re you rotate the crank 360 to get back to #1 TDC at the compression stroke. There two #1 TDC's. There is the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke. You have to set timing on the compression stroke.

Rotating the dist 180 just places the rotor at the wrong cylinder doesn't it?


It sounds to me like you're either 180 degrees out of time or you have a bunch of spark plug wires on the wrong plugs or something.

Ganoid

Just like chicken said but be sure to let the dist turn as you insert it to get proper gear mesh. Its one of those line them up then insert and twist deals. Keep in mind that when you turn the crank to TDC that it could be TDC on the end of the exhaust stroke and not the start of the power stroke, Just make sure both valves are closed and not on the either ramp of opening in the next few degrees. Keep in mind the crank goes around twice to every revolution of the cams. Every time I have had mine out its been spot on upon reassembly its amazing how close those ornamentals got all the marks and tolerances on these Toyota motors.


looking at your result "smoke out the intake" I expect this is your problem as the intake would be opening right as your plug fires if your 1 rev out of time.


Edit... Ovrrdrive beat me to it.

TNRabbit

I'd be very concerned about the OIL LEAK you mentioned; did you say it was BELOW the valve cover or FROM the valve cover? Could the timing being out of whack have blown your head gasket again??!?

Bumpin' Yota

did you remember to bolt the oil seal on the backside of the valve cover? dont do that and youll have oil EVERYWHERE in no time flat. That section is pressurized and is how oil goes inside the cam and out the bearing surfaces...

roundhouse

The oil leak is from between the VC and the head.

So the V-6 has the marks on the dist and the cam?

I was just moving the dist 180, I thought that would work, but the more I think abbout it, I can see where I would need to pull the dist and rotate the engine 180 and drop it back in.

I dont have to go in to work till 3Pm today so I'll try it this morning and see what happens,
either way I gotta pull the intake and the VC's again and buy another tube of FIPG and re-do the gaskets. It drips alot just cranking it with the starter, if the engine actually runs, it would probably spray my garage wall.

i still havent figured out where the grey smoke came from, it was under the upper intake somewhere.

Bumpin' Yota

Spray oil? wow!

Thank you Chicken! Ill get some pics of my dist to go along with those marks to help! hehe

roundhouse

I see onemark on the dist housing tube, but no others on the shaft, where exactly are they?

snap-on

I took and old cap and cut it in half and used that to get the rotor close.

IF i remember right when i was trying to set mine the lines they refer too looked more like parting/flash lines on the casting than real indicators.

AS for your oil leak, did you use RTV under the last 2 bearing caps on the cam?

and did you follow a proper tighting sequence for the valve cover? sounds like you got a gasket FUBAR 'd some how.

Bumpin' Yota

also are you sure you didnt break one of the valve cover bolts? Some of mine were twisting off like wet noodles with as little as 10ftlbs of tq!! If a couple of the bolts broke around the area you could have leakage there.

roundhouse

Didnt break any bolts, I can re do the gaskets no biggie, I just want it to run! even with an oil leak.

I pulled the timing covers and cheecked, the arrows on the cams point up and the key on the crank points down.

I think
this is correct.

I pulled the dist and rotated the crank 1 turn and re-installed, but no change.

gonna pull the plugs and check the compression.


what else should I check.?

Bumpin' Yota

The crank is 180* out of phase with the cams.

There is a key on the crank gear itself that should line up with a key on the oil pump housing. Then make sure the keys on the cam gears line up with the keys on the rear metal timing gear cover. Ill post pics of that specifically right now.

roundhouse

The key on the crank is supposed to point up?
I thought the mark on the belt lined up with the key on the crank.

Bumpin' Yota

roundhouse

OK the pics help

I will pull the belt and try again.

Need to get this baby running.

My Current Daily Driver has no A/C, and the T-case has started poping out of 2 hi about 5 times on the 10 mile trip to work.
getting really frustrating.

roundhouse

Houston, we have Liftoff!

Woo Hoo!

Thanks Bumpin' Yota,

You guys rock!
(and I'm a dufuss)

had to fiddle with the dist a bit to get it to fire up, but first time I could tell it was trying to run.

I rotated the dist all the way clockwise as far as it would go and it almost cranked, so I pulled it out and moved it a couple of teeth.

which way advances the timing CW or CCW?

Also one other question. the manual
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf
shows the cam gears with the shoulder facing in twards the engine, mine are facing out and were that way when I took them off because the paint marks were still on them from the previous HG job.
does it matter?

I still gotta fix the oil leak, I guess I didnt put the FIPG on thick enough.