92yotarunner

I have a 95 4runner, auto, 3.0, 4x4, 223K miles.

I just bought it probably about a week ago.
I was recently having issues with it overheating when going uphill. I replaced the tstat, and radiator cap. Now it does fine on hills, no overheating.
I replaced those about 3 days ago.

Today, I drove it to my girlfriends house about 5 minutes away. It idled for about 3 minutes without me in the car. I came back out, and the CEL was on and I smelled a sulfur smell. Got home, Checked for codes.
I have done my research and the codes are
14- Ignition Signal
25- Air-Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction
26- Air-Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction

25 and 26 confused me. Lean, and Rich??

I have searched the forums, and google... I'm really just getting mixed messages with particularly these two codes.

Any suggestions as to what to check first?
Thank you in advance.

also, I'm interested in the ignition signal but more-so, the 25, and 26...
thanks

sb5walker

Since it's new to you, and it's a 3vze with fairly high miles, I would start with a compression test.

Other thoughts are: clogged cat, clogged pcv valve, bad coil. Check both circuits of coil when hot, using hot specs (of course):
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...12onvehicl.pdf

Code 14 means no ignition confirmation signal was received by the ecu from igniter, but it's a code that can come up if there are other problems with the general running of the motor, so if coil is okay I would check the basics and see if you still get the code.

Have you done a tune up on it yet? I've found the best plugs for my veezy are the stock Denso K16R-U - nothing else works as well. Take note of the appearance of each cylinder's plug - that'll tell you how they're running. If some are rich and some lean, then you probably have some clogged injectors. Run a bottle of injector cleaner that has polyether amine - the only really effective injector cleaner. Only two products that still have it, as far as I know, are Red Line SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner and CRC's "Guaranteed to Pass - Emissions Test Formula". Techron & Regane no longer do. When some cyls are rich and others lean, the computer has a hard time calibrating mixture and you might get mixture codes from that.

The distributor cap should be changed with with plugs. Denso rotors outlast the caps, but if not Denso, replace that too. Timing should be 10 to 12 deg btdc with the TE1-E1 jumper set. Spec is 10 and use that for emissions tests. But 12 deg gives a bit more power & snappier throttle response. If plug wires are hard, inflexible, cracked or tracked up with carbon, replace those, too. sparkplugs.com has good prices, or you can get the part # from there & search for 'denso' and the part # on amazon - they've been real cheap there, too.

Check the air hose between the air meter & throttle body for cracks, particularly in the rubber elbow sections. That will mess up mixture.

See if throttle body needs cleaning - check back of throttle plate. Use throttle-body cleaner, toothbrush & rags to clean, be sure to keep all solvent out of and off of the tps - solvent kills it.

If all that doesn't get it running better, get out the multimeter & check the O2 sensor (check the O2 sensor switching in the check connector - don't bother checking the ohms of the sensor itself since that's just the heater & you'll get a code 21 if it burns out). And check the TPS and VAFM too. Check the ECT if nothing else comes up bad. Best way to check the ECT is to backprobe the THW & E2 terms on the ecu when motor hot and ignition on - should be .2 to 1 volts. See page EG2-192: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...86troubles.pdf

Could also be a bad connection or ground.

Good luck.