So what happened to this build? Any updates suprathepeg?

 

Will be building exhaust in the next little while and hopefully hit the dyno.

 

Im kinda curious whats goin on also

 

I'm also very interested in this. Just picked up a 94 with 160k. Not looking to beef it up, as my 350z is the project/toy, but looking to get better power with economy. In the process of yanking out the plugs, replacing the wires, possibly getting a K&N cai, and probably going to drain all the tranny/diff fluids and replacing with good quality synthetics.

Not going to use M1 oil, as it has a tendency to thin out under heat (which the 3vze creates a ton of) and burn off. Probably going to use Pennzoil Plat, which as excellent reviews and is a full syn base (unlike M1 now), or the Quaker State 4x4 stuff.

Got kind of a rough idle, around 500rpm....I'm thinking valve cover leak maybe?

Also I want to bump the ignition timing up a degree or so for response.

 

Well so far I can tell you it aint cheep.

 

The heads ARE the same. They are the same exact aluminum casting and can be used for either side. Only things different are the way you face the cam in the head and the longer bearing caps. One cap has the distributor mounting on it and the other is closed. Of course the cams can't be swapped side to side, so the heads have to be set up for each particular side.

My dad had his heads rebuilt, and the original driver's side was trashed. The machine shop used a spare passenger side head that we supplied, swapped the long bearing cap and the cam, and rebuilt it as a driver's side head. Worked out great! Now if you just take a used head and do this, you must check/reshim the valve clearances to fit the exchanged cam. Since we were getting it rebuilt, it was done at the machine shop.

 

My truck is a 90 SR5 with a 3.0 with 188 thousand miles on it. The engine has low compression on #3. I would like to know should I rebuild the 3.0 or swap it for a 22re? It seems that the 22re is a more desired engine

 

22re will have quite a bit less power unless you put some $ into it. How many times do I have to answer that question?

You likely have a burnt valve.

 

and even with a lot of money and a turbo its questionable if it will achieve 190hp which a 3vze should have no issues achieving while being normally aspirated.

 

if you are talking about 3vze heads, yes they are symmetrical... They are just flipped 180* from each other.

 

Supra any updates?

 

Well first off the heads are not exactly the same there are some minor differences that won't allow you to get them mixed up.

Other then that there are no updates. the engine runs good and I've been really slow on my crossover build. You won't believe how hard it is to find a extra exhaust system when you want one.

 

So here is an update. I've been running hot ever since the original build and install about 5 months ago. Initially the engine was overheating now its just holding at 200*. Taurus fan mod helped quite a bit, drilling a couple holes in a t-stat helped a bit but caused warmup problems. New rad helped too but its still too hot for my liking.

So I have a buddy who works in a machine shop, he is making a spacer for the t-stat on the waterpump. It will allow me to run a t-stat from a 5vzfe which is larger then the 3vze one, if on a hot day thats not enough then I can at least use the TRD one for the 5vzfe. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

when are you going ot dyno it? who cares if yu ave the exhaust onit or not yet. we jsut want to see what it does in power band and ranges at this point. you can redyno later. Sheeh

 

^ most shops wont allow that....dynos are indoors and the exhaust has to be routed OUTside or /you

 

Whats going on with this build up?

Ive been reding for months hanging to see how this thing goes!!!

 

So after chasing a cooling problem that I have sort of solved by running no thermostat in the summer. I have started to make further progress.

Firstly. My cooling problem is coolant flow. After just doing an engine for another local yota owner I have noticed that the HGs that I ordered from EB and used on the latest engine have larger openings for coolant etc then the one I used on my build (also ordered from EB) I believe the new gasket is a rock unit while the other is unknown (can't remember). I may change the gaskets in the future if/when I do cams in hopes that a better HG will help.

Secondly, I've finally started building my exhaust system. I went from the stock system less CAT and am running 2.25" from just after the o2 sensor to a 2.5" Cherry Bomb turbo muffler and 2.5" out. This is still with the stock manifolds x-over in place.

The exhaust has made a night and day difference. I have power all over the place from about 1700RPM to redline. I can hit almost 30mph in 1st if I romp on it with little effort. IMHO this is the way the 3.0 should have run. The truck has no problem "getting out of its own way" and I stay off the throttle

The engine runs cooler for sure (this may help my cooling problem). If I run the Taurus fan on high speed it cools too much (remimber I'm not running a t-stat) and temperatures are hard to control with the crappy hayden unit.

My milage is significantly better with city driving going from an average 12.5mpg to at least 15.5 and that with me putting my foot in it quite a bit cause I'm loving it lol . I'm hoping I can get better milage if I continue tweeking things. I need new plug wires for sure and I'm thinking the TPS could use some attention.

All in all the exhaust has been the cheepest and best bang for your buck thing I have done to this engine and I plan to do more including addressing the crossover.

I wonder if a bored throttlebody would show promise on this engine? From what little research I've done it seems that there are two areas where the Toyota fuel injection could be a lot more fuel effient one being the batch firing injectors and under heavy throttle such as that used to accelerate from a stop etc. If I can find someone local who knows Megasquirt I'd really like to see what a better ECU would accomplish in this engine.

Finally I raced an older 5.0 mustang light to light (haven't done it for years so get off my back lol) and he only had me by .5 of a car length and I was just out of 1st when he let off so I felt pretty good about my 3.slow. Of course the condition of the stang is entirely unknown but I'm happy.

 

Interesting... so you're still running CATless? How does that get past smog check in MAN.? I'm running 2.5" from just after the manifold joint with a free-flow CAT/Muffler and getting much the same results power wise... still working out my mileage {again} after getting her back from the bodyshop...
What is this "megasquirt"?
Prost Aviator

 

hey man , can you share any info with me on a 3.0 to 3.4 swap on a 93 4runner , I just want to do the engine swap , and maybe a automatic to 5 speed swap as well

 

Back from the dead??? Heheh well the truck sat for almost two years and I pulled it back into the world this winter. Here is the update with how the engine is running.

1. The coolant issue was my dumbass move of putting the gaskets on the wrong sides, new gaskets installed properly fixed it.

2. Taurus fan is gone, I went back to the factory setup. IMHO this is way overrated unless you submerge your truck on a regular basis.

3. I'm running about 18* of advance on regular pump gas with no issues.

4. I talked to Colt Cams today about their 3.0 cams, these are the guys that were making the cams for sea2sky. I'm pretty sure that I'll be running these sometime in the summer. My feeling is that this is about as much performance as the stock injectors can handle any more and larger injectors will be necessary.

5. I did the ISR mod and immediately noticed the engine running better. It pulls fast and smooth, I feel pretty confident driving anywhere, ripping up to 65mph in 3rd is no problem at all.

Next on the list right now is installing an A/F gauge and then the Camry AFM. This summer God willing I'll get the cams goin.