I just picked up a '90 with 3VZE that needs HG and I keep reading about headers/crossover delete to help keep heat away from #6 cylinder, but the headers are typically around $600. Has anyone used these cheap header kits <$300? it seems like they have everything needed compared to the Thorley kit. I can't find any reviews on the forums and most of the header posts are old - I am assuming these cheap kits have popped up in the last couple of years. Don't bother saying, "you get what you pay for", if you haven't actually used them. TIA.

 

any text to go along with your ebay picture?

 

Could you not see my writing? It looks like the text was black on black?

I just picked up a '90 with 3VZE that needs HG and I keep reading about headers/crossover delete to help keep heat away from #6 cylinder, but the headers are typically around $600. Has anyone used these cheap header kits <$300? it seems like they have everything needed compared to the Thorley kit. I can't find any reviews on the forums and most of the header posts are old - I am assuming these cheap kits have popped up in the last couple of years. Don't bother saying, "you get what you pay for", if you haven't actually used them. TIA.

 

 

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I am also looking at these. I am also wondering if a body lift is absolutely needed.

 

I posted a similar question to FB and got a bunch of replies, including positive reviews. It seems that both the expensive and cheap ones MAY need custom fabrication and a body lift. My plan (after fixing the HG) is to do the cheapest 2" body lift and take the cheap kit to a muffler guy to fab and weld it up.

 

Nope.

If your 3vze blew a head gasket or you're worried about it blowing a head gasket, just fix accordingly and put it back together. Keep the stock exhaust system on it.

 

How many miles on you 3VZ? The head gasket issue was a factory recall. Unfortunately, even if you have low miles they will no longer honor the recall, but if it has never been done then a new head gasket should fix you up without worry about rerouting your exhaust. I ran my 3VZ from 280,000 to 365,000 without issue.

 

If you're looking for a cheap way to keep heat down you can try exhaust heat wrap. I've heard some say it keeps the engine bay cooler but I haven't seen numbers, and I haven't ran my truck enough since my rebuild to be able to say myself. But it's cheap, it's *supposed to work, and heck it looks cool around the pipes.

 

Again, fix the problem and keep it stock. I wouldn't even waste money on the heat wrap, let alone any type of headers.

 

I just bought and installed the black horse headers. It was a straight forward install and no real issues. They sound good. My old headers fell apart when I worked on them so I bought cheap replacements.
So far I like them but I haven't actually got to drive the truck yet so I will let you know when I do.

https://youtu.be/COvKTVZd-fY

 

I recently picked up a 93 Runner v6 with 205k miles and it appears to have the original head gasket. I was planning on buying headers for it since that seems to be the recommendation from many posts. This is the first post where someone says keep it stock. If I were to keep it stock, what do y'all recommend I do to keep the headgasket from failing (for a bit longer)?
Thanks.

 

The only thing you can do is ensure your head bolts are still properly torqued. Otherwise, time takes it's toll on everything. On a low power engine like the 3.0, upgrading your headers isn't going to hurt anything.
With 205K, would you really be surprised if a 27 year old engine had a problem? If you did experience a head gasket problem, I'd say get it fixed and continue to enjoy it. I bought my 93 pickup 14 years ago with 289K. I never touched the engine til I pulled it a 365K to do a 3.4 swap. The 3.0 isn't as bad as everyone says.

 

I appreciate the reply. I would like to keep it as stock as possible for as long as I can. I'll check the specs on bolts when I replace the coolant and hoses. It still has the original radiator, should I replace it too?

 

Radiators are a pretty simple job on the 3.0, no need to change it unless you're having problems.

 

There's no way to prevent the headgasket from popping. It's an inevitable thing on the 3VZE. Just drive it until it blows and fix it accordingly. (1500-2000 at a mechanic or 800-1200 to do it yourself).

I agree with the above posts. When I first got into the Toyota game, everyone was critical because I purchased a 3VZE/5 speed and not a 22re. The 3VZE is just as reliable as the 22re, it's just a slight bit more cumbersome to work on due to the size of the motor. My 1st rig got to about 165k before i sold it and the one i have now is at 250k. Keep the 3VZE loaded up with OEM parts and regular maintenance and it'll treat you right.

 

I appreciate sharing your experiences about the 3VZE, I find that many people just recommend a 3.4 swap as soon as they hear you have a 3.0. There must be a reason Toyota stuck with it for as long as they did, regardless if they knew the design flaw.
Either way,
I plan on doing my best to keep it running as long as possible and cross the HG bridge when I get there.
On the OEM parts, are these only parts from Toyota? Is Denso considered OEM?

 

There's gasket kits available for $100-200. Maybe throw in another $150 and do the timing belt and water pump while you have it apart. I don't see any reason it would cost you more than $400 at most to do it yourself.

 

That sounds like a good deal. I just hope to keep it going for another year or so.