2800 rpm at 65 mph?? Is that right?
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2800 rpm at 65 mph?? Is that right?
I've only got about 1500 miles on this overhaul, so I know it's not broken in yet, but I'm only showing a little over 18mpg's on the freeway. I'm bone stock... is the factory gearing for my setup too much? Seems like it's revving pretty high for only going 65...
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What the heck is my factory gearing then????
I understand why it's geared low from the factory, given the original specs of output for a 22RE with an auto tranny, but I'm wondering if it's overkill now that I've upgraded the drivetrain. I say this, cause even at 65 I let off the throttle and the motor starts pulling back kinda hard, rather than "coasting." I got the setup for mild towing, but that was with "OD off" in mind. Seems like I'd be towing IN overdrive just to keep the rpm's down at freeway speeds. Hope this makes sense....
I understand why it's geared low from the factory, given the original specs of output for a 22RE with an auto tranny, but I'm wondering if it's overkill now that I've upgraded the drivetrain. I say this, cause even at 65 I let off the throttle and the motor starts pulling back kinda hard, rather than "coasting." I got the setup for mild towing, but that was with "OD off" in mind. Seems like I'd be towing IN overdrive just to keep the rpm's down at freeway speeds. Hope this makes sense....
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Did some quick online math and it occurs to me that I didn't take the extra grunt of the new drivetrain setup into account when I decided to go with the stock sized tires. Probably should have gone with 31's. Would have droped overall rpm's by about 200. Not a huge deal, but since I was buying tires anyways, probably would have been the better choice.
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Even with the power upgrades? I know it's a crystal ball question, but again, it seems like it's overrevving for it's capabilities. And only 18mpg's? I was hoping for ~22 on the highway. Maybe 1,500 miles is too early to tell...
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18 isnt bad. with a rebuild if everything is going good your going to be burning more fuel and wasting less... your getting more power for your buck but your still pumping a comparable amount of fuel into the engine just getting a more complete burn now.
give it to 3000 then you will get a better reading on mpg's keep in mind that your economy is more closely related to throttle possition than actual speed/RPM's for instance. i drive my exes cobalt thru a tank and get 32-35. when she drives it the same amount on the same roads she gets 26-29 mpg. if your heavy on the gas when accelerating and do so often your going to burn more fuel. keep in mind that 3000 rpm's at half throttle is going to go thru more fuel than 3000rpm's at 1/4 throttle. your just going to pump more fuel into the engine. throttle possition at 3000rpm in 2nd gear vs. 3000rpm in 4th gear. just using 3000 as an example but. it takes more petal pressure to hold 3000 in 2nd than in 4th right? and that means the carb/throttle body is open more to let more air in to account for the amount of fuel being pumped in right?
give it to 3000 then you will get a better reading on mpg's keep in mind that your economy is more closely related to throttle possition than actual speed/RPM's for instance. i drive my exes cobalt thru a tank and get 32-35. when she drives it the same amount on the same roads she gets 26-29 mpg. if your heavy on the gas when accelerating and do so often your going to burn more fuel. keep in mind that 3000 rpm's at half throttle is going to go thru more fuel than 3000rpm's at 1/4 throttle. your just going to pump more fuel into the engine. throttle possition at 3000rpm in 2nd gear vs. 3000rpm in 4th gear. just using 3000 as an example but. it takes more petal pressure to hold 3000 in 2nd than in 4th right? and that means the carb/throttle body is open more to let more air in to account for the amount of fuel being pumped in right?
Last edited by newbie93pickup; 12-01-2008 at 11:20 AM.
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You make a good point(s) about throttle position. I understood that idea before, and it's along the same lines of how I judge the engine "hold back" during deceleration. I'm seeing that the only good way to test my theory is to borrow some 31s and run a tank or two to get an idea. All speculation, otherwise.
Again, good points and good discussion! Thanks!
Again, good points and good discussion! Thanks!
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So much for "nice discussion."
Try reading first. MINE'S 2WD ALSO.
You're getting about a +25% difference in economy and I should be glad that an almost all new setup "just runs?"
My standards are a bit different, my friend. Spend a bunch of time and money to totally freshen your ride and see if "just runs" is good enough.
Try reading first. MINE'S 2WD ALSO.
You're getting about a +25% difference in economy and I should be glad that an almost all new setup "just runs?"
My standards are a bit different, my friend. Spend a bunch of time and money to totally freshen your ride and see if "just runs" is good enough.
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Well, yes you have a 2wd, but you are still pushing around 4wd suspension, minus the front diff, d-shaft and t-case though.
I can tell you right now, your biggest issue is the automatic. Toyota just couldnt get it right till the tacoma came along...
Swap in a 5sp and I could pretty much gaurentee that you would jump up 3+mpg and 10+hp to the wheels
In the summer time, crusing on the hwy. I have gotten up to 21mpg. That is with a lifted pickup, big flat offroad lights (hello wind resistance!) big wide mud tires (I have re-geared though). I have seen 5sp 22re 4runners get up to 25mpg on the hwy..
I can tell you right now, your biggest issue is the automatic. Toyota just couldnt get it right till the tacoma came along...
Swap in a 5sp and I could pretty much gaurentee that you would jump up 3+mpg and 10+hp to the wheels
In the summer time, crusing on the hwy. I have gotten up to 21mpg. That is with a lifted pickup, big flat offroad lights (hello wind resistance!) big wide mud tires (I have re-geared though). I have seen 5sp 22re 4runners get up to 25mpg on the hwy..
Last edited by Jay351; 12-01-2008 at 03:06 PM.
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I was right!! (and STUPID!)
After taking the time to decode my diff from the driver's door jamb, I have a code G252... 4.56 gears! I've been thinking I had the 4.30s all along!
Apparently, mine originally had the 31" option tires on it. The good: I can upgrade! The bad: I just bought the damn 235's...
Oh well, live and learn.
After taking the time to decode my diff from the driver's door jamb, I have a code G252... 4.56 gears! I've been thinking I had the 4.30s all along!
Apparently, mine originally had the 31" option tires on it. The good: I can upgrade! The bad: I just bought the damn 235's...
Oh well, live and learn.
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Ok, found a local guy selling 31" Federal AT's on Centerlines and I scored them for $350.
Tested (primitively) my speedo while pacing a new Civic (with the BIG digital readout), as well as a local "Your current speed" sign near the a school. Both indicate that my speedo is 6% SLOWER than my actual speed. Before (on 235's) it was indicating FASTER.
Incidentally, 4.56 gears would be very close to 6% taller than 4.30 gears. Now I'm really stumped as far as what the math is vs. what I'm actually seeing. Just curiosity, though, I LOVE the 31's! Correct or not, I'm staying with 'em. Anyone have any ideas on the math? I have the G252 code on the door indicating the 4.56 gears...
Tested (primitively) my speedo while pacing a new Civic (with the BIG digital readout), as well as a local "Your current speed" sign near the a school. Both indicate that my speedo is 6% SLOWER than my actual speed. Before (on 235's) it was indicating FASTER.
Incidentally, 4.56 gears would be very close to 6% taller than 4.30 gears. Now I'm really stumped as far as what the math is vs. what I'm actually seeing. Just curiosity, though, I LOVE the 31's! Correct or not, I'm staying with 'em. Anyone have any ideas on the math? I have the G252 code on the door indicating the 4.56 gears...