22re valve tapping noise
08-07-2015, 01:20 AM
#41
It does have somewhere around 10-12k on it since he rebuilt it, so I think it will work well for a while. I am going to clean the cylinder walls really well with my hone, as they have a lot of carbon buildup from his carb issues. It has a new timing set, but I really don't like the aftermarket upper gear because it is solid, so I may swap it, if possible, with my upper gear with the holes (stock). Timing cover is new, guides are new, oil pump is new, and pistons, rods, and bearings are also all new. The top end was really bad, with a pretty healthy carbon buildup in #2 that would never let either valve close. Mine, the last time I had it off, was very clean and I'm sure it still will be.
I also found out my catalytic converter was plugged solid when I blew the engine, all I had to do was pop the hood and see that bright orange exhaust manifold. Going to replace that, along with installing a new exhaust. I need to do some shocks as well, the fronts are shot (one is fully collapsed after breaking the lower mounting eye), and I have a new clutch to install as well. I'll likely change all the fluids (front end, rear end, transfer case, and transmission) while I'm there, and grease the hub bearings. I'm hoping to swap the worn CV shafts as well, but that's going to depend on money.
I also found out my catalytic converter was plugged solid when I blew the engine, all I had to do was pop the hood and see that bright orange exhaust manifold. Going to replace that, along with installing a new exhaust. I need to do some shocks as well, the fronts are shot (one is fully collapsed after breaking the lower mounting eye), and I have a new clutch to install as well. I'll likely change all the fluids (front end, rear end, transfer case, and transmission) while I'm there, and grease the hub bearings. I'm hoping to swap the worn CV shafts as well, but that's going to depend on money.
Last edited by lectric80; 08-07-2015 at 01:21 AM.
08-08-2015, 12:19 AM
#42
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It does have somewhere around 10-12k on it since he rebuilt it, so I think it will work well for a while. I am going to clean the cylinder walls really well with my hone, as they have a lot of carbon buildup from his carb issues. It has a new timing set, but I really don't like the aftermarket upper gear because it is solid, so I may swap it, if possible, with my upper gear with the holes (stock). Timing cover is new, guides are new, oil pump is new, and pistons, rods, and bearings are also all new. The top end was really bad, with a pretty healthy carbon buildup in #2 that would never let either valve close. Mine, the last time I had it off, was very clean and I'm sure it still will be.
I also found out my catalytic converter was plugged solid when I blew the engine, all I had to do was pop the hood and see that bright orange exhaust manifold. Going to replace that, along with installing a new exhaust. I need to do some shocks as well, the fronts are shot (one is fully collapsed after breaking the lower mounting eye), and I have a new clutch to install as well. I'll likely change all the fluids (front end, rear end, transfer case, and transmission) while I'm there, and grease the hub bearings. I'm hoping to swap the worn CV shafts as well, but that's going to depend on money.
I also found out my catalytic converter was plugged solid when I blew the engine, all I had to do was pop the hood and see that bright orange exhaust manifold. Going to replace that, along with installing a new exhaust. I need to do some shocks as well, the fronts are shot (one is fully collapsed after breaking the lower mounting eye), and I have a new clutch to install as well. I'll likely change all the fluids (front end, rear end, transfer case, and transmission) while I'm there, and grease the hub bearings. I'm hoping to swap the worn CV shafts as well, but that's going to depend on money.
sounds like you have a whole lot of things left on your truck, it's always gratifying to see a fellow Toyota truck enthusiast keeping his truck running and on the road/dirt... good luck with all those goodies... once I get my turbo rebuilt, I'm gonna try the .006" and .010" on the valves... but I'm afraid it'll go soon like yours did, well the top half anyway since the bottom half has been rebuilt... still breaking it in too...
11-13-2017, 08:44 AM
#43
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Exactly the symptoms I'm having on a fresh rebuild, 268s cam .450 duration
lectric80, thank you for your advice. I had problems logging in which delayed my response.
The 'tappit' noise gets louder after the engine warms up in my 87 22re 4Runner though I think it's a good bet that the noise I hear through the Catalytic Converter is exhaust manifold leak related.
It's just that I think there could be two separate things going on, the tappit related noise and the hole in the exhaust manifold noise.
I still can feel something hitting metal after the engine is warmed up and I put my finger on the (hot) intake manifold cover nuts. (Those are the 4 nuts that screw onto the 4 studs that come up off of the head.)
The 'tappit' noise gets louder after the engine warms up in my 87 22re 4Runner though I think it's a good bet that the noise I hear through the Catalytic Converter is exhaust manifold leak related.
It's just that I think there could be two separate things going on, the tappit related noise and the hole in the exhaust manifold noise.
I still can feel something hitting metal after the engine is warmed up and I put my finger on the (hot) intake manifold cover nuts. (Those are the 4 nuts that screw onto the 4 studs that come up off of the head.)
Exactly the symptoms I'm having on a fresh rebuild, 268s cam .450 duration
spoketo comp (cam manufacturer) they said I may need a stiffer valve spring.
what did yoy finally do to resolve?
i can feel the noises when i touch the vc nuts mostly up fron but some in the back two as well.
thanks
08-30-2018, 10:19 AM
#44
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Almost done, and then BAM!, break a tiny bolt off in the intake and I have no clue what I am going to do. It was one of the small bolts that hold the heater pipe onto the intake manifold block on the head. I am going to pull the intake completely out, and see if I can get the piece out. If not my buddy has another EFI intake I can probably work a deal on to get my truck back on the road.
That was it, I needed to tighten those two bolts, hook up the EGR crossover pipe, then install the plenum. I was almost done and ready to break in the cam. Speaking of which, number three exhaust lobe had a flat spot, pretty noticeable one at that, that was causing my tap. I will do my best to take pictures of the rockers and cam showing the wear, but I don't know how well they will turn out.
All new rockers and cam are in place, with heavy amounts of assembly lube. I have also added some high zinc break in oil to help protect the new cam. Valve lash was set tight at .006 intake and .008 exhaust, hopefully I will have a nice quiet valve train with that. I will be double checking lash once I complete cam break in. Hopefully this bolt issue won't be too bad and I can get this thing running later tonight.
That was it, I needed to tighten those two bolts, hook up the EGR crossover pipe, then install the plenum. I was almost done and ready to break in the cam. Speaking of which, number three exhaust lobe had a flat spot, pretty noticeable one at that, that was causing my tap. I will do my best to take pictures of the rockers and cam showing the wear, but I don't know how well they will turn out.
All new rockers and cam are in place, with heavy amounts of assembly lube. I have also added some high zinc break in oil to help protect the new cam. Valve lash was set tight at .006 intake and .008 exhaust, hopefully I will have a nice quiet valve train with that. I will be double checking lash once I complete cam break in. Hopefully this bolt issue won't be too bad and I can get this thing running later tonight.
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