I do happen to remember that wen the engine started a few of the times that the tach was slow to rise and show my RPMs, could it be that the tach signal wire is faulty, so the engine things more air is coming in than how fast the engine is turning?

 

I'm going to bypass the FAST ignition and stock ignition with a donor stock ignition control unit.

 

I've got the ignition set up stock now, and still no luck. I hooked up my timing light to each spark plug wire and cranked, and got a strobe from 1-4, so unless the spark plugs themselves are bad, thinks are working there alright.
I took off and inspected the main intake into the turbo and the actuator hose, both look fine.
When I try to turn the engine over, I can hear the fuel pump clicking on so I'm pretty sure I have fuel pressure, but still no start and AFR is lean through the roof. Does the fuel cut stop the pump or the injectors from firing?
Also, not throwing any code currently, just not starting.
So lost on this one...
thanks again for all the help guys!

 

Put your stethoscope on the number one injector and listen. You can also check the #10/#20 ECU output for pulses to ground with an LED.

what ever you're hearing in the engine bay clicking is not your fuel pump. The pump is in the tank and the relay is in the dash.

 

The relay in the dash must be what I'm hearing, you right on that. Would the relay trigger even if the engine is cutting fuel?

LED eh? So i would be looking for the LED to blink off, correct? I really wish I had 6 foot arms and 2 elbows so I could try cranking and observe the engine bay, but until I get that surgery and steal the doc's stethoscope, I'll try the LED trick.

Mad respect on your knowledge of these beasts Co_94_PU, you're like a brain surgeon and I'm running around with gauze and tape stuck to my fingers!

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-22re-270857/

 

I had some leftover T5 LED bulbs from a cluster upgrade, and hooked them up. The #1 injector is the easiest to access, so I hooked up some jumper wires and one of the LED bulbs. Tried to crank, nothing. I switched the leads to the LED, and cranked. I got 1 blink. No engine codes, but the injector seems to only fire once and then stop.

I'm about ready to rewire this whole dang harness haha.

 

The next question is "does my ECU try to fire the injector" which would indicate a failure in the injector harness if it (ecu) is pulsing. If it's not pulsing were back to tracking down why the RPM signal isn't reaching the ECU. Im thinking off the top of my head you need either or both of NE and IGf at the ECU. So distributor pickup, ignitor, ECU and the wiring in between the three.

 

Well, I have a lot of down time and boredom going on right now, so I decided to rework the entire loom. I removed all of the crimp connections and soldered them up, as well as redoing any old soldering jobs that I could find (more than I expected, I am always finding someone else's work in this thing). I removed some excess wiring (ac idle etc), and tidied everything up. New AFM and TPS connectors.

To rework the loom I had to take the upper intake plenum off, so I decided to clean things up. I found that the front vent on my valve cover has been spraying oil into the intake before the turbo. I cleaned up what oil was there, and redialed in the TPS calibration.

I'm now waiting on some rolls of BMW/VW cloth wiring loom tape.

 

Some of the oil in the intake is unavoidable, however if you're not using a good PCV valve (metal from Toyota and speced for a turbo engine) odds are you have leak from the intake into the PCV system (valve cover) which puts excessive amounts of oil out the "breather" side of the PCV plumbing.

Easy enough to check for by trying to blow thru the intake side of your PCV valve, it should.close fully.

 

Everything is back together, and I have both good and bad news!

After reassembling everything, I cranked the engine and got a code 6 RPM signal code. I found that I just needed to secure the Ignitor down, and ground it well, and that disappeared. I then tried to crank the engine and got a few pops. I tried again and it almost wanted to run, but then stopped. I could smell gas in the exhaust pipe which is a big improvement to where I was before.

I checked codes, and got a code 13 Knock Control Signal. I played with the wire bundle a bit, checked this and that, unplugged the battery for a few minutes, and then tried again. This time I hooked up my timing light to a spark plug wire again to make sure sparks were firing regularly. I tried to start again, and again a code 13.

I don't really know anything about the knock sensor, and can't find much info out there. The FSM says that the ECU is the trouble area with this one. Because it is a turbo engine, replacing the ECU is out of the question. Anything I can do about this Knock signal?

 

Oh, I did check connectivity between the knock sensor plug and the ECU, and it was fine.

 

Everything is neatened up, insulated, hooked up, and in it's place.

I am just waiting for a stock replacement ignition coil, my last one was meant for the aftermarket ignition system.

I'll do a once over everything to make sure I hooked everything up, and then see if things work out.

 

That code doesn't have a lot to it for testing. Go over all your power +/- connections and ensure the battery voltage is good it's hopefully just a "Brown out" due to bad or noisy ground.

 

Update!

I had been waiting on a stock style ignition coil and plug wires for quite a while now, but they came in last night. I had put a solar trickle charger on the battery to keep things charged while I waited. I also did a once over of all of the wiring, comparing it to my manuals' schematics. I then hooked up an LED to the 1st injector plug, and my timing light to a spark plug wire, and turned the engine to check for blinks from both, and I got that.
This morning I installed everything, inspected every wire and hose connection, set the distributor, and cranked the engine over. I was planning on re checking the compression, and thought I would crank it over with the injectors going to see if the plugs are wet when I pull them. I unplugged the #3 spark plug to remove it and check first. To my surprise, when i cranked, the engine turned over and started! I was so surprised that it took me a few seconds to realize that it was running rough and rich because #3 plug was unplugged. I ran out front and plugged the wire in and things smoothed out. I set idle speed, I ran up and down the block, and then checked for codes. Everything was fine. I noticed that my AFR was high in the 15s, and when I opened up the throttle, it went waaaay lean. I adjusted timing and idle, and things were still looking lean. I parked it in my driveway after about 15 minutes of running and driving before I realized that I had not finished rewiring my electric fan setup, so things were getting hot. I shut the engine off for a minute or so, then started it again just to check, and it started and ran. I then shut things off for about half an hour to check things under the hood and to let it cool down. When i went to start the engine I got a fire and die, fire and die, fire and die. Once again the code 14 popped up, Turbo Pressure.

I'm getting frustrated and wonder if i'm going a little insane, but I got to drive my truck this morning for the first time in weeks, and didn't even have to push it home! I'm so happy with that 5 minute drive, reminds me why it is worth it to keep pushing on.... just trying to figure out what direction that is in.

 

I broke things down to do a once over to make sure that I wasn't leaving anything out, so I took off the valve cover to torque the head studs and check valve clearances.

I then used the walk through from 4crawler to check my TPS



Next up was checking spark plugs and compression. I don't know exactly what to look for with my spark plugs, but I did check their gaps, which were fine. As for compression, that was fairly steady across the board.

#1:



#2



#3



and #4



Lastly, I hooked the LED to check for signal at the injectors, this was my setup:

 

I'm now investigating the fuel supply side of things. I checked fuel pressure a few weeks ago, but that was only when the engine was running.

I pulled the plug for the AFM so that I could jump the fuel signal there (I don't have the test jumper plug), and triggered it on and off. I could hear the relay clicking, but could not hear the fuel pump. I remember that I used to be able to hear it running, so I went back to investigate at the fuel pump. There was a connector with 3 wire coming out of it, and I unplugged that to check voltages back there. The plug's wires left to right Y-R, Y-G, W-B. I tested voltage between both yellow wires and the white one, and got an 8ish volt value from Y-R to W-B, and barely anything, like 150mV from Y-G to W-B. I connected and unconnected the fuel jumper I had on the AFM switch, but that didn't change the power supplied to the plug at the fuel tank.

The Y-R I'm assuming is the float signal, which leaves Y-G to be the fuel pump power? I'm not finding a lot of information on how this is wired up, just wondering if I can jump power to thet Y-G to hardwire the fuel pump.

 

The yellow wires are the fuel level sender and light. My book shows the pump is powered by a blue(L) wire.

 

I'd suggest changing those plugs out, just for piece of mind, then start wondering why they are so oilly

 

Well, the only schematic I could find and it's not for a turbo specifically, is as follows:



I hope it helps a little!

Yes, you COULD.
Having said that, if you jump +12V straight to the fuel pump, you're eliminating a very important safety feature. To wit, the Circuit Opening Relay (COR). Doing so is, IMHO, a really, REALLY bad idea. The COR is there to shut off the fuel pump in the event of an accident, preventing pressurized fuel from spewing out of a broken open fuel system. You can imagine how dangerous THAT could be. A fire is a very valid possibility in that event. Not only dangerous for the occupant, but any first responders trying to extract the driver, just for example.
So yeah, you COULD, but if it were me, I wouldn't. Yes, fine for testing or troubleshooting, but to actually drive around with, heck no.

You know all you need is a piece of solid 12 or 14 GA wire, about an inch or two long, with both ends stripped, and bent in a U shape. Just slip the ends into the connector in the correct pins, and away you go. You can even use it to jump the fuel pump test connecter to see if the fuel pump will run. Just for example
It's a lot easier to hear it running with the engine off than with it running. Again, though, NOT good for driving around with. If you jump the test connector and the fuel pump won't run, then you can back track through the system until you find the problem. That's what the schematic is good for. If you have to, print it out and take it to the truck so you can follow it as you trouble shoot it.

Good fortune to you!
Pat☺