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I have been looking into rebuilding a 22re for my 88 runner. I would like to know if any one has any information on a 22re stroker kit? Are they worth the money and is it going to be very reliable? Also is this going to screw up the fuel injection?

BUNYKLR

I was thinking about building a 22re as well. I was leaning towards a turbo or supercharger but there are just so many options. Interested to see what a stroker would do/cost.

Elton

lol you could go with lce i think there 6k

RED 85

Here ya go.
TCR
It is the whole engine and just the basic stroker but they have all different levels.
B

BUNYKLR

Wow, I think I'll go with a turbo.

kyle_22r

i think for the money invested, it's better spent on forced induction. in the end, i think a supercharger is the cheapest way to make a lot of power from these engines, especially if you're carbureted. LC's kit runs about $2500 if i recall, i'd also invest in a set of forged pistons no matter what.

a turbo will have more power potential, but of course there's the aftermarket ECU, plumbing, possibility of needing an intercooler etc. LC can also set you up with all that stuff.

RED 85

TCR is a LC distributor. FYI.
Kyle is right for off road use the super charger is better!!
and you can get the whole engine for around 5K from TCR.
But enginebldr has all the kits to rebuild your engine for a good price.
and get the super charger kit for TCR or LC. for the 2500. you will have more up grades when you go with any time of forced induction.
B

BUNYKLR

I'm gonna try to find a salvage 22r to rebuild. Anyone know what kind of price is reasonable on a salvaged engine?

Also, I'd much rather go with the diesel that Toyota had in the pickups up till '85. Lots of things you can do with a turbo diesel.

AH64ID

A friend of my mine put a stroker in his 88. The guy who built it told him he had to keep the R's up to keep the pistons cool. Well he drove it normal, and within 5000 miles burned a hole in the piston. If this is anything like other stokers, I would go forced induction.

BUNYKLR

After some research, I think I'm going to buy a 1KZ-TE engine and swap it into my pickup. It'll be a couple months before I save up the cash to buy it, but it'll be worth every penny.

kyle_22r

sounds like the builder was an idiot. keeping your revs up is certainly not gonna make the engine run cooler, and with a stroker often times your powerband is lowered, so overreving will wear the engine out faster.

burning a hole in a piston is usually a result of severe detonation or overly lean mixture though.

brandontrek

ok...i will bite...what exactly does a "stroker" kit do to the motor? what does it mean to ahve a "stroked" motor...sounds kinda dirty to me...lol

kyle_22r

stroker kits increase the stroke of the piston, e.g. the distance it moves up and down. it's done by either modifying the crank(welding and regrinding the journals) or using a new after market crank with a longer stroke, then paired up with proper rods and pistons.

AH64ID

Generally a stroked motor is more torquey than a non-stroked motor. The new chevy 8.1 is a stroked 454; i.e. same bore, but longer stroke.

Fahrenheit 451

From what I've read, the only real problem on a stroker performance-wise is getting the revs up. Apparently, the stroke on a 22r is already somewhat long and the longer stroker could take some more "winding" to get it really up and going.
I have an LC Engineering EFI Pro motor in mine, stock stroke, and I have always felt that it is sort of slow to wind up, but once you hit somewhere around 3k rpm they find their comfort zone and like to play.
On a rather long thread by engnbilder on a different site his recommendation on a stroker is, "if you can do it, do it!". Probably the real question is how much a reliable kit really costs.
Keep in mind what you want the motor to do too. If you want low end power for crawling why go with a turbo with low compression (7.5:1?) that only makes power once the turbo kicks in? Great for jumping dunes, but not for trying to get up and over a big rock nice and slowly.
As far as blowing a hole in a piston, engine management is a big issue in modified 22re motors. Just clicking the wheel on the maf a bit IMO is a mistake. It increases the fuel rate across the band in a "throwing darts" way. You have to guess and see what happens and it can get expensive. You'll probably spend most of the time running rich and might still lean out at higher RPMs.
I can't prove that my Jet chipped ECU is the cure for problems I was having getting my LC motor hooked up right, but it sure did start running better after I did it and you can have them design the upgrade to match the engine work done to it.
I would want to do a lot of research on supercharging a 22re. Yes it can and has been done, but it is expensive and apparently the parasitic loss caused by the drag on the motor really hurts it's potential (I believe that is what I read on the LCE version when I was condering doing a supercharged engine for my '93 4Runner).
Just some pointless opinions...shutting up now.

AH64ID

How do you like that EFI pro, was there substantion improvment? What happened to your mileage. I do most of my driving on the street because its my DD, so dropping mileage for minor gains isnt cool. I only have 160K on my motor so it will be a while before I start needing a rebuild, but I want to be ready.

I was thinking about the LCE turbo also. The reason I like it is I can dial the boost where I want, for optimum performance. Then for slow speed crawling dial the boost off and rely on my gearing to get up and down the rocks.

Fahrenheit 451

It is nice. Flippin' expensive, but nice. When I drive my '85 4Runner with that motor I tend to zip around in it and don't get the 4cyl blues as bad as when I drive my '93 4Runner with the stock 22re. Stick your foot in it with the LC motor and something definitely does happen. Stick your foot in it with the stock 22re and sit there wondering if anything really happened.
I did the whole deal when I put it in. I got the EFI Pro motor (think they just call it Street Performer now?), big bore throttle body, headers, free flow 2.25" cat and muffler, K&N filter charger kit, 30lb flywheel, jet-chipped the ECU, all new injectors, got their re-curved distributor (which they don't seem to offer for EFI motors now, I'll have to check my old catalog and see what this one was supposed to have)
The motor does have some pep. I only have 31s on stock open gears so I'm not trying to push big tires two at a time while undergeared so I think I get a better idea of what it does vs. someone running big tires and no gears.
An example, this weekend I went to go for a short hike outside of town. I went down a dirt road with a slow car in front of me keeping me going back and forth between 2nd and 3rd. The truck was feeling kind of squirrelly until I realized that I was tending to gas it probably more than I needed to since I was trying to find one speed/gear to stay in and the rear tire was breaking loose and kicking the rear end out.
When I stopped I pulled off the road into a slightly sandy area only 8-10" below the grade of the road. Went for the hike, got back in the truck and as soon as I started to try and pull away I started digging a hole and going nowhere. Between the torque of the motor, a 30lb flywheel with only 31" tires and an open diff this setup really likes to dig holes. I actually thought for a moment I was going to have to put it in 4wheel drive to get over a 10" bump LOL!
I got stuck briefly just above Bangs Canyon last year for the same reason.
The only problems I've had with the motor was that it was setup wrong on the install and the bozos in the second shop that were supposed to check the work lied to me and didn't check anything. Cost me a headgasket. Took it back to the same guy that put it in not knowing at the time that he was the one that caused the problem and he beefed it again and it cost me another headgasket in about 30 miles
After being setup wrong, going through two headgaskets and associated issues that can cause, it still runs great. All that balancing and blueprinting probably really does help hold it together longer. My only complaint is the forged pistons. Ever winter I know it has officially gotten cold because it blows smoke like it has 200k on it till the pistons warm up and it has pretty much done that ever since it was new, although less so than now.
I was getting around 19-20mpg out of the LC motor with a slightly out adjustment TPS and a certain need for a tuneup. I haven't tuned it up yet, but seems like when I do I get a solid 20+mpg mixed driving. I don't do much highway driving so I'm not sure what it would do just cruising along. In comparison, once we get away from this crappy winter gas, my '93 gets right at 24-25mpg mixed.
If somebody gave me one for free or for a huge discount, I would probably do it again. Otherwise, I think I would just try to find a reputable shop to do the bottom end and put an LC head on it and put the rest of the $ into something else.

AH64ID

Thanks for the info.

Tytanium

Part of the "zip" factor, I suspect, has to do with the heavy flywheel :/. For low end revving, having a 9 or 11 lb flywheel will give you much better rev response than a 30 pound one...I'm buying a 95 3000gt VR4 and one of the first modifications i'm doing is a new high performance clutch and a Fidanza aluminum flywheel.