Quinn's87RE

'85 22RE stalls when engine is hot, only after full throttle, when I take her out of gear to coast. Like say I drive 55mph up a hill and then pull out of gear into neutral to coast down the back side, about 5sec after getting into neutral the engine shuts off, will run if I throw her back into gear.

Couldn't find a vacuum leak, although I suppose I could have missed one. I don't have a tachometer but the idle sounds about right. If I turn the idle up much more it'll surge at idle when warming up. I'm going to start by cleaning the throttle body and all it's ports.

Does this problem shout any red flags to something specific?

osv

i had to get a timing light that had a tach on it, in order to get idle speed and timing set up correctly.

if i recall correctly, the tb plate needs a slight gap when it's closed, if something is worn out or tweaked, and the plate slams shut with no gap, it will kill the engine.

if your '85 still has the old angled intake plenum/tb assembly, it's really not worth cleaning, just swap it out for the later model version... it will still pass ca smog.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I would check the fuel filter and fuel system. I have seen clogged filters let just enough fuel get thru and as it clogs up more, it will eventually start cutting into how fast you can run and your speeds will gradually start decreasing.

Make sure the TB is operating correctly. How is the Dashpot? Is it working correctly?

Quinn's87RE

I do need to change the fuel filter. Not convinced its causing the problem but it could be suspect. Haven't changed it since I bought the rig and I've just been pushing it off since Toyota put it way the heck back there.

I'm not getting any vacuum at throttle from 2/3 of the ports on top of the TB. The butterfly plate doesn't feel sticky against the throttle cable.

How does the dash pot fail? It just get clogged, or? How to test?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Usually the Dashpot wont let the throttle close all the way and keeps the idle high. Sometime a quick thump on the gas pedal will let the throttle force the idle down to where it needs to be.

I wonder if in your case it is letting the throttle close to much, starving the engine for air.

Quinn's87RE

Dash Pot checks out fine. TPS is within spec. AFM is within spec. My timing is in spec. New plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. New fuel filter. New water pump and t-stat (for different reasons). Still experiencing stalling issue. I tested my ignition coil and the primary coil resistance was like 1.6, which is double the max allowed resistance of, I believe the FSM says, 0.7? I guess I'll throw in a new coil this week and hopefully that will fix it. Any recommendations on a good coil? I have to go to the dealership to a get a Toyota T-Stat anyways (don't trust the Napa one I got), should I just go with a Toyota coil?

I didn't test my igniter - I hope its fine though cause a new one is like $150 or something.

I can't get my hands on a tachometer to perfectly set the idle. It's a pretty expensive tool, autozone doesn't rent them, and I don't know anyone with one. I'd rather wait and do a SR5 gauge swap than fork over any cash for a diagnostic tool I would rarely need.

Quinn's87RE

Was just at the dealership and the parts guy told me he could have a coil in by the afternoon, but that it is almost never the coil, that the coil can vary up to 1,000ohms based on outside temperature, and that 3 to 1 chance its the igniter or a bad ground in the igniter. My problem with that is why then in the FSM does it only give a range ov 200 ohms (0.5k - 0.7k) for the coil if it can vary so much? I also feel like I read somewhere on here that other people think that they never hear of the igniter going bad and that it is almost always the coil?

Anyways, tested the igniter and I was pulling about 12v on both the positive and negative side. I couldnt test the "power transistor in igniter" because the FSM says to use a dry cell 1.5v battery and I don't have one, unless i can just use a AAA or something? But I'm in spec otherwise, and out of spec on the coil, I feel like I should just pull the trigger on a new coil?

Besides what I've gone over on the truck for this prob, what else could it be?

osv

expensive? multimeter with tach for $39 at harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-aut...kit-95670.html

the description for this timing light says that it does rpm measurements, and it's $30: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Equus-355...Light/14644663

you need to look again at the symptoms... the only time the engine is dying is coming hard off of full throttle, when you slam the throttle plate shut.

that doesn't show any correlation with ignition parts, but it does point to a throttle body-related issue.

Quinn's87RE

I don't know why I thought they were like $85. Thanks!

Very true on backing up to the symptoms...

I guess once I get a tach I'll be able to for sure set up the dash pot correctly. Like Terry said maybe its not out far enough and is slamming the butterfly door shut starving the engine for air. I have the FSM page for it.

I just ran the EGR "test" where you apply vacuum (suck) to the EGR valve. It is supposed to make the engine stumble or die. Mine did nothing. I have a EGR gasket on the way so once it comes i'll take it off, clean it, and hope it helps.

osv

good call on the egr check! you never know with that thing... i guess if it failed the test it's not working at all... you could try plugging all of the vacuum ports that feed to it, at the plenum or whatever.