wrenchrabbit

Yesterday I replaced the guides (new steel dr side guide), tensioner, chain, pulleys, and gaskets. Put it all together and fired it up. Took it about 5 blocks, parked it, and checked the oil.... vanilla milk shake.
So now I am taking it back apart (today, checking the forums periodically).
Here is what I'll be looking for :

-Improper gasket installation on TC cover, h20 pump, and oil pump. I used ultra grey silicone around the oil pan and head gasket-TC cover cracks, but did not use anything to hold gaskets in place.

-Timing cover was grooved from an old timing chain wearing through the guide (not the one I just took off), but did not replace because I didn't see any holes, just fairly deep grooves.

-Incorrect TC cover bolt torque (I have a good torque wrench)

- One of the TC cover bolts was a little stripped (lower right side of cover)

Any info on flushing the system (getting rid of the milkshake), whether I should remove the oil pan (pain in the @rs), and opinions on where the leak may have formed are GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks in advance, these forums rock

22RUCRAZY

Get a new timing chain cover the hole can be small and stiil cause a milkshake

Kiroshu

You said you did the timing chain...... was it making a terrible chain slapping noise? If so were gudies totally gone? If so i suspect the chain rubbed a whole in the timing cover and thus its mixing oil and coolant....if its got milky oil DONOT DRIVE drain all oil and replace. Take head and valve cover off and clean. Possible gasket failure around t-cover. Head not tourqed correctly and or headgasket failure...... cracked head..... about your engine... i had the same issue with my truck a while back with your oil issue and it was a hole in my timing over.... i had to repalce the t-cover and basically the whole from of the engine was nearly replaced along with HG. All i did to get rid of the water in my engine was drain oil and fill back up again and run it a min then drain again and that for me got all the water out.... course clean head and valve cover and rocker arm assb. Even if the hole is pin size in the t-cover it will still leak because of the high pressure..... so yea....

wrenchrabbit

The chain was making a little noise but the guides were still intact.
It wasn't mixing before I did this job, so why would the cover be leaking now? Doesn't seem logical to me. Trying to figure out what went wrong during this repair that caused the mixing. But to be sure I'll TIG the wear spots in the cover with aluminum filler.

92 TOY

my 2 cents.

as i understand things.......the tensioner actuates based on oil pressure......could be a problem with the pickup tube in the pan (ie:blocked screen) that caused the timing chain to rub because tensioner not fully providing tension. BUT>>>>how could there be grooves if the guides are intact....sounds to me like someone has been in there before you.

sounds like you did the timing chain cover replacement without removing the head. although i've seen plenty of testimony saying you can do this, sounds like you are ending up going in again and this time, pull the head and change the gasket. I've seen plusses and minuses to doing the cover without pulling the head. i pulled my head because i didn't want to cause a failure because i disturbed the head.

my timing cover has deep groves, no visible holes but some discoloration where i believe it breeched. my assumption is that as it heats it opens up more....i don't know, but i'm just going to get a new cover.

as far as "flushing".......head off, clean it, pan off, clean it and the screen and there's really not much oil not accounted for (i believe) ...........CAN ADD seafoam to remove moisture to 1st oil....but mostly I would say when you get it all back together (and i will definitely be doing this) change the oil at exteremly short intervals until looking normal.

as far as a stripped bolt.....get a new one.

good luck, i will be watching.

wrenchrabbit

[quote=92 TOY;51263747]my 2 cents.

as i understand things.......the tensioner actuates based on oil pressure......could be a problem with the pickup tube in the pan (ie:blocked screen) that caused the timing chain to rub because tensioner not fully providing tension. BUT>>>>how could there be grooves if the guides are intact....sounds to me like someone has been in there before you.

sounds like you did the timing chain cover replacement without removing the head. although i've seen plenty of testimony saying you can do this, sounds like you are ending up going in again and this time, pull the head and change the gasket. I've seen plusses and minuses to doing the cover without pulling the head. i pulled my head because i didn't want to cause a failure because i disturbed the head.

Thanks for the advice.
Got the leak to stop yesterday. Here's what I did.
Took everything back apart, except the timing chain and components, removed all the old gasket, installed new gaskets (with RTV this time). Put it back together, changed the oil 2 times. Looking good now. Just drove it on the high way and check fluids. Everything's fine.
Just to clarify my initial problem, the fluids were fine and not mixing BEFORE I did the TC replacement. So this is why I ruled out the HG and anything unrelated to the work I just did. Usually in my experience with mechanics, if a problem occurs directly after changing something, you check these areas first before moving to other causes. Still not sure exactly sure where was leaking coolant into the oil, but my guess is the water pump wasn't sealed right the first time.
NEW PROBLEM though...
Getting some valve ticking. (new, not there before)
Did a valve adjustment, today I'll try and loosen the valve cover, check coolant level, and see if I can mess with the idle mixture and timing to get it idling good.
thanks everyone.

92 TOY

good deal.

no, i had read write-ups about doing the cover without removing the head and ended up disturbing the head gasket and causing secondary probems.

i agree with you. like you did, you go back and trouble-shoot what you did and move forward from there. for the cost of the oil and gaskets and time you spared yourself the hassle of pulling the head.

good job.

i'm no mechanic. far from it! i'm getting all my knowledge from doing stuff myself on my engine and osmosis and research (YOTATECH).

Jason4X4

is it possible that there was water in the pan from pulling the timing cover the first time? then when you drove it, it mixed?
or did you vhange the oil after the first chain replacement?

wrenchrabbit

It's possible there wwas oil in the pan during the first TC cover removal, but I don't think that's it. My first alarm was realizing that after adding 8.9 quarts of coolant (capacity) it still wanted more. After another quart and a half I realized the stuff was going somewhere it shouldn't have. Also, a little residual water in the oil will be burned off pretty quick after driving it, and probably wouldn't cause the thick yogurt/ milkshake stuff that I had.
Meanwhile...
The valve ticking quieted down a little, so I'm not too worried about that, although I may check valve clearances again before heading from Oregon to NY hopefully tomorrow.
Idle is still alittle rough though, and I know the vac lines are all messed up from the previous "owner", so I may spend another day staring at diagrams tomorrow, we'll see. I'm not sure if it would hurt to drive it 3000 miles with messed up vac lines.