fissure333

making that $.02 one shy of a nickel, i agree with your maintenance program. my rebuild is going in the truck tonight. i used the OSK kit and i've got to say that the quality is untouchable. the lower gear is a near press fit on the new woodruff key, the chain fits the teeth like a glove and yes the plastic guides went in too. i did some comparisons between the OSK guides and the other brand ones. they are not the same size. the OSK guides are wider by about 60 thou and you need the factory guide bolts to install them. the bolts that come with the engnbldr kit are shorter in the shoulder by about a washer thickness. i also decked my block shy of .010 and there is .006 off the head. i used the HG from toyota. the tensioner will take up the slack. really that's only just 1/3 over 5 sheets of paper thick. not that much. if i have to get in there again to change out the drivers side guide i'll consider going with the metal backed one again. i just wasn't impressed with the one i just took off. it was nearly worn through the composite material down to the metal after under 10k. it made me skeptical of bolting another one in. if toyota came out with one for the 22re you bet your ass i'd put it in, but that's the bottom line for me.

tysen86

I understand. I'm gonna try the LC engineering guides this time. They're going in Saturday. The kit came with some instructions on how to set the guides. I'm gonna go with their settings and see how it goes. If I don't like em, I'll go back to some plastic guides.

snobdds

All this back and forth...metal backed vs the OEM platic. The 84 22r is the model that all the aftermarket manufactors went off of. However, there is an option that makes this entire thread mute...double row timing chain. Change it out once and never worry about your timing chain again...

tysen86

Someone should come up with a belt that is as wide as the double row chain. It'd fit under the double row front cover and wouldn't need guides. Just have to make it so oil won't eat it up. Hmmm...any engineers out there??

mohamjrodan

I have a question to ask of you experts out there. I have a 1984 (early22r with round exhaust ports) and a single timing chain setup. Can I fit the OEM double row timing metal guides from the early 22r/20r with the single chain setup?

Thanks in advance

fissure333

timing chain cover won't fit.

mohamjrodan

The timing cover part number comes up on toyodiy.com with the same part number as mine so it should fit. Remember mine is the old 22r with single chain (no Lazer cut here) and round exhaust ports so its the same head and block as the old 22r with double timing chain.

Bingle

check here
http://www.lceperformance.com/Timing-Covers-s/14681.htm

Looks like you're good to go and the 2row chains with the metal backed guides are bomb proof.

Edit: Looks like you'll also need one of these (or similar)
http://www.lceperformance.com/20R-22...-p/1016066.htm

mohamjrodan

Thanks Bingle for the info and the links. One more question if i am not able to find all the double row chain parts where i live can I just use the metal double row guides for the single chain????

mohamjrodan

I just found the best website that explains everything 22r .....

http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/info-2xr.htm

ybanshee68

My truck has 256k and I am about to do the timing chain for the first time. I ordered the kit from Mizumoauto.com that comes with both pumps, metal left guide, chain, sprockets, tensioners and , new cover. All for 109.00. I think going with the metal backed guide is the way to go. I think if I had them from the start my truck would still be going right now. I'm sure it was a cost cutting thing Toyota found out they could save 20 cents per engine or something like that. Has anybody used anything from Mizumoauto before?

t08t94

It seems to me that the issue is with chain wear and stretching. If the tenisoner keeps the slack to a minimum, then the chain would not balloon out and rub the guides and ultimately timing cover.
Anyone tried replacing the chain without removing the cover, etc.?

Bingle

Maybe, but I wouldn't. Just order the full 2row chain kit somewhere on line. Will prolly be cheaper than local too. I refer to Lc because they have high quality parts/kits and you get everything you need (or they tell you what else you need) but they aren't the cheapest. Get what you pay for IMHO.

Dreidel

i know somebody that did it and what they did was cut a link out of the chain went and bought a master link, dropped the the chain down in there used a coat hanger to fish it out, lined everything up and put the master link on. you wouldnt be able to get to replace the guides or the tensioner kinda defeates the purpose of changing the chain if you arnt going to replace the rest of the failing components. i think that it was more trouble than it was worth but to each their own i guess. ive never replaced a timing chain while it was in the truck though, i replaced mine when i rebuilt the engine

Osh Ooh Ahh

I noticed some talk about metal shavings.... but isn't that one of the reasons to go and do the stinking timing chain in the first place? when I took off my timing chain cover, I found a couple of nice 3/16" grooves worn into the driver's side... I'm sure that made shavings tooooooo..... and now onto my REAL question.... I'm a noob.... (at least with yotas) and I can't find a stinking diagram to show me where the components and their corresponding brackets go.... I have a Bentley manual and the idiots book by muir... but both seem suppleMENTAL to what I am looking for.... can anyone direct me to the proper diagram or forum to ease my travels from greasy gus into grinning yota driver?
I have a stock fuel-injected 1988 shorted 4x4

Something for plastic guide kits vs metal:
I noticed when replacing the old with the new... the new tensioner seems to have gotten in the way of what seems to be a place to put the "extra" bolt that I couldn't figure out where goes.... went around my issue and used a short one... then installed a stud in the bottom corner and fixed a nut on it.

Osh Ooh Ahh

RESULTS????
Who has used metal guides and for how many miles?
and (if you could check) how is the tension on your chain and wear on the rubber of the guides???

fissure333

I used a set once and the rubber composite was nearly gone after 12k. Changed it back to a stock OSK kit.

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Just curious, were you able to do it by just pulling the valve cover off? I can imagine using a long ratchet/socket or long skinny ratcheting wrench. Also, did you notice any less noise from the plastic guide?