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Hey, y'all. So I was driving back home after a vacation today with my PU. And about an hour into the drive it started to run hot just below the red tick mark and you could smell he engine was hot with the windows down. I was on a massive grade so she was working pretty hard. I immediately pulled over and let her cool down. Checked the fluid, it was fine. Oil was fine. No mixing, my timing has been off to where I can here it prematurely firing and igniting at times (click clacking noise like dice in a cup) so I adjusted the distributor back and it seemed to be fine the rest of the trip but on hills is where it starts to get hotter. Possible timing? Thoughts? It still is running hotter, but I haven't took it on another hill yet
Yeah my father in laws mech advanced my timing by hand and it made the noise worse a few weeks ago. So I tried to get it back to where it was. I'm going to adjust the timing wih a light tomorrow. But I've looked lots of places and have never read anything about it being a issue. Anyway, any idea what was causing it to over heat?
I don't know all the history of your truck....but if it's overheating with a 50 mph wind blowing in the grill then I say the radiator is full of calcium/lime build-up. The proper fix would be a new rad. If that is the original rad or if it has more than 170k miles on it then that would tend to back up what I think. Also, if the needle was almost touching the red does not mean that you're ok .....that means 240 or 250 degrees. That means you stressed your head gasket. Obviously, the more times it "overheats" the greater your chances of white smoke out the exhaust that smells like anti-freez.
I am assuming you have the stock fan shroud and fan clutch arrangement too? Electric fans reduce your overall air flow.
Here's where oil seems to be coming from off the bottom of this unit
So. Once I set the timing the issue has been resolved, however. She will still overheat with the AC on. The fan clutch has good resistance and it pulls a piece of paper through the front of the radiator, fluid is clean in the rad and the water pump housing looks clean and fine. However, I notice that she is leaking bit of oil from somewhere and it's getting thrown all over the pulley's anyone know what may be going on?
take that plate off of the bottom of the truck, so that you can get underneath it, and go to the car wash and blast the engine off from both the top and bottom, you should be able to find the leak.
when does it overheat? at idle or on the freeway? not enough info to answer that question.
if it happens like zuk said, replacing the fan clutch may not fix it, because at high rpm on the freeway the fan clutch is supposed to be freewheeling.
you can't really troubleshoot a fan clutch by how much resistance it feels like it has.
Well I've had it for 4 years. It has a "GM" rad in it. So it appears to have been replaced id say. Bought he truck with 155xxx on it. Now has 172xxx on it. It won't over heat unless it's pushed. Steep hill AC on. In town, idle and freeway it's been fine. Water pump housing is an aisin so it looks like it has been replaced before me. When I did my timing chain and guides let sept it seemed fine. But who knows.
not sure what a gm radiator is, but it looked like you had a fan shroud on it...
it's hard to imagine the pump being bad... some water pumps have a weep hole underneath, when that thing leaks it's definitely time to change the pump.
i think that i probably would have changed it along with the timing chain, tho, just for drill.
have you changed the thermostat since you had the truck? mine was cockeyed and stuck open.
the problem i had was maybe different from yours, in that the motor was running hot at idle, and when crawling around on a trail in low gears... i swapped the thermostat and the fan clutch out at the same time, it was irritating because i had already replaced the radiator, due to taking a big chunk of aluminum thru it previously... so it had started overheating even tho it had a new radiator.
you can swap the thermostat out with a partial radiator drain... 22re uses a rubber gasket, i went with the factory toyota thermostat that had the second small passageway in it, do a search for the part number, i think that it's on the 4crawler site.
the thermostat would only be a fix in your case if it was stuck partially closed, so that it restricted the water flow too much, but it's kind of a routine maintenance item.
if i was pulling a radiator for testing or whatever, i'd do the fan clutch as routine maintenance as well, based on the way that mine failed... i think i found a factory toyota fan clutch for like $66.
I remember reading in my original owners manual that there is a risk of the engine overheating when you are driving up a steep hill with the a/c on.
I am not sure if you have an overheat problem now that you fixed the timing. Replacing the thermostat is a good idea since it is inexpensive. I would go for the OEM Toyota thermostat.
As for the oil leak, I think you will need to investigate this on your own since it is hard for us to see exactly where the leak(s) are coming from through the internet. Your pictures show the leak by the air conditioning compressor but the belt could just be moving the oil there.
Here is a picture of my owner's manual:
Last edited by old87yota; 09-02-2016 at 01:56 PM.
Reason: Adding more information
It over heats with AC on. And when going up hills. I never tried going up a hill wih the AC. That's what has me concerned. I was going up a steep grade, windows down, no AC and she was overheating.
If the unit on the left in the picture above is the AC unit, then yes. However, I sprayed it clean today and am still looking for the sign of the leak.
So my front crank seal was leaking oil. It is now fixed. It seems setting my timing with a timing gun fixed my overheating issues, however. It started over heating at idle today out of no where. I'm going to partial drain my rad tomorrow and install a new thermostat. Any additional suggestions? This is weird.
08-28-2016, 07:39 PM
