I’m interested in an igniter swap. I’m familiar with the gm 4 pin igniter swap for 22r engines. But there isn’t much info out there for the 22re. The 22re ecm has 2 igniter connections, IGT and IGF. Does anyone know if the gm 4 pin igniter can work with the 22re ecu? If so how to connect? Or, do any other affordable igniters have the appropriate outputs for the 22re ecu?

i recently tried a rock auto WVE igniter in my truck. It worked for 6 months then died. Junk. It’s pretty annoying when an igniter quits. The truck randomly stops running leaving you stranded.

Im currently running on an original 1980s Toyota igniter and coil. I need something new and affordable which is easily replaced.

ideas?

 

after looking more into this i decided against an igniter swap. It would be pretty hard for my electronics skill level to use anything but a Toyota ignitor since the ecm needs that IGF signal. Probably another ignotor from say a 1990s camry would work, which is a 5 wire igniter vs the 22re 8 wire ignitor. Some minor wire re routing specifically for engine timing would be required but it does have the igt and igf functions along with the coil outputs.

But then I discovered new 22re igntors are still available from Toyota ($500). And also used ones are for sale on ebay. So I paid $100 for a used ebay one, authentic Denso. Now I have 2 working ancient igniters. So if one dies I can easily swap it out and buy another spare cheap. This is probably the most practical approach at this point at dealing with a 35 year old EFI system. Keep spares of every major component. Its actually a decent EFI system to this day. In 10 years of daily driving Ive never had a problem with the ECM, air flow meter, or distributor. I had the knock sensor wire give me trouble once. Of course blown igniters. And once I replaced a throttle position sensor. But that was an aftermarket BWD tps. I then bought a new oem Toyota TPS and never looked back. Denso/ oem = BEST.

Thats the end of my story, ok back to clocking miles.

 

I was just in the same predicament as you. I was deliberating biting the very expensive bullet of a brand new OEM igniter and one from Ebay as I've been chasing a hard start issue for a while now..checked out the COR, replaced ignition switch and fuel pump (they were 30 years old!) but what finally did it was the igniter. I put a kill switch in line with the positive wire of the igniter and it worked for years but then this mystery issue started. So I'm pretty sure my wiring was faulty OR it was this ground located under the igniter that I would never have seen unless I removed it. I sanded it down to bare shiny metal and replaced the igniter and the truck started up like a champ. So in the end, I'm still not sure which it was, but I'm sure glad that I didn't buy the OEM (for now).

 

ive has the same ground problem where the coil/ igniter frame was caked in rust which can’t be seen without removal. Meanwhile the truck would stall or die randomly. These igniters work but they can be pesky. Hmm perhaps individual coils and a stand-alone are in my future.

 

I bought an after market igniter and the truck ran great except the tachometer wasn’t registering rpm’s . I put the old oem one back and rpm’s registered. I was really just trying to quick fix and that ended up not being my problem but it’s worth mentioning that the after market igniter s do work but in my case I lost the functionality of the tachometer.

 

I did this too. Still on my OEM 1986 22RE ignitor. Many years back I bought a used OEM as a spare. Installed it to make sure it worked then reinstalled my OEM one. I know where that one has been. It wasn't too expensive then.