jordanhere123

As of a 2 weeks ago my 22re has been having issues with the heat. It doesn't seems to get hot anymore. just warm and has been taking a little bit to warm up as well. This is my first winter with the truck so not sure if thats normal or not. But i'm not low on coolant and I tried burping the cooling system with the same result. Sometimes if I drive the truck and let it idle for a little while it will get hot. Not sure what the issue can be. Any ideas?

I never had the truck over heat on me. Temps seems to be below halfway usually but never runs on the cold side

jordanhere123

Or maybe I should try to backflush the heater core ?

jaysson_2012

Back flush the core, and also make sure the valve is opening

sdstud212001

Inspect the thermostat. If it's not closing you will never get to operation temperature. If this is the case not only will the heater never blow hot you will be dumping fuel because the computer thinks it still needs to heat up to operating temps.

jordanhere123

Any way to inspect the thermostat with it in the vehicle ? Or just take it out and do a visual inspection and put it in a pot of water and see if it functions

kcaudill

Take it out and replace. A $10 part can ruin your engine, if its suspect replace

jordanhere123

I am just going to replace it. Bleed the cooling system after replacing it?

Also I am stuck between the 195 and 180 thermostat.

Schnayke

iTrader: (1)

I have had 4 toyotas now, all 4 came with the water control valve on the engine side of the firewall not adjusted right, one kept slipping and I had to replace the bracket that holds the line. easy way to check it is turn your switch all the way too hot, then open the hood and pull the wire off the control valve, if you can open the valve anymore it isn't adjust right, and you won't be able too bleed the system effectively.
Check that it didn't slip on a cold morning when the cable didn't want to slide.
Other then that what everybody else said. If you have any coolant leak it may be letting air in, so fix that before doing anything else.

Odin

If you live in a climate like Arizona or a warmer part of California I'd consider installing the 180, if not I'd go with the 195 If you go with the 195 I'd drill a bleed hole in it WITHOUT QUESTION.

ALWAYS bleed the system after that much fluid loss.

Get the front end up as high as you can. Preferably place the front end up on jackstands as high as you can get it and leave the radiator cap off.

Slide the heaters temperature control to FULL HOT. Leave the Fan Blower OFF and start the engine. Keep the coolant level just below the filler neck.

Keep the engine rpm's at about 2500-3000 and watch for the coolant to start getting hot and flowing past the filler neck, that's the thermostat opening. Add some coolant if you need to but not to the top. Wait for the thermostat to cycle open A FEW TIMES. You might want to let it cycle open and closed for about 15 plus minutes.

Now fill it to the top and screw the radiator cap on. Make sure your coolant overflow bottle is up to the fill markings.

Since you're talking about a non factory thermostat you might want to drill a 1/16 hole in it to let the air escape easier during normal driving conditions. I believe it's recommended that you install the thermostat with the bleed hole at the 12 o'clock position (closest to the windshield).

jordanhere123

Thanks for the helpful post!!

I think I'm going to pick one of these up as I heard good stuff about these thermostats.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/stant-superstat-153-super-premium-thermostat-195-degrees-fahrenheit-45869/5653592-P?searchTerm=thermostats#fragment-1

Odin

As far as aftermarket thermostats are concerned, THESE DAYS the Stant Superstat is the best I've found out there.

Because these engines seem to have a problem purging/burping the trapped air and that thermostat is 5 degrees higher than a factory thermostat I'd go ahead and remove the piece that's semi blocking the hole. That hole and the piece that goes through it is called a jiggle valve. It will take a little bit longer to warm up but at 195 degrees it should still warm up.

Test it before you install it

Odin

I see you've been here since 5-27-2014 but I'm still going to say it;

I consider that only somewhat helpful because that problem and one other comes up quite often. What's the other problem you ask?
Don't be our 10,000th post about engine turns over slow, engine won't start, clicking from starter, alternator won't charge, headlights are very dim.
Most of those issues are fixed by a little easy preventive maintenance.

Clean ALL the main power and ground wires with a wire brush and make sure all of your factory ground straps are both clean and in place.
Before bolting them back together coat them with dielectric grease to help prevent corrosion. Any auto parts store should have it.

Doing a quick visual inspection doesn't cut it!

To be reliable all of the cable contact area's must be clean and shiny like the day it rolled off the assembly line and that's why I mention using a wire brush. With the small power and ground wires on these trucks just a little corrosion can create extra work for the alternator (think life span), cause starter problems (spin slow, not at all, clicking), reduced light levels from the interior and headlights, or even cause wires to overheat and smoke.

This helpful post with pictures will help you track down the ground wire locations. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/
If one of the ground wires is broke or missing it's either time to make them to replace them or have someone do it for you.

If you need to make some wires,
For The Love Of God please don't use the regular type of crimp butt connectors shown or it will just be a matter of time before you or somebody else will have to fix it again!

jordanhere123

Okay so Juat remove that jiggle valve instead of drilling a hole and place the thermostat(side with hole) at the 12 o clock position (windshield side)

Odin

Yup.

I assume you've read about it since you've been here for a while now but in case you haven't seen or heard about it yet,
the thermostat Toyota recommends (it was in a Totota bulletin) for the 22r, r-e engines is a special Toyota Two Stage unit pn# 90916-03070.
It's available at a few different places but it's quite a bit more money than the aftermarket stuff.

Yotamasters has some really good pictures of it but you have to click on their photo
https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/fac...ge-thermostat/


http://www.lceperformance.com/2-Stag...-p/1032081.htm

" Prevents the common coolant overshoot during cooling system bleeding. Known to cure temperature gauge spikes. (88*C) 190*F"

"This thermostat has two valves in it, one closes at the regular temperature and the smaller closes at a cooler temperature. If the cool water shuts the big one, the smaller one will stay open letting coolant into the cooling system. Constructed of stainless steel."

jordanhere123

Replaced the thermostat today with 195 stant superstat. Made sure it worked before putting it in. I also took out the jiggle valve. It's 12 degrees F out today. Drove the truck around the block a few times and let it idle for awhile. I don't think the truck is warming up enough for it to open.

Odin

made this edit last night because I forgot to include it when bleeding the trapped air;
"Keep the engine rpm's at about 2500-3000 and watch for the coolant to start getting hot and flowing past the filler neck, that's the thermostat opening. Add some coolant if you need to but not to the top. Wait for the thermostat to cycle open A FEW TIMES. You might want to let it cycle open and closed for about 15 plus minutes."


At 12 degrees you might have to block part of the radiator with a big piece of plastic.
I've had to do that to a few vehicles in the winter, and that's with no holes drilled in the thermostat.
You'll know whether to make the blockage bigger or smaller by watching the temp gauge.
Truckers regularly block off part of the airflow to their radiators in cold temps too.

Just be sure to remove the blockage when the weather gets warmer or you'll have problems that you won't like

jordanhere123

I really appreciate the advice and help. First winter having the truck so I have nothing to compare it to. Use to have a 2002 s10 zr2.

Something else I just noticed when it's a little warmed up it has a rough idle now it seems(just started after this tstat change) Can that be from not getting all the air bubbles? I didn't really get to bled it that well.

Odin

No.
If there's a lot of trapped air in the system it can expose a sensor. As a result it doesn't know the true water temp and it will keep signaling different temps resulting in a warm idle that will keep raising and lowering.

jordanhere123

Mine is staying constant when it's rough for the most part. Drives with no issues.

Could be possible that something could have gotten wet when I changed it? When I undid the thermostat housing some coolant came out.

And do you think that hole is too big where the jiggler valve came out? I tried to Check the hole size with a drill bit after I took it out and it was 2 sizes bigger then 1/16 I believe

Odin

Both are unlikely. If you're in a climate that Stays that friggin cold in the winter it might have been a mistake removing the plug. If you're that unsure about it just replace it with another and leave that piece in or get the Two Stage Toyota thermostat.