22re head replacement - lessons learned
12-12-2006, 10:33 PM
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22re head replacement - lessons learned
Hi All -
This will be my first post.
My 4runner has 217K miles on it. Started spewing sickly sweet steam out of the exhaust. "Time for a head gasket" I thought. As it turned out, the head was eroded between one of the combustion chambers and a water jacket.
I just wanted to document some of my lessons learned in replacing the head. Maybe this will be useful to somebody. I just removed the old head; new one is enroute.
The Chilton's manual outlines a 27 step process which was pretty useful but try not to get hung up on the specific names of each individual hose and elec. connection. I basically just worked my way around the engine, clockwise, until I could remove the plenum. Then I disconnected the remaining electrical connectors and pulled out the wiring harness.
Instead of labeling every fastener I removed, I was able to replace about 95% of them back in their proper place, for instance, replacing the exhaust manifold bolts after removing the manifold. Maybe this is a blinding flash of the obvious.
It was very cold and windy out and all I have is a carport. I only labeled the wires and lines that could concievably be confused with others - most are coded or fitted so that there is only one possibility. We'll see if this tactic pays off.
This is interesting. The plastic air connector pipe that runs from the intake sensor to the throttle body - it had two small holes warn into the underside where it was rubbing against the top of the fan shroud. Unmetered air!!!! Also, check your injector seals, esp. the ones on the intake side. Mine were dry-rotted. This can lead to vacum leaks and poor performance. They're very cheap to replace.
I was surprised at how gunked-up my intake runners were with fuel/oil.
I used white-out to mark the timing chain in relation to to the TDC mark on the cam sprocket. I regret not marking the dist. rotor in relation to the dist. body.
Once you've marked the chain and removed the upper sprocket, it becomes very important to keep the chain engaged with the lower sprocket. I did this by wiring the top of the chain to the underside of the hood, directly above.
I then started removing the head bolts, some of which were bent. They're cheap enough that there I don't see any point in trying to re-use them. Buy new ones.
With the chain still wired to the underside of the hood, I started raising up the head using 2X4's. One in the front; one in the back. Another one in the front, another in the back. And So on.
I then rotated the back of the head 90 degrees counter-clockwise so that it was easier to lift and could clear the hood. I continued to put blocks under the head until it cleared the top of the timing chain. Then, I woke up my wife and had her hold onto the top of the timing chain as I cut the wire holding it to the hood. I then moved the head out of the way.
Next, I tied the timing chain to a bracket on the driver's side of the engine. That way, the chain is still in contact with the lower sprocket.
New heads are pretty cheap for this engine. I ordered mine from a company I found on Ebay. In hindsight, I suspect it would take less time to just replace the long block. With the head now off, it makes it much easier to tackle a few other projects:
- Replace oil filter.
- Replace fuel filter.
- Steam clean short block & front suspension.
- Tap the head bolt bosses. Lots of crap inside there. This stuff [I think] could cause a torque wrench to click pre-maturely.
Is there any other maintenance I could knock-out with the head removed?
This will be my first post.
My 4runner has 217K miles on it. Started spewing sickly sweet steam out of the exhaust. "Time for a head gasket" I thought. As it turned out, the head was eroded between one of the combustion chambers and a water jacket.
I just wanted to document some of my lessons learned in replacing the head. Maybe this will be useful to somebody. I just removed the old head; new one is enroute.
The Chilton's manual outlines a 27 step process which was pretty useful but try not to get hung up on the specific names of each individual hose and elec. connection. I basically just worked my way around the engine, clockwise, until I could remove the plenum. Then I disconnected the remaining electrical connectors and pulled out the wiring harness.
Instead of labeling every fastener I removed, I was able to replace about 95% of them back in their proper place, for instance, replacing the exhaust manifold bolts after removing the manifold. Maybe this is a blinding flash of the obvious.
It was very cold and windy out and all I have is a carport. I only labeled the wires and lines that could concievably be confused with others - most are coded or fitted so that there is only one possibility. We'll see if this tactic pays off.
This is interesting. The plastic air connector pipe that runs from the intake sensor to the throttle body - it had two small holes warn into the underside where it was rubbing against the top of the fan shroud. Unmetered air!!!! Also, check your injector seals, esp. the ones on the intake side. Mine were dry-rotted. This can lead to vacum leaks and poor performance. They're very cheap to replace.
I was surprised at how gunked-up my intake runners were with fuel/oil.
I used white-out to mark the timing chain in relation to to the TDC mark on the cam sprocket. I regret not marking the dist. rotor in relation to the dist. body.
Once you've marked the chain and removed the upper sprocket, it becomes very important to keep the chain engaged with the lower sprocket. I did this by wiring the top of the chain to the underside of the hood, directly above.
I then started removing the head bolts, some of which were bent. They're cheap enough that there I don't see any point in trying to re-use them. Buy new ones.
With the chain still wired to the underside of the hood, I started raising up the head using 2X4's. One in the front; one in the back. Another one in the front, another in the back. And So on.
I then rotated the back of the head 90 degrees counter-clockwise so that it was easier to lift and could clear the hood. I continued to put blocks under the head until it cleared the top of the timing chain. Then, I woke up my wife and had her hold onto the top of the timing chain as I cut the wire holding it to the hood. I then moved the head out of the way.
Next, I tied the timing chain to a bracket on the driver's side of the engine. That way, the chain is still in contact with the lower sprocket.
New heads are pretty cheap for this engine. I ordered mine from a company I found on Ebay. In hindsight, I suspect it would take less time to just replace the long block. With the head now off, it makes it much easier to tackle a few other projects:
- Replace oil filter.
- Replace fuel filter.
- Steam clean short block & front suspension.
- Tap the head bolt bosses. Lots of crap inside there. This stuff [I think] could cause a torque wrench to click pre-maturely.
Is there any other maintenance I could knock-out with the head removed?
12-13-2006, 01:05 AM
#2
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Sounds like you're doing it pretty smartly...
Don't worry about the distributor. If you have the motor to TDC all you have to do is put it back in pointing to #1. Just make sure the head goes back on with the cam in the #1 compression stroke (both valves loose on #1) and you'll be fine.
If you haven't done a timing chain on the motor I'd highly suggest doing it now as you have more than 80% of the labor done to take off the cover. Timing kits are pretty cheap and not hard to replace, especially if you have the head off. I'd suggest either an OEM kit or a steel backed drivers side rail kit from engnbldr. If your plastic guides are broken at all you are a speedbump away from a broken chain or a timing jump that can leave you with 4 bent intake valves (like I had happen to me). Like I said, if it is a stock timing chain set and you are over 200k, it is past due and going to go out at any time.
Another suggestion is to clean the carbon off the tops of the pistons. Get some of those 3M revloc pads for your drill. They do a great job.
Lastly, do a search for old threads on 22re head replacment and timing chain replacement. There are tons of picture threads where others have done it with what they learned from the job. I think I even have one or two.
Don't worry about the distributor. If you have the motor to TDC all you have to do is put it back in pointing to #1. Just make sure the head goes back on with the cam in the #1 compression stroke (both valves loose on #1) and you'll be fine.
If you haven't done a timing chain on the motor I'd highly suggest doing it now as you have more than 80% of the labor done to take off the cover. Timing kits are pretty cheap and not hard to replace, especially if you have the head off. I'd suggest either an OEM kit or a steel backed drivers side rail kit from engnbldr. If your plastic guides are broken at all you are a speedbump away from a broken chain or a timing jump that can leave you with 4 bent intake valves (like I had happen to me). Like I said, if it is a stock timing chain set and you are over 200k, it is past due and going to go out at any time.
Another suggestion is to clean the carbon off the tops of the pistons. Get some of those 3M revloc pads for your drill. They do a great job.
Lastly, do a search for old threads on 22re head replacment and timing chain replacement. There are tons of picture threads where others have done it with what they learned from the job. I think I even have one or two.
Last edited by ovrrdrive; 12-13-2006 at 01:08 AM.
12-13-2006, 06:03 AM
#3
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Sweet good info. I'm in the middle of a head gasket replacement on my 22RE also. While I have it apart I'm replacing my timing chain, the accessory belts on the front of the engine, and I dropped the head off at a machine shop to get inspected. I also sent my injectors to http://www.witchhunter.com/ to get cleaned and checked out.
Rob
Rob
Last edited by rdlsz24; 12-13-2006 at 03:54 PM.
12-13-2006, 01:16 PM
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[QUOTE=ovrrdrive;50361530]
If you haven't done a timing chain on the motor I'd highly suggest doing it now as you have more than 80% of the labor done to take off the cover. QUOTE]
Gosh, you're right. If I've gone this far, why not? I think if I had a garage or fair weather, it would be a no-brainer. But this Seattle weather is seriously challenging my ability to do quality work.
The cylinders still show a good cross-hatch pattern so I think I might have a re-build. On the other hand, it still has plastic guides. Hmmmm.....
Is it THAT much harder to do the work with the oil pan still in place?
Ever heard of a counter holding bar, used for securing the crank?
More and more, I think it would have been simpler to replace the long block.
If you haven't done a timing chain on the motor I'd highly suggest doing it now as you have more than 80% of the labor done to take off the cover. QUOTE]
Gosh, you're right. If I've gone this far, why not? I think if I had a garage or fair weather, it would be a no-brainer. But this Seattle weather is seriously challenging my ability to do quality work.
The cylinders still show a good cross-hatch pattern so I think I might have a re-build. On the other hand, it still has plastic guides. Hmmmm.....
Is it THAT much harder to do the work with the oil pan still in place?
Ever heard of a counter holding bar, used for securing the crank?
More and more, I think it would have been simpler to replace the long block.
12-13-2006, 03:36 PM
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After you get the head installed and before you install the valve cover pour a quart of oil over the cam shaft this does tow things in that it fills the pockets in the head where cam turns and lubes it and everything under the cover and also it will wash any carbon anitfreeze and the like into the oil pan.
Before you start the motor for the first time change the oil. when you took the head off water and antifreeze mixed with the oil and oil and anti freeze do not mix and can casue damage to the bearing surfaces so change the oil before starting the motor.
Remember to go back and re-torque the head bolts after you have allowed the motor to warm up completely and allowed it to completely cool down as in a few hours.
12-16-2006, 06:40 PM
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I guess I will be replacing the timing chain afterall........
Because I cracked the timing cover!!!
Torqued all the head bolts down before I started the timing cover bolt. It probably wasn't lined up right. I just heard a snap and then a little oil seeping from the top of the cover. Then the whole ear fell off.
I knew better.
Anyways, I guess I will be replacing the timing chain, cover, guides, main seal, etc.
Because I cracked the timing cover!!!
Torqued all the head bolts down before I started the timing cover bolt. It probably wasn't lined up right. I just heard a snap and then a little oil seeping from the top of the cover. Then the whole ear fell off.
I knew better.
Anyways, I guess I will be replacing the timing chain, cover, guides, main seal, etc.
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12-17-2006, 06:12 AM
#8
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^^ I feel your pain. I wasn't planning on replacing the timing chain, guides, etc. But broke the right timing guide when I was taking the head off, so now that I have to take the timing cover off to replace the guide, I'm going to to replace the chain while I'm at it.
Rob
Rob
Last edited by rdlsz24; 12-17-2006 at 04:27 PM.
12-17-2006, 08:59 AM
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Hey beuregard, do you know about the: factory service manual?
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual
12-21-2006, 07:39 PM
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That is indeed a beautiful thing. Thanks. Good diagrams and it even gives the sequence for removing the head bolts.
I don't think it would have kept me from cracking that timing cover. I was just in too much of a hurry. The factory manual says to install the head - timing cover bolt after you've torqued the head bolts. I think that's how I broke the last timing cover because the holes weren't property aligned. The machine shop also suggested that compressed debris of fluid in the hole will cause the cover to crack.
This weekend, I will remove the head and replace the cover, belt, water pump, oil pump, etc. Is it possible to replace the cover w/o removing the oil pan & diff?
I don't think it would have kept me from cracking that timing cover. I was just in too much of a hurry. The factory manual says to install the head - timing cover bolt after you've torqued the head bolts. I think that's how I broke the last timing cover because the holes weren't property aligned. The machine shop also suggested that compressed debris of fluid in the hole will cause the cover to crack.
This weekend, I will remove the head and replace the cover, belt, water pump, oil pump, etc. Is it possible to replace the cover w/o removing the oil pan & diff?
01-11-2007, 06:10 AM
#11
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OK I just finally started mine last night after a head gasket install and getting the head machined. It didn't sound too good. I know I have to set the timing, but what else needs to be adjusted? I was going to set the timing but I know that the engine has to be at operating temp to do that and I was afraid to let it run that long. Yeah it sounded that bad, plus when I turned it off something smelled hot. I installed 2 new accessory belts; could they be what smelled hot? How do I know if the cylinders are getting oil? I plan on posting a video tonight to get some thoughts.
Rob
Rob
Last edited by rdlsz24; 01-11-2007 at 06:11 AM.
01-11-2007, 06:37 AM
#12
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What's this? Is that necessary? I don't recall the FSM or Haynes manual saying anything about that? And geez, nobody told me that either when I redid the heads on my '92.
Sorry to derail, but this had my curiousity.
01-12-2007, 07:36 AM
#13
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See my above post for some background.
OK here is the link to my video:
http://www.freewebs.com/toyotastuff/Truck.3g2
I recorded it with my phone, so it's not the best quality, and it's QuickTime. You really only need the sound anyway. I couldn't get it to play in my browser, so I have to save it to my desktop. FireFox will automatically download it to your desktop.
Now I realize it needs to be timed, but listen to the loud noise it makes in rhythm. It kind of sounds like the timing chain slapping again something, but I don't know why it would be doing that since I ended up not replacing the chain.
Rob
OK here is the link to my video:
http://www.freewebs.com/toyotastuff/Truck.3g2
I recorded it with my phone, so it's not the best quality, and it's QuickTime. You really only need the sound anyway. I couldn't get it to play in my browser, so I have to save it to my desktop. FireFox will automatically download it to your desktop.
Now I realize it needs to be timed, but listen to the loud noise it makes in rhythm. It kind of sounds like the timing chain slapping again something, but I don't know why it would be doing that since I ended up not replacing the chain.
Rob
Last edited by rdlsz24; 01-12-2007 at 07:40 AM.
01-12-2007, 11:32 AM
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Anyone? I know it's a crappy video but you can hear the grinding noise. It's not happening every time the timing chain goes around. It's about every 2 seconds or so.
Rob
Rob
01-13-2007, 06:26 AM
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DO NOT try to remove carbon from the piston heads. this will get little pieces of carbon between the piston rings and cyl walls and is not good for the rings at all. you WILL cause problems
01-13-2007, 06:39 AM
#16
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There are some skools of thought that you should retorque the head after XX miles. I had a Peugeot diesel that required a retorque every 40k miles as maint. the BIG precaution is to let the vehicle get overnight-cold before wanking on the bolts.
01-13-2007, 02:42 PM
#17
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It almost sounds like a water pump or idler bearing. Remove each accessory belt, one belt at a time, start the truck and run it just long enough to see if the squeal disappears.
01-14-2007, 06:30 AM
#18
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I started it and listened to it again yesterday. It sounds like it's coming from the distributer area. Can the distributer drive gear be noisy? Also, how tight should the belt be that runs the power steering and water pump?
Rob
Rob
01-15-2007, 09:56 AM
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Quick question: My truck is approaching 200k and I was wondering if the HG should be replaced as preventative maintenence--or should I just fix it when it goes?
01-15-2007, 10:06 AM
#20
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Fix it when it goes.. If you're going to open it up, the only "maintenence" thing I'd do at 200k is a timing chain with steel guides.
Last edited by dcg9381; 01-15-2007 at 10:12 AM.
