Yoda

DON"T CRANK THE ENGINE WITH THE KEY>>>>>YOUR FUEL LINES ARE OPEN

You could use a "remote starter switch" hooked directly to the crank terminal of the starter.

You put the breaker bar under the pass side frame. Then, when you bump the starter, it falls to the floor after loosening the crank bolt.

Remember to change the fuel filter while it is so accessible

kyle_22r

aw cmon, it's just a little gasoline disconnecting the AFM would probably prevent it from spewing all over.

don't bother with the head studs unless you've got forced induction. stock bolts work just fine. i can recommend either engnbldr's head gasket or the dealer one, they are nearly identical.

all_terrain17

lol, yeah I do need to do something about that.

I assumed it would be fine to place the bar underneath the passenger side frame rail, but I did want to hear it from someone else, so thanks for the confirmation.

And yes, I have already had a fuel spray after turning the key
System was mostly depressurized though after removing the cold start injector, so it wasn't bad at all - but I'll be sure not to make that mistake again.

Two more questions...
Is it alright to reuse the headbolts? and
In which order should I remove and install the head and timing cover?

Thanks again for the tips and encouragement! It's been kinda difficult to sleep the last few nights knowing how far into this I'll be. Tomorrow afternoon I'll begin disassembling the motor.

Yoda

OK to re-use.

I just remembered, there is a head bolt REMOVAL pattern to help prevent the head warping. (I think it is the reverse of the tightening sequence)

Also don't forget the little bolt under the distributor gear (in that little puddle of oil)

all_terrain17

Yes, the Haynes manual gives the tightening sequence. And although it's ok to reuse the head bolts, I'm going to look into getting a head gasket set anyways since I'm this far in anyways.

Also, what about all of the small gaskets for the emissions system? Should I order all of them or simply use some sort of sealant?

I'm headed out to the shop now to take off the timing cover.

kyle_22r

for some reason i have yet to find a gasket set(well, maybe toyota's) that gives you the little gaskets for the PAIR system. they are the same pattern as the EGR-to-manifold gasket. i bought a sheet of exhaust gasket material and cut my own gaskets for them. you could probably use some ultra copper RTV and be fine, though.

the head bolts are fine to use as long as they are in good shape. still, replacing them is only around $25 or so.

ovrrdrive

I just went ahead and bought a complete engine set from Carquest when I did mine. Think about it, you're going replace almost every gasket in the motor except the rear main seal before you get done anyway.

Funny thing though, the "complete" engine set didn't have the timing kit or the oil pan kit in it anyway.

My vote for the most difficult gasket to find in the motor goes to the oil pickup tube gasket... I finally gave up and used black permatex on it -- against my better judgement.

1 hour after I permatexed it spirtlimibus found that exact gasket in an oil pump kit from Carquest. No way in hell I was taking the pan back off the truck to replace that at that point...

all_terrain17

Alright, I'll just go with the RTV then. Ordered engnbldr's headgasket set which includes headbolts, and picked up a new water pump at the parts store today.

Right now both the water and oil pumps have been removed, as well as all of the timing cover bolts. I made a pretty cardboard template for the bolts. Head is still on the block, but if I keep having trouble removing the timing cover, I'll go ahead and take it off. I've got all of the hidden bolts, so I guess its just a matter of persuading it with the rubber mallet.

In the mean time I'm going back out to work with it some more. Tonight I'll be sure to post a full update with pics of my progress so far. THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR INFO.

all_terrain17

The stubborn timing cover just won't come off! Managed to loosened it near the top, but I didn't want to remove the cover at any angle; it may bend the oil pan lip.


So I moved on to trying to remove the head. Loosened all the bolts 1/4 turn according to the diagram in the Haynes book.


Then I try to remove the rocker assembly. It doesn't budge. After taking a closer look, the passenger side of the assembly is still touching the head, yet the driver side is not.


Worked with both the cover and the rocker arm assembly for at least an hour, but neither will move. Suggestions?

brendonv

Did ya remove the bolt in front of the cam gear in the small puddle of oil?



That wont help get the rocker assembly off but it will help getting the t-cover off.

all_terrain17

Yes, I got it.

vmax84

Wow, this is like watching a soap opera!! Great pics!!

vmax84

Free84Pickup

LC eng. sells a two row timing chain conversion kit.
A new cover is included. A hardware set is included.
I just ordered the hardware set by itself. I have been building a replacement 22r with junkyard parts. The used long block I got didn't have a timing chain cover, then the cover I got didn't have bolts. So I will see on Wed. what LC sends me as a 'conversion hardware set'

trythis

Well, at least your head looks pretty clean. Someone posted a picture of one that looked like it had been dunked in sandy crude oil before they took the pictures.

ovrrdrive

The passenger side of the assembly is actually on "pins" of sort that stick up on the head. We just stuck in a big screwdriver and popped it off.

But, if you don't want to you don't have to remove that from the head. I left it on mine during removal but took it off when I put it back on.

Btw, in case I forget later, loosen all of the valves up when you reinstall the head. If you don't you may get a faulty torque reading on the bolts.

By the way, I'm sure this is common sense, but you have to pop the top timing gear off the cam to pull the head. Just pop it off and yank the head with the rockers still on.

It's likely to be stuck on pretty good, so just give it a good tug and pry on whatever you think its ok to pry on. Once it breaks free it comes right off.

ovrrdrive

Btw #2, my oil pan was stuck on really tight both times I took it off. It just seems to get a really good seal with the rtv on it I guess...

There also should be a few spots between the timing cover and the head that have rtv on them too.

Between those two spots the cover gets stuck on pretty good. A rubber mallet can be your friend here...

I had to beat mine with the mallet to get it to break, then pry where I could pry and slice with my gasket scraper to get it off. Just be absolutely sure you have all the bolts out before you commit to beating and prying on it.

I take it you're not planning on pulling the pan?

Side note, did you see the pm I sent you?

spirtlanimilbus

YOU CAN ALSO REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP FUSE.......

EWAYota

On the timing cover, did you get the 3rd bolt on the back of the cover, drivers side? 2 holding the water pipe, and theres a 3rd one under those.

Bumpin' Yota

that would be my 3vz-e! lol Me thinks it was dunked 4 or 5 or 6 times...LOL

At least it cleans off fairly easily.

all_terrain17

GOOD INFO. Thats good to hear, all I could think about at work today was that rocker assembly slowly warping on the head due to the uneven stance.

And thanks to ovrrdrive of the tips for timing cover - I'll be sure to keep that in mind when I get back to work on the motor tomorrow.

EWAYota - I took note of that, and looked underneath the water pipe. I saw the hole but no bolt. I guess the last person who had it apart forgot that bolt. But thanks for the heads up, I probably wouldn't have found it without ur advice.

As for the rocker assembly, I guess I will try taping up a screwdriver and wedging it in to pop off the assembly. I considered it earlier, but was afraid those mating surfaces were delicate and crucial to the oil travel through the rocker assembly. Thanks for the advice! I'm ready to get back to work tomorrow morning!

lol, oh and in case anyone thought I was trying to pull the head with the cam sprocket on, I wasn't. You can see it's lying on the dampers in the above picture.