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22RE Head Gasket and Timing Chain Replacement PICS

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Old 06-26-2006, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by all_terrain17

lol, oh and in case anyone thought I was trying to pull the head with the cam sprocket on, I wasn't. You can see it's lying on the dampers in the above picture.

I've learned to never assume anything...

I wouldn't try to pry between the rocker arm at the seat, rather just stick a big screwdriver under it and maybe try to lift up on one of the cam bolts or something. It should pop off pretty easily.

I'm not sure if I got any pics showing the pins in the head or not... I'll check again.
Old 06-26-2006, 08:58 PM
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Wow Thanks!!!!!

Wow..I'm in AWE at the incredibly insightful & creative effort here - Just what I need to finally GET IT.....Amazed at the clean engine too. Just had mine cleaned- Not like that... I have the noisy flange leak & detonating issue uphill in the heat from timing errors....Thanks!!! This will help me communicate & understand better. HAHA - As a gal I wished the parts were color coded too.
Old 06-27-2006, 08:46 AM
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UPDATE
Success! Pulled the head and timing cover! Dissasembly aside from the timing components is done. Still think the motor is clean?


Props to ovrrdrive on giving my inexperienced effort some help with the rocker assembly removal. One problem though (If it's a problem) - One of the dowels seems to have come out with the rocker assembly. Feels like its on good, but just wanted your opinion on the matter.


Another angle of the block...

When I got the cover off I was like no wonder there was so much slack! Then reality set in and I realized it was sitting on the dampers. Yeah, I'm autistic. Timing dampers looked to be in good shape still.

As for the condition of the pistons and block, I'm thinking horrible. Good thing you convinced me to pull the head! Tell me how I should go about cleaning this mess.

Looked at the timing cover, and apparently the chain has been replaced once before, seeing as how the guides are still fine, but there's obvious wear on the cover. Replace it?


No wonder Toyota parts are so good, they're made of GOLD.
Thanks for your support and guidance, I wanted to do this to show that even an amateur mechanic like myself can do work on the 22RE with a little help from Yotatech.
Old 06-27-2006, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by all_terrain17
UPDATE
Success! Pulled the head and timing cover! Dissasembly aside from the timing components is done. Still think the motor is clean?

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...7/PICT0237.jpg
Actually, yes I do. At least on the outside. You should have seen mine. Hint, my valve cover leaked pretty severely for about 12k miles. You can just imagine...



Props to ovrrdrive on giving my inexperienced effort some help with the rocker assembly removal. One problem though (If it's a problem) - One of the dowels seems to have come out with the rocker assembly. Feels like its on good, but just wanted your opinion on the matter.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...7/PICT0234.jpg
Actually that may even supposed to have stayed with the rockers. I went looking for a pic of a head to show you the pins last night on ebay and all of the ones I saw were missing that pin too. I don't remember what mine looked like though and I didn't get any pics.

I really doesn't matter what side the pins are in on anything though. The pins are just there to help line things up when you reassemble it.


As for the condition of the pistons and block, I'm thinking horrible. Good thing you convinced me to pull the head! Tell me how I should go about cleaning this mess.

Looked at the timing cover, and apparently the chain has been replaced once before, seeing as how the guides are still fine, but there's obvious wear on the cover. Replace it?

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...7/PICT0239.jpg
I wouldn't say horrible... That's really what I would expect to see in an engine with that many miles on it. Clean what you can clean and don't worry about what you can't.

I was actually thinking that wasn't a stock top timing gear but I wasn't sure enough to say anything. As for the cover, if it isn't leaking its probably ok. Word of warning though, it only takes a tiny pinhole to ruin the job and make you go back in and do this again.

I went ahead and replaced mine after I had to go back in and then I was able to find a pinhole in it. The water pump mounts right on the other side of where those grooves are cut. If it wears too thin you end up with an oil pan full of antifreeze.

You can find one on ebay pretty cheap if you have the time to wait for it. I got one of the ITM covers shipped 2nd day for $60. The castings are really cheap though. I even had to grind on it a little to make enough room for the water pump to spin freely. But that said, its on and working fine and doesn't leak.

If you'll go get one of those wire brushes that fits in a drill from Walmart (like $4) it will make cleanup alot easier. That and a good gasket scraper and a razor scraper are about all you can use to clean stuff if you don't have access to a bead blaster. Those and some elbow grease will get'er done for sure.

Thanks for your support and guidance, I wanted to do this to show that even an amateur mechanic like myself can do work on the 22RE with a little help from Yotatech.

Glad to be of assistance. I had help when I did mine and it made it easier. I was just trying to "pay it forward" to someone else. Not only that but this thread will be very valuable to those trying it next. make sure the pics are in a secure spot so they will stay with the thread.

Btw, how the hell did you get this off without removing the oil filter?

I took the filter off and laid under the truck with every extension I had put together to get those bolts off. :pat:



Great job so far... Now the fun starts.

Be sure to clean every surface with brake cleaner and use permatex of your favorite color on every gasket. Miss one tiny detail here and you're destined to have a leak when you're done.

I used Permatex grey on the intake and other cool parts, blue on the water pump and lines, and black on the cover and oil pan. I found that the black really stuck better where there was oil involved.
Old 06-27-2006, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ovrrdrive
Btw, how the hell did you get this off without removing the oil filter?

I took the filter off and laid under the truck with every extension I had put together to get those bolts off. :pat:

When I unbolted mine, I just reached in from the front, oil filter still on with a ratchet and unbolted it. My question is, does that pipe require a gasket? When I took mine off, it didnt have one, then once I had it all back together, and started it, it started to leak. Looking at the photo, it appears to have a gasket on it, but I'm not sure.

Looking good so far. PM me when you get a chance with the timing cover bolt lengths if you could, and maybe a photo of where each of them go please.

Keep it up!
Old 06-27-2006, 10:56 AM
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[QUOTE=ovrrdrive]
Btw, how the hell did you get this off without removing the oil filter?

I took the filter off and laid under the truck with every extension I had put together to get those bolts off. :pat:



10 or 12mmwrench.

Thats the where I broke the two bolts though, and yes there is a small gasket around the neck.

btw, New timing covers go for $64 on engnblr.com (including shipping)
I'm sure that the one that you've got works just as well though.

Headed back out to the shop to clean.
Old 06-27-2006, 11:03 AM
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i was just telling all_terrain17 about that. i was confused because i bought the master rebuild kit from engn bldr and i could not find a gasket for it. notice the smashed black ring around the line on top of the flat surface. that's a smashed o ring. i went to toyota and wrestled with the parts counter guy trying to figure out where to find the part # untill a tech came out from the shop and he knew exactly what i was talking about. it is a coolant line that bolts under the lower intake and it only takes the o ring. i threw the package away with the part # but since i am going to be rebuilding my 85 soon i will go back and get another one and post the part #. it was only about a buck.
Old 06-27-2006, 11:28 AM
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do yourself a favor and ditch that fram filter and never put another one on in your life.
Old 06-27-2006, 01:35 PM
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part # for the o ring is 96711 24017.
Old 06-27-2006, 02:04 PM
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I couldn't find that gasket in any kit either...

Rather than go to the stealer and pay $10 and wait a week for it, I just took one of the gaskets in the engine kit I wasn't using and cut the ring out of it and used blue permatex on both sides of it.

Worked fine and no leaks.
Old 06-27-2006, 02:28 PM
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You could get those o-rings anywhere, I went to napa with the old one and they matched it up with one from one of those big o-ring boxes. He laughed when I said thats all I need and told me to hit the road. It cost me nothing but stressed the heck outa me when I put everything back together the first time and the flattened out stock one started leaking.
Old 06-27-2006, 02:35 PM
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now did anyone have any issues lining that pipe back up with the bottom on the manifold? First off, I had a heck of a time getting the 2 pipes on the back of the block to go where then needed and bolt up. at the current time, they're not even bolted back into the block, just laying where they need to be bolted to both ends.

Anyways, on that pipe, i had to bolt that on first, then finish sliding the manifold on the block. PITA
Old 06-27-2006, 04:00 PM
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same here, a lot of muscling. i bolted it on to the intake and then worked it on to the studs. a real pain.
Old 06-27-2006, 04:04 PM
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yeah, any o ring that's the right size will work. the dealership is around the corner from my work and it was only 1.00. i did have to wait two days for it.
Old 06-27-2006, 06:22 PM
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Just ordered engnbldr's timing cover. Ha ha shipping is gonna kill me since I've ordered all my components from them seperately, but I wasn't sure what I would need along the way. Will probably have a bit of down time since I still haven't got their timing kit I ordered a while back.

Guess till then I'll be scraping gaskets and cleaning. It will be alright to rotate the engine to clean each of the pistons, right?

Thanks again to everyone who helped me with the tear down, I'll be sure to update when parts start coming in from California.

EWAYota - PM Sent
Old 06-28-2006, 06:27 AM
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Cleaning parts. I used this floor degreaser stuff called Citrussol.
Its what My mechanic friend said they use at there shop at midas.

Spray it on, let it sit for a few min, rub it with a paint brush to agitate wait a few more min and rinse off.


it even removed all the carbon for the pistons.



Hopefully you dont have the same problem I did. (replace timming chain, head and exhaust) only to devolop a bottom end knock 4 months later.

Last edited by 4Hummer; 06-28-2006 at 06:34 AM.
Old 06-28-2006, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 4Hummer
Cleaning parts. I used this floor degreaser stuff called Citrussol.
Its what My mechanic friend said they use at there shop at midas.

Spray it on, let it sit for a few min, rub it with a paint brush to agitate wait a few more min and rinse off.


it even removed all the carbon for the pistons.

http://www.mudrunner.ca/engine/head/head9.jpg

Hopefully you dont have the same problem I did. (replace timming chain, head and exhaust) only to devolop a bottom end knock 4 months later.

Dude that stuff works awesome! I'll have to get some when I see it.

That sucks about the knock. That's one of my worst fears. I'll hold my breath.

Btw, I couldn't help noticing you also have a fram filter there... Think there's a correlation?


Last edited by ovrrdrive; 06-28-2006 at 08:05 AM.
Old 06-28-2006, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ovrrdrive
Dude that stuff works awesome! I'll have to get some when I see it.

That sucks about the knock. That's one of my worst fears. I'll hold my breath.

Btw, I couldn't help noticing you also have a fram filter there... Think there's a correlation?

COULD BE....... Wont be using that brand again....
Old 06-28-2006, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ovrrdrive
Dude that stuff works awesome! I'll have to get some when I see it.

That sucks about the knock. That's one of my worst fears. I'll hold my breath.

Btw, I couldn't help noticing you also have a fram filter there... Think there's a correlation?


Isnt that the fram tough guard, the one and only fram found to be somewhat ok? Purolator Pure 1 for me though! hehe
Old 06-29-2006, 06:21 PM
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Alright, according to the tracking #, the timing set should be here tomorrow. Been cleaning the head with scour pads, an old scraper, and some brake cleaner.

Before:


After cleaning on intake side


and on the exhaust side...


Just exactly how clean should gasket surfaces be? They're smooth to the touch, but you can still see the outline of the old headgasket on the head. It's stained on there or something. Someone please enlighten me.

Been looking for those 3m pads on Bumpin'Yota's 3.0 thread to clean the block and piston tops...maybe finished cleaning by the time I find them though.

Other parts I've picked up...


and


Everyone happy now? Can't wait to get the parts I need and get back to wrenching. I'll be sure to update when I get something done.

Last edited by all_terrain17; 06-29-2006 at 07:17 PM.


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