thedrewski86

Good idea! I'll do that.

Your truck is looking awesome by the way...

WHAHAHAJR

Thanks

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Are you inserting the timing check jumper when setting the timing?
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

thedrewski86

4crawler, no I did not. I wasn't aware of that, glad to know it! So i just jump those two terminals with a little bit of wire and set my timing? What exactly is this doing?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

It is telling the ECU you are trying to adjust the base timing. Basically it turns off all the automatic timing advance, sort of like disconnecting the vacuum hose on the older vacuum advance distributors. Or without the jumper, you set the timing to about 12* BTDC as the ECU adds about 7* timing advance w/o the jumper installed.

thedrewski86

Oh sweet, that would explain why it ran better around 12*! I set it at 10* because I thought that was better. I'll put it at 12* and call it good.

thedrewski86

So I took my truck for a spin around the neighborhood tonight. I've driven maybe three miles since I assembled everything. How long should this thing be smoking? I expected a bit of white smoke as it is burning up some of the coolant left in the engine, but it's starting to nag me.

After 100 miles or so I'm going to flush the radiator and do an oil change to get rid of all the crap (and reset valves, torque down all my bolts again, etc...), will this continue until then?

Good news is it is running better than it ever has for me and it is quiet as can be.

WHAHAHAJR

You need to get all the coolant out of the cat so it could take a while.

thedrewski86

That's a relief to hear. It's also nice to know I don't have an exhaust leak around my cat! I couldn't figure out why I was getting smoke around there.

thedrewski86

I think I found the source of the whistling sound on my engine.



I stripped the threads on this during assembly (the ONLY damage I made to the truck!) and of course I stripped the threads in the aluminum intake manifold and not the steel bolt. I was hoping the one bolt would be sufficient and I could leave this one hand tight holding on by a thread but I guess not. I took the truck out at highway speed for the first time this morning and my check engine light came on, hopefully because of this valve leaking.

So I assume I have to tap new threads to go up a size unless someone else has an ingenious idea I need to hear about. I'm obviously not happy about cutting into the intake manifold but I need those threads to catch so I don't know what else to do.

toyospearo

It's possible the threads are not completely toast. Run a tap through it a few times see if that will refresh the threads.

WHAHAHAJR

That's too funny. I left the exact same thing loose on mine causing a whistling and what I thought was cam lope.

Not the stripped bolt whole. Sorry about that.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yep, had that one back out on mine as well. What you might also try is using a slightly longer bolt of the same dia. to catch some threads deeper in the hole along with running a tap in and out of the hole a few times.

WHAHAHAJR

Helicoil time.

thedrewski86

Wow, so the last reply I got was from toyospearo and I did what he suggested. Worked perfectly and then I went ahead and tried the longer bolt like 4crawler suggested! Great minds....

Whaha, I actually got a sweet 60 piece kit from Menards for next to nothing! I could either get a tap and handle for $15 or the whole kit with taps, dies and everything for $26. That was easy!

So, I got that tight and no more whistling... my check engine light is still on. Anyone have a link for how to scan for codes? I've never done it as I haven't had this truck very long. I didn't see a how-to in my Chilton.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

thedrewski86

Ah yes, the exact same link you sent me a couple days ago...
Thanks!

thedrewski86

So I "scanned" my truck this morning (easiest thing in the world!) and I got a code 25 AIR/FUEL RATIO LEAN INDICATOR--LEAN SIGNAL SENT TO ECU FROM O2 SENSOR.

I have rebuilt injectors and a new fuel filter. I put on new iridium plugs and the PO had just put on a new distributor cap and wires (they look brand new).

So I'm looking at o2 sensor and map sensor right? What testing do I need to do on these?

By the way, I am assuming it's still okay to drive this thing around right? It runs fine. Only issue I'm having with it now is I can't get the idle at an even 750. It wants 500 or 950, no in between!

shakes_24

that could be from that bolt sucking air.... clear the codes amd see what happens.. The O2 picked up a lean condition because unmeasured air was entering the intake

kirkerik

hey there Drewski,

Did you get the light to go off? I have the same code and was just wondering what the problem and solution was for you.

Nice write up by the way...
Kirk