BMarino

Hi everybody.


My truck's a 1994 xtra-cab, 4wd, 4-cyl, manual. 244k miles.


Seems I'm up for the oh-so-feared task of the 22RE headgasket replacement, but I'd appreciate any confirmation from you guys/gals. Here's the symptoms:


- A few months ago, I started noticing that coolant in the reservoir kept "disappearing", no matter how many times I refilled it. It would probably last about a 100 km drive before being totally gone. However, no heating issues whatsoever.

- When last I made an oil change (about 1 month ago), I noticed NOTHING amiss, no white residue on oil cap, used oil looked ok, just darkened as all used oil looks.

- About two months ago, a 71 check engine code sprang up. Having read it's nothing serious, I have just monitored it as I haven't had time to tackle that issue with the EGR system. Exhaust fumes bad smell has been the only nuisance.


BUT TODAY, after starting up the truck, it idled in a strange, rough way as never before, and after a short drive, during which the rough idle disappeared, I noticed a different, really pungent, markedly DIFFERENT smell as never before from the exhaust fumes, distinguishable from the 71 code EGR problem. NO WHITE SMOKE WHATSOEVER from the tailpipe.


When I got home, I turned off the engine, popped up the hood, and A LOT OF STEAMING HEAT/AIR was coming out from the overflow cap at the coolant reservoir, with a real bad smell. I let it cool, and afterwards, and fearing the worse, I unscrewed the oil cap, and this turned out:







So, shoot it out: am I finally facing the dreaded head gasket failure expected at some point on a high mileage 22-RE ?



Thanks!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yes no maybe and probably..

Given the proximity of the fresh air intake(tube from air cleaner box thru grill) and the expansion tank, it's really easy to suck wet air into the system via the PCV inlet.

It's plausible to suck air into a minor leak in a heater line with a faulty radiator cap during the cool down cycle.

You need to check the spark plugs and combustion chamber for signs of water intrusion. This is typically seen as discoloration or steam cleaned parts.

Check compression, coolant system leak test, pump air into the combustion chamber.

A HG job (in the vehicle) isn't that bad, the worst part is convincing a machinist to let you borrow a straight edge to check for warpage.

akwheeler

My go to test in your situation is to fill the radiator and pressure test the cooling system, as mentioned by Co 94. If your pressure is dropping rapidly keep pumping the pressure back up (most of the gauges on the testers show a red bar starting around 15 psi) after enough times doing that with the engine shut off you will either find coolant on the ground or on the floor boards in the cab (heater core) or in one or more cylinders, or it will be in the bottom of the oil pan.
If it looses pressure slowly pump it back up every few minutes (or hours) and come back to check later.
if there is nothing on the ground or floorboards pull the sparkplugs and turn the engine over with a wrench while looking for fluid to come out of the spark plug holes, or crank with the starter if you are into water shows, just pull the ignition fuse or otherwise disable the spark first so you don't start a fire, the fuel injectors will still fire!
If you still don't see the water pull your drain plug after it has sat for an hour or two, all the water will settle to the bottom of the pan and you should see it when you first pop the plug.
visual inspection of the plugs is often a good indicator, but not as definitive as finding water pouring out.
A compression test will sometimes still pass with a bad head gasket (I got fooled once).
Let us know what you find!

snippits

stiffler4444

My 86 with 190K miles just did the white smoke show on my way home last weekend, so I'm probably in the same boat, but will exhaust (sorry for the pun) all other scenarios before diving in. Any particular head / intake gasket recommended? Prices are all over the map, but I'd prefer to spend more and not do it twice!

tx Dave

snippits

New complete Enginetech cylinder head, Enginetech head bolts, and a Toyota head gasket installed August 2017. I used a Fel-Pro lower intake gasket because it has the rubber sealing beads around the ports. All those parts worked for me, so I do recommend them. I did a timing kit at the same time as the head gasket, and it's a job I don't want to do over any time soon.

stiffler4444

Did my combustion/block test. Not the intake, head or gasket. I'm thinking I've got a bad valve.

snippits

Are you sure the lower intake is not leaking, and it's leaking coolant into the intake ports, and then going out the exhaust? That will definitely cause the coolant to disappear, stinky exhaust, running hot when coolant gets too low, and misfires.

akwheeler

A bad valve will not leak coolant.
The block test will not rule out an intake leak.
This is why I recommended a cooling system pressure test. A block test will only detect exhaust gases in the coolant so it will only tell you if there is a crack in the head or block or a bad head gasket and will not show positive 100% of the time.

BMarino

All right.

So almost two months have passed, and finally a time window is approaching so I'll be calmly tackling this issue. Sorry for such a late response.

As I currently live in a rural location in Mexico, I have NO access to a compression test kit, nor any mechanics nearby handle that type of tools. I'm confident however, my truck's 22re is in good shape, as it was running perfect before identifying there was coolant mixed with the engine oil (as described in the first post). And I'm confident I didn't drive it much after the HG blew (supposing it did). In fact I haven't moved the truck since the day I started this thread.

I also have no way to do a cooling system pressure test. Is there actually a way to do it without specialized tools?


So anyway, I'll open her up and we'll see what we'll find. Oh and by the way, I'll also be replacing the timing chain as precaution.


Parts I ordered from LCEPerformance:

- Head Gasket Set (including HG and other gaskets, intake and exhaust manifold, etc.)
- Timing Chain Kit (with metal guides)
- New head bolts
- Heater tube O-ring
- Timing Chain Cover Gasket Set (with front crankshaft seal, oil pump ring seal, water pump gasket, etc.)
- Water Pump
- Distributor shaft O-ring
- Distributor cap O-ring
- Toyota Seal Packing for a FIPG (oil pan)


I think I got all needed parts covered (did a thorough search on forums and think that would be all that is needed). Am I missing something?



.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

If you can have parts delivered from LCE you can have tools and test equipment delivered from other online sources..

So after sitting for all this time what did the drained oil look like?

How do you plan to assess the engine block and head for flat and true?

ev13wt

If the head and block are flat, the headgasket is a one, max two day job with beer.

Order all the coolant hoses. More so the ones under the intake.

stiffler4444

Ya turned out mine was burning oil. Never had a coolant issue just smoke.

BMarino

Rightly so. I ordered also a Lisle Compression Tester. Finally got all items a few days ago and just did the engine compression test, that's why I delayed my reply to until now.


This resulted from the compression test (cold engine, couldn't start it to warm it up, does crank):


Dry test: (1) 90 psi, (2) 120 psi, (3) 120 psi, (4) 125 psi
Wet test: (1) 100 psi, (2) 140 psi, (3) 142 psi, (4) 145 psi



I take this is a confirmation of the head gasket having failed. Any thoughts?


Haven't drained the oil, but last monday I drove the truck less than 5 km around, began to slightly overheat and NOW white smoke did commence to emerge from the exhaust, along with a distinct pungently sweet odor.

Checked the oil thereafter in the gauge stick, looked completely normal. Oil cap is still showing the white spot underneath.


Thanks for any feedback!

akwheeler

All these indications point to the head gasket leaking around cylinder #1, not BLOWN, but not far from it. when you tear it down watch out for pitting on either the cylinder head or the block. Check VERY closely for cracks also. make sure you check the head and block for warping as well with a TRUE straight edge (precision machined especially for this type of inspection) or take the head to a machine shop for a thorough inspection, maybe even have the valve stem seals replaced while you have the head out. Do not mix up the valve lash adjustment pucks and keep all rockers and cam bearing caps in order.

scope103

Those compression numbers could be a mis-seated valve, or one that's just too "tight." But the escaping steam and evidence of water in the oil would be enough for me to remove the head. I haven't heard of too many 22re heads with cracks, but you always have to check for that (and flatness).

Leaking valve stems seals can be a cause of oil in the exhaust, but shouldn't have anything to do with coolant. Still, once you have the head off, it would be a good idea to have the valves ground, and at that point there is no point to keeping the old seals.

Even without the machine shop, you can replace the valve stem seals your self. You either need a fancy valve spring compressor, or a drill press and my "special tool."

Valve Spring Compressor tool

Valve spring tool in use

BMarino

Definitely, will check myself or (if I can't get my hands on a straight edge) a machine shop check for head warpage. Thanks for all the advice!




That would be great, but at this point, I just wanna get it up and running as before, which was fine with no issues whatsoever. If at all, I will probably adjust valve clearances before firing her up again!