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Does anyone know where I can find this wire with the “plate” to replace the fusible link on my 86 22re?
Alternatively, I found this thread, in which people are mentioning deleting the fusible link and replacing it with 4 gauge wire. If I go this route, do I remove that plate entirely, splice eyelets onto a 4ga wire and bolt it down to the 80a fuse? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-228307/
Last edited by yota_terror; Oct 27, 2019 at 02:55 PM.
It looks like the wire with the plate seems to be unavailable.
This fusible link appears to be 8 or 12 gauge. This resource states that the fusible link should be 4 wire gauges smaller than the wire it’s protecting. If that’s the case, I should have a 4 or 8 gauge wire coming from the battery to the fusible link? Seems like a very thick wire.
Additionally since the assembly with the plate seems to be unavailable, and I’m wanting to *replace* the fusible link wire entirely, could I cut the bottom of the plate of, put together a fusible link + wire to battery, and bolt it to the plate with an eyelet?
Last edited by yota_terror; Oct 31, 2019 at 03:01 PM.
Why wouldn't you just reuse the plate by opening up the crimps?
The crimp which is actually holding it secure is closest to the plate. I don't know, it seems like it'd be pretty difficult to achieve as strong of a crimp if I were to try to reuse this.
The crimp which is actually holding it secure is closest to the plate. I don't know, it seems like it'd be pretty difficult to achieve as strong of a crimp if I were to try to reuse this.
That second crimp is supposed to be cinching the sheath, not the wire, you can see where it used to be attached but something has caused the sheath/insulation to be pulled away.
If you're concerned about that crimp, what makes you think you can do it with a ring terminal? You might not have the tools and/or experience for this job. I'd suggest you do some research and get a few practice runs in using the crimper tool and these kinds of connections regardless of what you wind up doing. Sit down with some short bits of wire the crimps and a crimper and have a go at a few first, like anything you don't do on a daily basis it will make a big improvement on the quality.
My main positive to battery wire from the plate crimp corroded through a few months ago. I used a new slightly fatter wire and ring connector to one of the screws to bypass the crimp. Seems to be working fine.
Is your ring connector fix still working? What gage wire did you use?
Would a butt splice connector to the original white wire be better than a completely new wire from the battery to the plate?
Last edited by runner luv'rr; Nov 25, 2023 at 01:03 PM.
I've seen that fuse wire repaired with a butt connector. Personally I'd feel better about replacing the whole length of fuse wire with new. If you're careful you can open that splice on the plate and crimp a new wire in, with a new ring terminal on the other end.
So I got the fusable link figured out so the truck has electric. Dashboard lights are on and Now the truck does not want to start. With the key in the ignition turning the key in the ignition the truck just clicks, clicks, and clicks. I put the jumper cables on to my tacoma thinking that the Altenator needs to be charged up as well and nothing so far.
A problem well-stated is a problem solved.
Exactly what clicks?
The circuit opening relay behind the glove box?
The starter relay in right -rear corner of the engine compartment near wiper motor?
The starter solenoid piggy-backed on the starter motor? Does the starter solenoid clunck energetically or weakly?
Oct 27, 2019 | 02:52 PM
