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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

22re Engine will not stay runing

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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 02:59 PM
  #1  
tlpcolorado's Avatar
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From: Colorado
22re Engine will not stay runing

Bought a 86 4runner that had been sitting for 2 years just could not pass up the price, Replaced the fuel pump and filter fresh fuel got it to start and stalls checked all the relays and they checked out, can hear the pump working with the key in start. Acts like no fuel after inital start? Don,t know if ECM or something else? I know that EFI system is designed to stop without oil pressure or signal from alternater ,should start there or go to ECM. Thanks for any input.
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 11:10 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
You did check the circuit open relay (fuel pump relay) and it was definitely fine? Then, possibly, the fuel pump switch in the airflow meter has gone out. Check out this link about 1/3 of the way down the page:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 07:59 AM
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thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by tlpcolorado
Bought a 86 4runner that had been sitting for 2 years just could not pass up the price, Replaced the fuel pump and filter fresh fuel got it to start and stalls checked all the relays and they checked out, can hear the pump working with the key in start. Acts like no fuel after inital start? Don,t know if ECM or something else? I know that EFI system is designed to stop without oil pressure or signal from alternater ,should start there or go to ECM. Thanks for any input.
Wait a minute.......you can hear the fuel pump running? Is this with the key to ignition and motor not running? How long does the pump run with the key to ignition? It should only run for a couple of seconds in this situation. So, if you turn the key and the pump only runs for a few seconds then quits, that's normal. It's not indicative of "no fuel after initial start up".......if that's what you're wondering.

Therefore, jump the fuel pump tests connector illustrated in the link I posted and see if will start and stay running. If not, what razed said could be the problem.

Last edited by thook; Sep 21, 2010 at 08:02 AM.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:00 AM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Pouble dost.......

Last edited by thook; Sep 21, 2010 at 08:01 AM.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
Wait a minute.......you can hear the fuel pump running? Is this with the key to ignition and motor not running? How long does the pump run with the key to ignition? It should only run for a couple of seconds in this situation. So, if you turn the key and the pump only runs for a few seconds then quits, that's normal. It's not indicative of "no fuel after initial start up".......if that's what you're wondering.

Therefore, jump the fuel pump tests connector illustrated in the link I posted and see if will start and stay running. If not, what razed said could be the problem.
According to the wiring schematic the fuel pump only comes on when the air flow meter sees air moving. The pump only comes on when cranking and when running.

I would check your COR relay and your AFM. Do like Thook said and jumper to eliminate your pump.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by Flash319
According to the wiring schematic the fuel pump only comes on when the air flow meter sees air moving. The pump only comes on when cranking and when running.

I would check your COR relay and your AFM. Do like Thook said and jumper to eliminate your pump.
The pump runs for a few seconds to restablish pressure in the rail....initially. But, I guess that's only when the key is in STA position and not IG? My bad. I guess I'll have to go over the materials again to be sure. Thanks for pointing that out, flash.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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From: Raleigh, NC
My 88 was like that when I first bought it. It would start for a split second and stall. It would do that until I could get it running long enough for the engine to warm (aprox five min of trying to start it with immediate stalling). It was the coolant sensor; I replaced it and all was well.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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check to see if the flappper inside the afm is stuck
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 08:27 PM
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From: Colorado
Ok quick update, afm is ok tests out perfect. can turn key to start without depressing clutch and hear fuel pump. Removed all old gas and put in new. re-checked both relays and they check out. Just ordered new injectors, Fuel is pumped into fuel rail and cold start injector but does not seem to be getting into motor, i am down to injectors or ecu?
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Well, after sitting for two years? Could be the injectors. Are you saying the cold start injector is pumping fuel into the manifold? As in, it's definitely working? IF so, seems that would be clogged if the injectors were. But, who the hell knows. Pull the ECU cover and see if maybe the ECU's corroded at all. If not, then you can run a resistance or voltage test on the drivers. Then again, you could test for voltage at the injectors just as easily.....if not easier. Noid light works, in that case.
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