ToyBoy05

I just replaced the head with a loaded port/polished, big valves, big cam, the timing chain was done right before I got the truck, the only thing I didn't replace was the rockers, could that be the noise, sounds like valves tapping?? I haven't taken the valve cover off yet to see what's up but it's going to piss me off if something is up with the valves, I also seem to have intermitten power, when I first start it it seems strong and then after it warms up I lose a lot of power most of the time, but sometimes it feels really strong I have replaced so much ลลลล I am out of ideas, HELP PLEASE ANYONE!!!

shredder

Sounds like your valves need readjusting,
Pull your valve cover and check it out ...

ToyBoy05

Do you do the valves the same way as a Chev 350? just loosen them till they start tapping then tighten them down between a half turn and full turn??

PirateFins

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...nce/2maint.pdf
page MA-11 is the FSM method.

Make sure also you don't have the valve cover to tight, if you do the top of the rocker arms will slap the cover.

MMA_Alex

make sure to do it warm. a bunch of people like to put em tighter cause they tend to make a lot of noise. theres a thread kicking around the last couple of days with a couple peoples recomendations. If you do a search you will also find a bunch of different opinions. i found that .011, and .007 warm work a little better personally, but a lot of people like to run em even tighter than that

ovrrdrive

Dude, do yourself a favor and don't ever run a 22re with the valve cover off. Trust me...

We cranked mine up for about 3 seconds and it sprayed half a quart of oil all over everything. I think it was slinging off the timing chain or something. Who knows, couldn't see.

The valves can be rough adjusted cold to .001 less than the hot setting with relative accuracy. But its still a good idea to check them again after it is warmed up.

I have a Crane Cam and from the factory Crane recommends .008 intake/.010 exhaust which is just a little tighter on the exhaust than the factory recommended .012. I set them to .007/.009 cold, then checked it again hot to .008/.010 and only one valve needed a minor adjustment.

You have to set them with feeler gauges because there is no way you can feel the differences down to a .001 of an inch. Just set them to a really tight drag on the feeler gauge and be done with it.

At .008/.010 my valves don't tick at all. It's nice and smooth...


Valves sound like the problem to me too. Especially if you don't know how to adjust them.

Did you have the head done locally or did you buy it that way from someone?

From who if you don't mind me asking?

ToyBoy05

I bought the head fully put together off ebay and had it put on by a local performance shop, I had a blown hg so stuff had to be cleaned up and re-surfaced, but the shop said everything looked fine after that, I recently bought a new pacesetter header w/ O2 pipe so that I could hook my egr back up cause I heard that could be a lot of the problem, I also replaced the O2 sensor and it ran 100 percent better, I then ran some premium gas and injector cleaner and it is running soooooooooo good right now, I am so happy:bigclap: The motor does have 180 thousand on it though so I think I might try running that injector cleaner again and maybe some seafoam, I'll probly check the valve clearance too just to make sure, thanks for the help guys