Hey yota tech, new to all of this made this account because I need help in the worst way lol. I have a 1990 Toyota pickup 4WD with the 22RE. I’ve had it for about a year now, it’s always ran super great for the most part never had any trouble with it. The other day I went to start it but it wouldn’t fire up. It will crank forever but never fire up. When the key is on the check engine light and battery light doesn’t come on like it used to. So far I have replaced the ignition switch and even tried another ECU. Still nothing. All my fuses are good I’ve checked all of them, the only way I can get it to start is if I put a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil and it will start right up but die when I disconnect the wire. I’m new to all of this so any help will be appreciated!!

Could be an open in IG2 of the ignition switch. http://web.archive.org/web/201204170.../2powersou.pdf
Using your multimeter (no multimeter? No excuse for that! https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-63759.html) check both sides of the IGN fuse (the top of the fuse has a pair of metal tabs for just this purpose) for voltage to ground. With key-on, you should get battery on each side (if you get it on one side only, the fuse is open). If you get no voltage on either side, check pin 7 of the connector to the Ignition switch (should be a B-R wire) with key-on.

Thank you for the reply! Tested both side of the ign. Fuse and got nothing and poked the B-R wire like you said and got nothing as well

So what does that tell you? I assume you checked the B-R wire AT the ignition switch (otherwise, it could just be a broken wire and your new ignition switch was just a waste of money). Before you condemn the new switch, at least check the W-R wire on pin 8. W-R, of course, is always-on, so if you don't get voltage to ground there you're very close to the problem.

Just checked the W-R wire and no power on the 8th pin. The only wires with power are the all white and the blue with the white tracer, so that would be the 4th pin and the 6th pin that only show power, even with key on

You said you checked "all" the fuses, but did you check the 30-amp AM2 fuse? The fuse boxes change subtly year-to-year, but a 30-amp fuse looks like this:

I've never removed one, but I am told (here) that they are bolted in; don't try to just pull on them.

Yes, the part of the fuse block they are in is removable. It's how you get to the big "fuses", or, as Toyota calls them, fusible links. It's also where the fusible link from the battery, and the one from the alternator, enter the fuse block. The overly fat, white wires.
It's been a while since I pulled it, but IIRC, it has a bolt, or two, that connect it to the side of the truck, and a single 'press to release' catch. You can easily see it when you look down at that part of the fuse block. The two nuts are 10 MM, and you pull them, release the catch, and that part of the fuse block lifts up and out far eenough to flip it on it's side, and get to all the connections on the underside.
While you have it out, make sure you check for corrosion. That stuff is insidious, and can cause all kinds of odd problems. Check the ground connections in the engine compartment while you're there. You might be surprized.

Good luck, and have fun!
​​​​​​​Pat☺

Thanks for the info fellas, just got off work now gonna dig into that and see what I find. I’m sure hoping it’s something as easy as that sounds, it’s been almost two weeks now and is driving me crazy, just weird to me the last time I drove it it ran perfect and spent half the day driving it and made it home and I to my garage and parked it with no issues

You may be able to tell if the fuse is open by looking through the clear top. But you could easily have a more subtle issue, which you will deftly solve by tracing with your multimeter. I suspect that removing the under-hood fuse-block is in your future.

Okay I just checked that fuse, it looks good, even took the fuse box out and looked underneath for anything loose or corroded and everything looked good, it’s honestly really clean in there. I do have a multi meter, just bought one the other day for this, what exactly am I looking for with the multi meter? I’m sorry I’m so new this, never messed with this stuff or this tool before

It sounds like you know what you're doing (there isn't too much to this).

All you're doing is looking for voltage (to ground) as you work your way back from the ignition switch. (You're not looking for power, that's something different.) You don't have voltage on the W-R wire feeding into the ignition switch, so the next stop on the way back to the battery is (probably) the AM2 fuse. You don't really care how clean it is (incredibly filthy conductors can still carry power), you just want to see if there is a connection back to the battery. So you want to check for voltage to ground at the input to the AM2 fuse. We know the battery is (mostly) good because you can crank the starter, so at some point you're going to find a broken connection.