tyes

clutch slipping after "lo-lo-4wd" with my 2.28x4.70 dual case.. happens all the time. just yesterday had to use lo-lo 4wd and it worked as planned. only thing, when i drove off in 2wd, i cant accelerate. i can only slowly accelerate and the truck barely goes. if i try to step on it, i feel it slipping, when engine reving up but not going anywhere.. if i drive it the way it is, over time its back to normal. if i dont drive it and let it sit, it also goes back to normal. this happens all time now and only after "lo-lo-4wd".˟

brand new ˟Autozone clutch / pressure plate / flywheel / throw out bearing / master clutch cylinder.˟

86 runner 22re w56 2.28x4.70 dual case.

92dlxman

that is insanely weird. i would start by checking torque on all the bellhousing bolts. after that. . . . . tear it apart again?

weak pressure plate? loose plate/flywheel bolts? stumped

tyes

dude im stump as well. everything was install legit. it rans like a champ on and off road. its just this lo lo 4wd issue that is tearing me apart. eveything install was done as to spec and everything put in is all new. im thinking the clutch is too weak for this lo lo 4wd. but then again, i have 7 buddies that has no issue with their stock clutch on lo lo 4wd... thanks for the response..

tyes

btw, i assume it was all part of breaking in the new parts, but its been installed now for over 4 months. and i do drive it every other day around town without any issues. never slip on me while driving 2wd or 4wd. only time is rite after lo lo 4wd...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It could very well be your driving. because it seems to work normal at other times.

You are getting the clutch disc hot when it cools down so far your good to go.

Then before to long you will get to the point that it just slips

How do you drive when you are in low low ??

Put it in gear and never touch the clutch or ride the clutch all the time??:jessica:

tyes

driving should be okay. i think it has nothing to do with that. but please do educate if necessary..

but anyhow, i'll put in lo lo 4wd and leave it there with no gas or clutch.. i let it do the work and just steer. when im to the point where i NO longer need it. its back to hi (crawl box), hi 4wd, 1st gear and gas as normal. and still, same issue. i try not to gas it on lo lo, or press the clutch while on lo lo. i just pull it out of gear and break and switch to hi 4wd...

92dlxman

i just cant picture it. when its working normally does it engage real smooth? no hot spots/glazing on the flywheel?

i hate to bring stuff like this up but with your super-low reductions you are aware that clutch-in and coasting when in a low gear it is very easy to exceed the clutches rpm capacity and damage it, right?

sorry but im kindof at a loss here and diggin pretty deep

tyes

its a new clutch and fly wheel. and when i do drive it there is no symptoms of a slipping or failure of any kind. this only happens rite after. driving in lo-lo-4wd is not the problem. everything works with the dual case and crawl box and or gears as plan. what i can not explain is the drive rite after the lo-lo-4wd. its slips like hell, and not a 1st gear but all the gears up to 5th gear. i have to slowly step on the gas, but anything more of normal driving at that moment will slip and slip.. i am completely clueless and totally loss.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Now the way you explain it it might be a transmission problem.

Are you getting the unbearable odor of burnt clutch yes or no??

If you are not it is either in one of the cases or tranny :jessica:

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Well a slipping clutch has a unique Oder and if its not stinking up the place something is wrong. It sounds like it got really, really hot.

I'm thinking you have a stock 900lbs pressure plate. it may be new, but that does not make it correct for your application. I think whats happening is the low gears have so much back torque they are slipping the clutch against the engine brake. (ecu zero fuel delivery).

What I would do is pull the clutch again; this sux I know, Its a ten hour job. And look for glazing on the disk, flywheel and pressure plate. If its there and I bet it is; sand it with 220 grit and go buy a clutch setup from Marlin Crawler or Centerforce.

See this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...clutch-147792/




http://www.centerforce.com/products/...2c---and---van

most of the time you fix one weak link which leads to another... weak link.

Which is why you have that burning smell from you wallet.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I'm with Sky. An autozone clutch may not even be 900lbs. I would look into Marlin 1200 Aisin replacement. There is a reason Marlin offers the higher rated clutch kits, and better quality than you can get from chain stores. They have a lot of experience with double reduction cases and the forces they apply to various drivetrain components...

tyes

okay, so here is the plan then, keep the PP&FW and get a HD 1200 lbs clutch ONLY from MC. now should i get the PP&FW resurface? of just install?

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I would get the full kit. The pressure plate is where the gripping force comes from. Granted, the disc needs the proper material, but without a strong pp, it's kinda pointless... Just my opinion...