RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

The time has finally come. My poor little 22re that sucks a quart of oil between fillups at the gas station is being replaced. I scored a 22r block and here's what's going on with it:

Cylinders are being rehoned, not bored
Crank is only being polished, it's in good shape too
Standard ENGBLDR pistons
Moly rings
Standard bearings
Reworked, stock head
ENGBLDR gaskets
New seals, bearings, gaskets, all around
New timing chain w/ steel guide
Probably reuse oil pump, it's in good shape

I know this sucker will need to be broken in, but I'm not sure how to do it. I have heard that letting it warm up a bit and then running it at high cylinder head pressure (like floored at 3000rpm up a long hill) will seat the rings really well.

I'd really like some advice from folks who have experience with this. I read an online article about that sort of break-in process, but it was mainly focused toward Honda motorcycle engines.

Thanks guys!

19RUNNER86

like you said that it for a honda motorcycle. standard driving should be good. dont beat on it for around 5k miles. after that you should be in the clear.... also use dino oil for the first 5~10k miles. after that you can use synthetic if you like.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I just drove mine normal, nothing abusive, around town and then changed the oil out at 500 miles and 1000 miles and switched to synthetic at about 2500 miles. I only used the dino for the first two to save money.

I just realized yesterday that my F350 7.3L takes 15 qts...almost 4 gallons to change the freaking oil.

MMA_Alex

some people recomend taking it easy, and some people recomend beating on it. its really up to you. I would recomend skipping the synthetic oil for the first couple thousand miles to help the rings properly set.

dcg9381

Ask Ted.. He's the expert.
Use dino oil (non-synthetic). How hard you drive it is up to you, but I generally keep it below 4000 RPM for the first 500 miles. You want to vary throttle position and RPM to seat the rings.
Change the oil after running it for a few minutes once started, and then change it again at 500 miles.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Okay, all of this advice is meshing pretty well with what I have heard before. Sounds like:

Start it up and let it run for a little while - maybe 15 minutes?
Change the oil
Run it with varying rpm and throttle positions, change oil at 500 miles

Then the differing opinions are on whether to run it hard or take it easy on it. More opinions?

BTW, who is Ted?

19RUNNER86

you dont wanna run it hard. your breaking it in not breaking again...

dcg9381

Ted = engnbldr

Th3duke

When i rebuilt my 22RE, the only thing that I did for the break-in was ensure that the oil pump had good lubrication (I personnaly used vaseline and assembly lube), and the cam lobes were also well lubricated with a thick coat of assembly lube. Ran her for about 20 minutes at about 25 hundred rpms to break in before I put her under any load. I ran good old Valvoline for the first 2000 KM, and then changed to synthetic after that. For the first 2000 km, I didn't push it more then 3 thousand rpms. after the first 2000 KM I would run it up to 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 and never had any problems.

G/L

toyotaoffroad91

drive it normally but no reall hard accelerations,

dcg9381

Packing the oil pump is a good point. I've seen them not prime when they're not packed and that can make all your work for not if you don't pay attention.. Pre-first start up, pull the plugs and turn it over until the oil idiot light goes out OR you get a slight indication of pressure on your gauge.

Personally, I wouldn't switch to synthetic for several thousand miles (not KM). That ensures that the rings should seat.

InternetRoadkill

Pack the oil pump with vasoline and follow the cam break-in procedure. After that, change the oil after the first 500 miles and you're good to go. It's probably not a good idea to race the engine until after the first oil change.

I've seen some recommendations of adding GM's EOS additive to the oil to help with the break-in process. It's supposed to offer added protection against scuffing the new parts.