fork

I just tested my 88.5 (89 model year) 22re's air flow meter per 4crawler's instructions [ http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml ] and got some strange readings on the E2-Vs circuit. Closed it's at ~229 ohms, but going from closed to fully open it goes all over the place and throws some values over 1700 ohms (max being 1000 ohms). All the other tests were within tolerances except this. I opened it up to look inside and the black strip the feeler rides on has some very fine grooves in it where the feelers ride on it.

SO is this enough to deem it bad and spend a lot on another?

some history here.. ever since I bought/fixed this vehicle and swapped it to a manual it's been running way leaner than I would like it to be. I can't find any obvious vacuum leaks and according to my in-cab vacuum gauge which is coming off of the plenum, it usually sits around 15 inHg or so at idle with no shaking. it does get me about 20 miles/gallon though, i just don't like the severe lack of power and crispy plugs. i would like to get this thing dialed in one day.

some other info
-new properly adjusted TPS
-engnbldr 261 cam
-head resurfaced, but the cam was not degreed..
-last compression test was about 178 +- 3psi between all holes
-timing at 8 degrees btdc, shorted
-valve lash at 0.007/0.009 in/ex respectively
-i did NOT swap the ECU from the 5spd donor truck. still has the auto ECU inside, I assumed that wouldnt be a problem but if it is i might be able to get it. whether its still good is a different story

fork

nothing? well, I talked to someone today about it and he said it's likely gone, but said it might be possible that my readings were garbage because I was using a cheap digital multimeter. Is this possible? I know I was able to adjust my TPS within spec with the same multimeter and that's a similar kind linear resistance measurement from what I've read. I'm pretty close to pulling the plug and sourcing another afm at this point...

I do have an AFM from my '87 4runner. the flapper doesn't move, but the internals may or may not be good, I haven't checked yet. in the event that they are good, is a gut swap possible? or is that too risky and/or not worth it?

fork

STILL nothing? damn..

in other news I dug a little deeper with a can of carb cleaner and found a vac leak on the under side of the intake elbow. where on earth do I buy a new one of these besides the stealership? I can't seem to find a new one anywhere, just used ones with potentially the same problem :| anyway I gooped on some red rtv and duct tape, hopefully it's enough to seal it up and get me to/from work until I can find a replacement. I did my best to make sure none got on the inside of the elbow... i definitely don't want any of that getting sucked down into anything important.

also verified all the vac hoses were routed properly and in good shape.

still hoping someone with experience with these AFM's replies and lets me know that it indeed needs to be replaced or that my digital multimeter is just a POS and the AFM might be fine

snobdds

I think your first step is to use a decent multi meter. There only 25 bucks, a lot cheaper than a new AFM.

Then you know at least what your dealing with.

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

I had issues with my AFM on a 22RE as well. I was fortunate enough to get a really good deal on an 84 Celica Supra AFM and just swapped the circuit board from my old one to the Supra one. There is a little desoldering/resoldering needed on a couple connections for the plug but it was nothing major if you are confident in your ablilty to solder.
My vote is that your AFM is out of calibration and should be replaced. I'm not sure (have never heard) of the auto and manual ones being different.
All that aside, I have a used one from a late 88 pickup that had the 5 speed/22RE that I could checkout for you and sell you very reasonably.
Also, the intake tube you speak of leaking is it the elbow that comes off the throttle body? If so I can look and see if I have that one as well if you are interested.

Hope this helps!

xylicon

The readings you get while opening the vane will fluctuate up and down like wave, it states that in the FSM, check it out.

Buck87

If you are near San Jose you can come over and install my spare AFM and see if it helps. If you like it I'll make you a deal, if not then you know that something else is the problem.
Fix the vacuum leak!

fork

It is one of those $25 craftsman ones. It's served me well for a long time with other things so I don't think it's the multimeter anymore since its adjusted multiple TPS's properly amongst a ton of other things. The person who told me that suggested I find a Fluke, but I'm not made of money like he is.


I'm interested, lmk


I understand they fluctuate, but I got readings well out of spec range

I'm about 2500 miles from SJ... lol, thanks though.

the RTV layers + duct tape fixed the vacuum leak at the elbow. I haven't found any other leaks, and it did seem to make a marginal improvement. On a side note something strange did happen while I was inspecting the vacuum lines. I disconnected the 3 VSV's harnesses on top of the valve cover just to move the wires out of the way to get a better view. When I started the truck back up it took a lot of cranking and started up like it hadn't been started for 10 years. I'm not sure how disconnecting 3 VSV's caused this.

fork

Update! I decided to stop by Toyota to get a key made and decided to get price quotes. over $1000 for a new AFM. No bs. the intake elbow was about $160 too. lol

Vang530

If its reading out of spec then go to the junkyard and find one there. Mine was showing over 1000ohms in certain spots as well.
I got one out of a early 90s 22re pickup that plugged right in for only $35. FYI mines an '85 but they are all pretty much the same for a 22re that is. Just make sure you test it out before you buy of course.
For what its worth it didn't make a single difference to my truck after I changed it out lol. Still felt the same.

Buck87

^^^
Similar story for me at the Toyota specialty full service junk yard. $150.00 used. $250 rebuilt. Did not help. My mistake was reading my ohm meter incorrectly on the original; so now I have a spare collecting dust.

fork

based on the above posts i'm going to hold off on buying another AFM for the time being and instead check out my fuel pressure and o2 sensor. that's really just about all I have left that I can check easily. beyond that i can only assume the cam not being degree'd with the head having been resurfaced is a source of trouble. i'm tempted to stick in new injectors from 22reperformance.com. anyone familiar with these guys?

Buck87

22re performance.com has a very good reputation. Have you called him? He was very helpful when I was shopping for a motor.

Vang530

I live about 30 minutes from their shop. Almost all the 22RE's driving around their town are built from them lol. Very helpful, but can sometimes be a little hard to reach on the phone since they are so busy.

fork

I haven't talked to him, but now that I think back I'm pretty sure I got some tappets from that site. I can't remember back that far. I think new injectors will be going in at some point though since I neglected to clean these when I did everything else and can't afford to put the vehicle down long enough to send them off now since it gets me to/from work. Just ordered a fuel pressure gauge from LCE to sit on my cold start injector.

fork

So, I just poked my o2 sensor with a multimeter and got a consistent 0.09v at idle and nothing higher than 0.25v with varying throttle positions. Now if it is showing that, wouldn't the computer try to compensate with more fuel to try to richen it up? I haven't gotten around to installing the fuel pressure gauge yet, but it's on the agenda for the weekend.

another note, there's a 180*F tstat in it. I could throw in a 190*F if that has anything to do with the lean nonsense, but I can't see why it would...

edit: further tinkering is also telling me that the aux air valve is in need of attention. if i'm not mistaken, the engine should die when the idle air screw is completely in, right? .. It's not dying. drops to about 500rpm but won't die. But this shouldn't contribute to the lean condition as that's metered air? If I don't get this thing ironed out in the near future it's likely to see a carburetor

myyota

You can find a new intake elbow at www.rockauto.com or www.partstrain.com , there about $26.00 dollars.

For the AFM check your local wrecking yards.

If you end up replacing the 02 sensor get a Denso 02 sensor. DO NOT buy a Bosch 02 sensor, they don`t work in toyotas, many here have tried to use them in there toyotas with out much luck.

fork

Another update.. I installed the LCE fuel pressure gauge and am getting a consistent 35psi at idle, and stays above that for a long time after turning it off so that doesn't seem to be an issue

edit: denso o2 sensor on the way just to rule it out and because I have no idea how old the one on there is.

Hadmatt54

What's the part # on your existing AFM...I might have one kicking around and it worked the very best on my 89 4Runner. I'll do some resistance checks and see if it is within spec!

thook

This.....the highlighted.... is a little confusing, but regardless....

If it's max'ing out over 1000 ohms, I'd call it bad. Did the meter reading ever drop out to 0 ohms along the range?

Before you go swapping in a bunch of parts to correct the problem that might be due to the AFM, take up the offer to "borrow" one from one of these gentlemen on the board. Compare the readings, too. That way you know what a good one looks/acts like on the meter.