Cookie Monster

Hey guys!

Ive done my fair share of searching, and reading, and im pretty sure ive got a solid plan, but i wanted to run it by the critics before i attempt it.

I have a 87 22R with ~100k kms (60k miles) on it, and i am planning to install a EB 261 cam in it. I just installed a new Weber 32/36 on it, LCE header, and have removed all the emissions stuff.

My plan is as follows:
-Drain Coolant
-Pull Spark plugs
-Take off valve cover ( And stuff attached to it)
-Use ratchet straps to keep tension on the head (Tips from Ted)
-Find TDC on Cylinder #1 (Was wondering if i should return my timing to the "0" mark before changing the cam)
-Remove distrubutor
-Remove fuel pump
-Pull off timing gear (Wrap hay wire around it and bungee cord it to the hood to keep it from moving/skipping a tooth)
-Loosen the "hidden" bolt at the front of the motor
-Loosen the head bolts holding the rocker in place in the correct sequence, in small 1/4-1/2 turn increments to start with (Loosening the "hidden" bolt as i go)
-Keep track of which head bolts went where.
-Remove rockers **GENTLY**
-Replace 4 head bolts with washers as spacers **GENTLY** to hold the head in place
-Pull of cam retainer bolts (Not really sure on the proper terminology )
-Pull out old cam
-Inspect everything for wear, and clean everything thouroghly.
-Put new cam in (In the same position as the old one was removed with plenty of assembly grease, cam should be in the ~12 o'clock position i think)
-Replace retainers in the same order, and facing the same way they came out (Cleaned, lubed, torqued to spec)
-Remove headbolts with spacers **GENTLY**
-Replace Rockers **GENTLY**
-Re-install head bolts in the correct order, and in the same holes they came out of. (Cleaned thoroughly, lubed, torqued to spec. I suppose replacement head bolts would have been the best choice)
-Ensure the cam is moving freely (Smooth, and no binding)
-Install Timing sprocket onto cam
-Install Distributor (In the same #1 Firing position)
-Install Fuel Pump
-Set valve spacing to the spec specified with the cam.
-Install Valve Cover (And stuff attatched)
-Fill Coolant
-Install Plugs
-Start and run for a few minutes with absolutely no issues whatsoever (Hopefully)listening for anything that sounds too terrible, and turn off
-Check Coolant for Oil
-Check Oil for Coolant
-Remove valve cover (Agaaaaaiiinnnn)
-Recheck valve spacing (With semi hot motor, hopefully not buring myself)
-Reinstall valve cover (Aggggggaaaaaaiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnn)
-Begin cam break in process (Lots of various opinions on how to do this)
-And lastly...

If i missed *ANYTHING* feel free to chime in!

I will probably spend some quality time playing with the jets, timing, and tuning my carb after the cam install. i even contemplated getting one of the air/fuel ratio kits on ebay for ~$200, for epic precision tuning (Anyone had experience with them? Worth it?)

If all goes well, i will try and take some pictures as im doing it and add them later so this can be used as a guide to someone else thinking of attempting this sketchy operation

millball

I think you nailed it when you called it a 'sketchy operation'.

Why in the world would you even consider doing this???

Likelihood of subsequent headgasket failure is high.

You are 99% there. Clean the block deck and head surface, put on a new gasket and you've done it right.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I think you will be fine to the coolant pours out of the head.

Once the pressure is off the gasket it is comprised .

Then after all it is your project.

Cookie Monster

Well thanks for the vote of confidence guys...

I know this can, and has been done successfully before.

millball

Just because something can be done, does'nt mean that it should be done.

What do you hope to gain when a comprehensive repair job is so very little more effort???

Yoursfalsely

Replace your rockers while your at it so you garuntee even cam wear

Cookie Monster

Well, just got back from swapping the cam. Everything on the valve cover looked really good, there was no signs of wear (Or extremely minimal amounts). Everything went off without a hitch, and more importantly went back together without a hitch.

Im pretty broke ass and this is a bit of a crunch for time (I dont have my own shop, i have to use the company shop when its available)

I have my old motor that came in the truck originally that i have in my "engine room" (Corner of the living room) on a stand cleaned, and ready to strip down, pending money for a rebuild kit, and machining costs.

I know this is the quick and dirty way to go, but thats kinda how i roll...

I did take extra care, and followed my plan and it seems to have worked (For now) I guess time will tell if it holds up (I plan to retorque the headbolts, and recheck the valve spacing after 100kms (Put 25 mins into break in, and drove it about 30kms home). I didnt smell any oil, or coolant being burnt in the exhaust after the break in. I also didnt hear any tapping from the valves, or pinging after i reset the timing.

I know most (Or all) of you in the thread disapprove of my methods, but at the very least wish me luck...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I do wish you luck perhaps you have good luck it would have leaked for me.

Like it did when a friend tried the same thing.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have seen it done before with success. Just keep an eye on it for awhile and see if it stayed together. Wishing you the best of luck.

Cookie Monster

Haha thanks guys, i will defiently keep a really close eye on the oil/coolant, and change my oil in about 500km (It has fresh oil now, but i want to get all the assembly greese, and whatever else has come off the cam after its been in there for a little bit.

Thanks guys, i took a couple pictures, but sorta forgot to take any when the project got exciting (Rockers came off)

I also had a question about timing!
I am running a weber 32/36 and LCE headers, i understand that the weber likes to run with the timing advanced a bit. But how far can i go? I know to listen for pinging and idle quality while setting timing but im curious how far you can safely go? (I just recently got a timing light, always done it by ear/temp)

Badger62811

Hope it works for you. If it doesn't, your "broke ass" might be up a creek.

I do some things that aren't recommended but after having to replace one HG and now another, that's not a risk I would take. If your HG hasn't failed it's nothing to slap a new one on there. Plus, fsm recommends using new head bolts because they stretch. I dunno man. To each his own.

Keep us posted.

Ol'Greeny

As far as timing goes.. I have a 20r22r hybrid and weber carb as well. Stock timing wasn't an option. I had to do a lot of playing with it to find the best timing. It's pretty far advanced..
When I first did it it was set to far and had spark knock, so I just kept retarding it until there was no pinging and it runs great.

Cookie Monster

Well so far so good!

Ive put some time in driving it, and also started messing with the jets. I live at pretty high altitude (~3000ft above sea level). So far ive concluded that my first attempt at re-jetting by reading the plugs was a fail Went from running a little lean (Judging from the plugs being white after running it below 2k rpm on the "idle circuit" for a little while) to running way to rich... Small steps remember

On a lighter note, there is no scent of coolant in the exhaust, no oil anywhere in the coolant, no weird vibrations, knocking, pinging, or screaming and yelling so far. The plugs are all dry.

I set the timing by ear and feel as i usually would, and then checked where i wound up at with the timing light, it was dialed in right in between the two 12* notches... Its running at the same temp as it always has, again no pinging or misfiring so i will see how that goes.

Blackulua

Ive done this 2 times on the same head gasket all i did was to make sure the engine is cold to drain and don't distort the head on block gasket and torque to spec settings.I guess that I have been lucky to do it with no problems

Cookie Monster

Glad to hear a success story! Makes me feel a little better after all the Debbie downers haha j/k

How many miles have you put on since you did it, and what kinda shape was your motor in? (Mileage, other mods, rebuilt? Ect)

Mr.Utah

After milling the head and cam replacement, I would recommend degreeing the cam timing. This will give you optimal power and help avoid the blown head gasket in the future.

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

Its too late now but I asked engbldr Ted about this not too long ago and he said when he does it, he uses ratchet straps to keep pressure on the head when the bolts are removed. Said he hasn't had any issues doing it that way.

aztoyman

I've done it exactly how you did it on two trucks. Not mine but for a couple other "Broke Ass" people. Still running.

Badger62811

Im glad it's working well. A story of success.

However, it's like taking an amazing shower and putting your 4 day old crusty underwear back on. For some people that might be ok. But this guy? Nah. Not this guy.

Odin

Glad you hade succes with it. I have a feeling that my cam & rockers need replaced.

After dealing with reused head bolts in other engines I would've installed new ones. The ratchet straps sound like a good idea.