ashamsuddin

So I have the draining float bowl problem, and found a thread in which several did rebuilds of the carb that didn't fix the problem, implicating the carb itself as the culprit. Add to that the fact that I really don't want to rebuild my carb (not a skill I'll ever use again), and I've decided to just buy and install a replacement. They have Chinese ones on Ebay for less than $100! But the cheapest I see them through normal channels is $300+. Has anyone tried one of those Chinese deals?

nordicwargod

Did you open up the carb and look into the bowl? If the power valve is bad/stuck open either because its bad or a bunch of crap is keeping it from closing. I just did my carb and from what I remember that is the only way gas can get out of the bowl due to a leak with gravity. I'm assembling it tomorrow and I'll look again.

AKHeathen

it's draining while sitting? new float needle/seat should fix that.

nordicwargod

Duh!!! I feel stupid, you didn't say whether it stank like gas and was draining into the engine or on the manifold. I assumed it did but you should never ASSUME. Yeah, it may be a real simple needle valve replacement.

ashamsuddin

So I took off the top part of the carb, cleaned out the passages, cleaned up the gunk in the bowl, and replace a part labeled "power valve" in the bottom of the bowl. I got that and a new gasket from a carb rebuild kit I have used pieces out of, including both diaphragms. After I got everything put back together and connected (except the air cleaner) the truck will start but won't idle. What could have caused that?
Could I have hurt something with the compressed air I was using?

Update - it is also still slowly losing fuel from the bowl.

nordicwargod

How much gunk was in the bowl? And did you plug in the fuel cut solenoid? [harness]
Where does the gas go? Into the manifold or "just disappear"?

ashamsuddin

I'd say some black sludge about the size of a popcorn kernel was found in the bowl.

I never unplugged the harness (just flipped the top over). And I'm pretty sure that its going to the manifold because if I try to start it after letting it sit just a couple hours, it seems to be hard to start because of flooding (have to remove air cleaner lid to get it to go).
Also, just to be sure, the long metal rod coming down from the top of the car goes through the black tube, right?

nordicwargod

Popcorn kernel? So was there a bunch on the bottom of the bowl?
Sounds like you may need to remove and do a thorough cleaning, I don't know. You also have to test the power valve before you put it in.
Lets see, the long metal rod going in the top of the carB [I think you mean] would be the secondary metering rod that goes in the secondary jet. It lifts up when throttle position is high letting fuel go into the secondary. And the black tube is the metering rod guide so yes it goes through that.
A lot of this is speculation/educated guesses on what you have written. I just rebuilt my carb and I spent a lot of time reading and looking at the service manual figuring out what each part of it does. I guess we will see if I did it right when I start it up soon.
These carbs are more complicated than a motorcraft two barrel but not as hard as a Holly 4 barrel. [my opinion]
Put a new fuel filter on when you get it together

AKHeathen

i wouldn't assume. if it is leaking down into the manifold, it will pop-off rightaway then go to dead cranking till it clears out. if it leaks back into the fuel line, it will simply be dead cranking till fuel gets to the bowl. the no-idle is also a common issue with the float needle, since it will flood out at idle because if it leacks down, it will also leak when it's supposed to close, overfilling. don't discount the value of learning how a carb works and cleaning/repairing it. unless you don't do any other mechanical work, it's principals can transfer over to other functions of the vehicle as well. honestly, putting a carb on a 22re is the best thing you can do for cheap power. that's how i have my lowridder, and it does 114 in 4th, with 2x the butt dyno power of the fuel injection setup.

ashamsuddin

I tested the fuel cut solenoid and heard the click. This was fine before I opened the carb so I doubt the internal parts went bad.

From a cold start, I left it at the high rpms till it warmed up. As soon as I tapped the gas to lower the rpms, it stalled, but this time, it would sputter, almost die, then come to life for a second. It did that a few times then died. Still wouldn't idle for more than a couple seconds.

I plugged the vacuum line going to the egr valve and that made no difference. Again, this didn't seem to cause any problems before so I dont see why removing and replacing the air horn would change it at all.

The only component inside the carb that I changed was the power valve. I'm going to go back in and change the needle valve and seat, but that's not likely the cause of the idle problem, is it?

nordicwargod

This is an interesting observation/experience/been there, done that.....
Read the part about no-idle! If the needle valve isn't closing it will overfill and flood at idle and drain slowly when turned off.
The next step I would do [and I remind you I'm not a pro] is remove your float and entire needle valve assembly. Make sure no gas is in the bowl and that its spotless inside it. Crank over the engine till the bowl fills a little and look for debris/crud coming in. It should happen quickly. It could be quite small but just big enough to keep that little rubber tip on the valve from working. Remove and clean the whole needle valve assembly before you put it back in.
If you have crap in your fuel line, even a little with a bad or non-existent filter you will probably have some recurring carb problems.
I can't even find my filter. I'm thinking its above my fuel tank under the bed so for all practical purposes its unserviceable. I also had crud in my bowl. I'm going to add a small clear filter between my fuel pump and carb.

AKHeathen

filter should be going into the carb, iirc

nordicwargod

Is the filter the little strainer in the needle valve seat assembly?
If its the only filter then its not enough. I guess I was lucky mine went 130k without any fuel issues but there was quite a bit of crud in my bowl.

ashamsuddin

I've changed the fuel filter twice in the 7 years I've owned the truck - just as a precaution. It's under the bed but is a pain to get to and work with.

I will replace the needle valve and check the float operation today - Also I guess the slow jet could be clogged with the stuff I loosened in there? If those two things don't work, I might opt for buying a completely new carb on Ebay for $150. My intention is to sell the truck in the next year or so anyway.

AKHeathen

the needle and seat, plus cleaning should be expected periodically, like 100k the needle tip should dry up and maybe cause a problem. if it's not the problem, go ahead and replace the carb. it's easier than learning to rebuild and tune if you don't have experience.

ashamsuddin

So I replaced the needle and seat, cleared the jets, and put everything back together (minus one of the five air horn screws which I dropped somewhere in the engine compartment) - same result. Won't idle.

I tried spraying around the base of the carb with starter fluid, and this time, I heard definite increase in rpms. I did this after the first time this happened, but didn't notice any change. So at least I have one more thing to check before I give up. I wonder if it was just the fumes entering the top of the carb from all the spraying I was doing, though.
I visually inspected everything, but tonight I'll actually remove each line and replace as necessary. I'll also start from scratch on the idle mixture screw, and see if that helps.

nordicwargod

Does the bowl still drain after some time? Will it high-idle-? Not sure if you have more than one thing going on.
Two tricks I have learned on this forum:
1. Propane torch is needed for this. Turn on the gas but don't ignite it and point it around the base of carb, vacuum lines, intake, and see if rpm's increase. Little more precise than spraying carb cleaner. You may have a large vacuum leak!
2 vacuum gauge should be used all the time when engine is running. If rpm's are high but vacuum is low then you have a leak.
Not sure if you have one? This may help you diagnose.
If you remove the carb and do a complete cleaning and rebuild and it still won't work then your ebay carb may be the answer.
In my area on craigslist there are people selling carbs all the time for $50 or so. Many times less. They may work or they may not. Same gamble as ebay if you want my opinion.
Good luck

ashamsuddin

It high-idles with no problem - Just did the needle and seat last night, so I'll check the float level today.

What's a good place/port to check the vacuum while it's high-idling? How many PSI am I looking for?

By the way, here's the carb I'm planning to buy - seems to have everything I need, and besides, I'm planning to sell the truck in the next year or so (family wants a back seat and AC!) - how dare they. Plus, this way, I'll always still have my stock carb laying around to tinker with or give to the new owner.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Toyota-22R-Carburetor-Carb-Assembly-Engine-Part-21100-35520-NEW-Replacement-/371421127074?hash=item567a6ca1a2&vxp=mtr

AKHeathen

Put the air cleaner on to eliminate it from sucking in the fumes when you spray. I don't recall how much vacuum it should have but should be in the manual. You want any port direct to the manifold. Have you reset the idle mixture screw back to factory settings? That will usually get it going, then you tune to highest idle, turn the idle down some if it's 100rmp or more too high, and 1/4 turn lean. Do this on a hot engine, and without vacuum leaks.

ashamsuddin

So after putting the air cleaner on, the truck would baaaaaarely idle at about 500 rpm. I re-sprayed around for vacuum leaks and found none. Reset my idle mixture screw to factory settings, and had to turn my idle screw to bring idle up to 700 rpm, and all seems to be good now, except the fuel still draining out of the bowl overnight - I guess I can live with that.

Thanks for sticking with me and my noobish ways.