22r missing and popping
Jun 8, 2022 | 08:36 PM
#21
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When the distributor is all the way to one end of the slot or the other, something's off a ways. Did you set the timing with a timing light, according to the FSM, or just guesstimating?
As far as the surging goes, is the idle set right? It should be about 800 or so. If it's much above 1000, you can get surging when the brake pedal is pressed.
The valves are set with with the # 1 piston at TDC, compression. Then # 4 at TDC, compression.
Just turn the crank until the #1 piston tops out, determined by a straw in the through the spark plug hole. The timing mark on the crank should be at the 0 mark. Both rockers of the #1 valve, intake of #2, and exhaust of #3, will be off the cams on the camshaft. You'll be able to feel them move up and down off the cam. .008" intake, .012" exhaust, checked with a feeler gauge. If the valve lifters are NOT off the cams, with the pistons topped out, give the crank one full turn, again using the straw to check TDC, and check them again. Then turn the crank 1 full turn, and set the rest of the valves. Same method. Since it's much easier to turn the crank with the plugs out anyway, the straw method is a handy, quick, easy, way to see TDC, that won't damage anything is it jams up somehow.
If the #1 cylinder is at TDC, compression, as seen with the straw and the valve lifters, but the timing marks are NOT lined up at 0, the chain or the cam shaft are not aligned correctly. OR the harmonic balancer has slipped. The rubber in it can get old, and brittle, and break, so the two halves separate, and rotate in relation to one another. If the distributor rotor is not pointed to 10 o'clock with the #1 lifters off the cam, the distributor is off a tooth, or more.
The 22R timing should be set to 0°, with both vacuum lines off the distributor.
Does that rambling help at all?
Pat☺
As far as the surging goes, is the idle set right? It should be about 800 or so. If it's much above 1000, you can get surging when the brake pedal is pressed.
The valves are set with with the # 1 piston at TDC, compression. Then # 4 at TDC, compression.
Just turn the crank until the #1 piston tops out, determined by a straw in the through the spark plug hole. The timing mark on the crank should be at the 0 mark. Both rockers of the #1 valve, intake of #2, and exhaust of #3, will be off the cams on the camshaft. You'll be able to feel them move up and down off the cam. .008" intake, .012" exhaust, checked with a feeler gauge. If the valve lifters are NOT off the cams, with the pistons topped out, give the crank one full turn, again using the straw to check TDC, and check them again. Then turn the crank 1 full turn, and set the rest of the valves. Same method. Since it's much easier to turn the crank with the plugs out anyway, the straw method is a handy, quick, easy, way to see TDC, that won't damage anything is it jams up somehow.
If the #1 cylinder is at TDC, compression, as seen with the straw and the valve lifters, but the timing marks are NOT lined up at 0, the chain or the cam shaft are not aligned correctly. OR the harmonic balancer has slipped. The rubber in it can get old, and brittle, and break, so the two halves separate, and rotate in relation to one another. If the distributor rotor is not pointed to 10 o'clock with the #1 lifters off the cam, the distributor is off a tooth, or more.
The 22R timing should be set to 0°, with both vacuum lines off the distributor.
Does that rambling help at all?
Pat☺
Last edited by JustTobin; Jun 8, 2022 at 08:37 PM.
Jun 9, 2022 | 01:20 PM
#22
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Definitely do a manual smog test. That way you don’t get tagged as a gross-polluter in the database. But if your timing is full advanced and the distributer is maxed out I think you’re better off addressing that first. Almost everything else you could conceivably adjust is going to revolve around proper timing already being dialed in.
Does it look like the head or timing cover was pulled recently?
You have two realistic possibilities. One is the head was pulled and they got the timing chain off a tooth. Or two, they reinstalled the distributer and it’s off a tooth. The distributer scenario is obviously the easier one to remedy.
Does it look like the head or timing cover was pulled recently?
You have two realistic possibilities. One is the head was pulled and they got the timing chain off a tooth. Or two, they reinstalled the distributer and it’s off a tooth. The distributer scenario is obviously the easier one to remedy.
Last edited by Jimkola; Jun 9, 2022 at 01:27 PM.
Jun 10, 2022 | 04:58 PM
#23
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Definitely do a manual smog test. That way you don’t get tagged as a gross-polluter in the database. But if your timing is full advanced and the distributer is maxed out I think you’re better off addressing that first. Almost everything else you could conceivably adjust is going to revolve around proper timing already being dialed in.
Does it look like the head or timing cover was pulled recently?
You have two realistic possibilities. One is the head was pulled and they got the timing chain off a tooth. Or two, they reinstalled the distributer and it’s off a tooth. The distributer scenario is obviously the easier one to remedy.
Does it look like the head or timing cover was pulled recently?
You have two realistic possibilities. One is the head was pulled and they got the timing chain off a tooth. Or two, they reinstalled the distributer and it’s off a tooth. The distributer scenario is obviously the easier one to remedy.
Jun 10, 2022 | 05:17 PM
#24
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Well, good on the smog tech. If they had run a real test you’d be up a creek. Getting tagged as a gross-polluter is a gigantic p.I.t.a.
Get the #1 cylinder at tdc and the pull the distributer cap and see if the rotor is pointing directly at the #1 pole on the cap. If it’s 180 degrees off then rotate the engine one complete rotation. If it’s off to one side of the pole then unbolt the distributor and lift up enough where you can rotate the shaft in the direction needed. Then reset and check. You might have to do this a few times to get it right.
Checking the chain is more work. Alignment of the chain has to do with the key slot on the crankshaft being straight up 12:00, then checking the mark on the chain at the cam sprocket. Off the top of my head this would involve pulling the valve cover(pretty easy) and the crankshaft pulley bolt(not as easy.)
maybe others here have a cool way to check that, or have other thoughts on what to inspect. My gut feeling is someone tried to fix something and it went south.
if you don’t have a factory manual I do recommend one. Bentley Co also made a great manual, just not sure on what years they covered on the 22r series. Chilton and Haynes aren’t very useful as a rule.
Get the #1 cylinder at tdc and the pull the distributer cap and see if the rotor is pointing directly at the #1 pole on the cap. If it’s 180 degrees off then rotate the engine one complete rotation. If it’s off to one side of the pole then unbolt the distributor and lift up enough where you can rotate the shaft in the direction needed. Then reset and check. You might have to do this a few times to get it right.
Checking the chain is more work. Alignment of the chain has to do with the key slot on the crankshaft being straight up 12:00, then checking the mark on the chain at the cam sprocket. Off the top of my head this would involve pulling the valve cover(pretty easy) and the crankshaft pulley bolt(not as easy.)
maybe others here have a cool way to check that, or have other thoughts on what to inspect. My gut feeling is someone tried to fix something and it went south.
if you don’t have a factory manual I do recommend one. Bentley Co also made a great manual, just not sure on what years they covered on the 22r series. Chilton and Haynes aren’t very useful as a rule.
Last edited by Jimkola; Jun 12, 2022 at 12:43 PM.
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