Mdumaw

So i recently picked up a 1986 22r-te. it was to replace my last pickup which was claimed by my housefire just over a month ago. and i was kinda weary when getting this one. but decided to. so it didn't run strong to begin with then once home got hot quick. so i shut it off and it didn't want to start. which started me into my first time working on a yota. (closest thing being my previous geo prizm, corolla motor)






so last night i decided it was a good time to start. my papa is letting me use his shop



And yes cushmans are as fun as they look!!





And before i star i figure i should plan out some storage space....

oh wait my pickups got one of these!

But this just wont do!!!

ah thats better now to start.


Are all the valve covers on the 22r-te labeled 22re?


so i start with taking the intake tubing off, and i find oil inside??




now im inexperienced at this... my imediate though is, turbo??

anyways next i took the exhaust manifold off, and the nuts got stuck and decided to pull out the studs on the turbo side.. wd40!
and this gives me a chance to replace the gasket from the header to the turbo. it had a pretty bad leak there, as in 90% of exhaust exiting there.


next onto intake manifold, after hours of marking things, thinking about things, and remembering things, i got it off with a confident feeling of being able to remember everything.




theres coolant in all of them

Next the valve cover? sure that'll do!


Oh ya did i mention its been rebuilt before?
my uncle josh whos a mechanic thinks the rebuild was a sorry one though... well as at this time last night i almost fell asleep everytime i stopped to think, i called it a night!

Mdumaw

Well for day 2 i guess i accomplished some... not as many pics. but i got the rest of the intake manifold off, fuel rail, rocker arm assembly, all the other goodies, and eventually this:

then i cleaned it up enough not to dirty whatever car i bring it into spokane in.



and i learned something... the P.O. told me that this:


Was bored 20 over. but as far as this


says this:


was bored 50 over???
im not a proffesional, or even good at this. but i thought i read somewhere


that these were only supposed to be bored 40 over...? i would like some insight on why they shouldnt go over that and what could potentially happen since they did.
and since we found this out, me and my mechanic uncle josh (who was helping me tonight) decided thet we might pull the timing chain so we can turn the engine over to inspect the ??Weaker than non bored cylinder walls???? for cracks...

and in this case im just gonna go the extra mi... step, and clean everything and maybe get some pretty paint, and make it look nice.

Thanks guys More to come hopefully TOMORROW!!

Mdumaw

took my head into cylinder head service in spokane today. the guy checked it out, it was ever so slightly warped, had no seal whatsoever in middle 2 exhaust valves, very bad seal in outer 2, and very bad seal in all except one intake valve. he said he would straighten it out resurface, do all that fun stuff, and make it like new for around 100-150. should be done tomorrow or monday. then getting some felpro gaskets, new 2.5" exhaust piping. and building my own exhaust! i heard the ct26 turbos like 2.5" so thats what im gonna do!!!
Any sugestions, concerns questions???

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

off topic but any chance you have an "extra" t stat housing for the turbo engine? looking for one for my non turbo, so I can hook up an aftermarket temp sender.

sorry to hijack!

Hadmatt54

Did the machine shop spray your head with penetrating dye to check for cracks?
These heads because of the larger 83cc. combustion chambers are prone to cracking, expecially on #4. My head was cracked between the intake and exhaust ports on #4. I think where it is on the back of the engine it may run hotter than the other cylinders (fartherst away from the cooling components) That is just a theory, I have no proof and I've never read anything on it, but the problem with these engines always seems to be #4.

swampfox

My 86 turbo cracked inside the #2 exhaust port,which caused it to ruin the replacement turbo.

Mdumaw

i do not... but my uncle josh recently rebuilt i believe a 22r-te might have been an re, i'll ask!

you know, he didn't while i was there. there was nothing that i saw and i did look pretty hard. not saying it should be noticeable to the human eye, but i wouldnt know first time ive worked on the engine side of any rig. but i'm going to call in the morning and ask him to! thank you very much!!

How did it ruin the turbo, like specifically, sorry i'm just worried about mine being ruined....

And any help on how i could test whether the turbo is still good would be greatly appreciated!!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

thanks!!

swampfox

My replacement turbo was damaged from the antifreeze being in the exhaust housing of the turbo. From what I was told it caused the housing to crack prematurely.The company also said it damaged some other parts ,but it has been to many years for me to remember the details.

Mdumaw

i found lots of antifreeze in my exhaust housting, should i take the turbo off and search for cracks or would i be able to even find them??

now im worried...

you know any particular way to check?

Hadmatt54

Check out the following link. My CT20 was cracked and as a result it was a boat anchor.
Post #10 shows where these turbos are prone to cracking.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161.../#post51740260

Mdumaw

ok cool, well if there usually that noticeable, i'll just pop mine off and check it real quick. thanks guys

jeetS

fyi you can get aftermarket exhaust housings for these ct-20's


also check out this forum theres tons of info on these trucks
http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...orum/index.php

Hadmatt54

I don't want to hijack your thread Mdumaw, but I've got to ask the question!
Hey jeetS, I'm not in the market for one, but who makes these housings?

Mdumaw

hey cool thanks i see myself spending a little time on there!

quick question though. what size exhaust would you guys suggest for the ct-26? my uncle said they like 2.5, but i would like to hear from you guys too.
(i would just search 22rte-trucks but im pressed for time at the moment.)

Mdumaw

ok. i got everything back together, it all looked good. but when i put the head on the timing chain got slack in it. not sure if it messed up the timing on the bottom, but the top looked good. so i went to start it and it would pop a little as i rotated the distributer a little. so i'm not sure what it is, im figuring it is the timing, but i dont know.

help please?

Mdumaw

ok so i'm heading up to the shop today to try a few more things, and see what i can figure out, any tips/help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys.

edit: ok so i may not have adjusted the valves.... didn't even think about it, so im going to do that tomorrow and see how things go.

Hadmatt54

These engines don't free wheel so if your valve timing is off you will bend valves. From what you have described it sounds like it rotates freely so the problem is probably your ignition timing. If it's still popping it's firing with an exhaust valve open. Check your distributor you're probably out 180 degrees.

Mdumaw

well i had the engine at top dead center and the cam gear with lobe up as the haynes manual showed, and the distributor cap the same way it was shown. my uncle josh is coming up today to first check over all of my timing, and then to adjust the valves into specs.

Mdumaw

I got it running!! and it runs perfectly except for the fact i dont know where the t and e-1 plugs are or how to short them to adjust siming perfectly. any help?